My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys , I have a question for those of you who have experience with the HH120'S. I have one and the ignition module that is above the flywheel is bad . I have been toying with putting another engine on it but I just cant pull the trigger on doing that. If I convert to the automotive ignition what other parts on the HH120 give trouble? The reason for considering another engine is the replacement cost of the ignition part which is 169 bucks. What are ya'lls thoughts and opinions? By the way this is on a sears suburban,just don't tell anyone I am here asking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,115 Posts
I just finished converting an hh120 to a Ford Dura-Spark ignition. I've taken pictures of the entire process including the "make it yourself" pickup that was not satisfactory and the various methods of mounting the Ford pickup. I had stated on another thread I would post these pictures about two weeks ago but the project continued longer than anticipated.

The cost of parts ran just under $100.00 not including various wiring supplies, grommets, clamps and other miscellaneous small parts I had on hand. This price may be low for some as I enjoy a good discount at the local parts store thru the farm. List price would be something around $145.00.

Getting this to work has been a bit of an adventure. The existing pins on the flywheel did not trigger the Dura-Spark pickup reliably and they were not positioned where they needed to be height wise or for proper timing. I did quite a lot of experimentation with various trigger shapes and heights as well as timing before finding what works well. The Dura-Spark module has a built in ten degree retard when starting that works well and makes the cranking a lot easier. Lots of fire using a standard internally ballasted coil and a Kohler capacitor. Hurts like anything to get zapped by it.

It took quite a bit of time to get things sorted out and I would guess doing another one would take between ten and fifteen hours of shop work. I needed gas and arc welders, drill press, taps and dies and standard hand tools for this job. Would I do it again? No.

Considering what hh120 parts are selling for now and what I could have boughten a Honda clone from Harbor Freight for there is no way I would go thru the process again. With the hh120 running well I'll use it till it needs further repair. If the starter/generator dies again, it chucks a rod or anything of that nature happens it's history.

I know there are a few people that don't like the Chinese engines and all that and I respect their right to make their choices. Mine would be to spend the bucks involved and have a new engine with electric start and alternator all built in.

I'm not real excited about posting the conversion after having done it. Lot's of trouble making this conversion for the small savings and questionable return.

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I have two of the tecumseh motors, The first one I bought a used SSI off e-bay (70$) it was junk. got ****** and just bought a new one(185$) bolted it on and it runs perfect!! I mow with it every weekend. The second one I decided to fool with the conversion. I have been working on it an hour here and there. I probably have 125$ in parts and freight to have Ed S convert the SSI to a pick up. I am having some trouble with the carb may be unrelated, I don't have it running yet, so ... I am not sure if I would do the conversion again.
 

·
Red Tractor Fan
Joined
·
1,704 Posts
I have done the Ed Stoller SSI conversion using his modified coil, and the 1970's-1980's Chrysler ignition pack. Mine was done almost a year back and it has never given me a bit of trouble. I used old used parts (coil, ignition, and ballast resistor) and fully rewired the tractor with a new key switch. I found it a lot easier to just run new wires as needed and do a nice neat clean job with heat shrink / soldered terminals. You only really save one wire (the wire from the alternator to the key, and the rest can be re-wired. My motor will start without choke or throttle every time with about three turns of the motor.

Here is my write up when I did the conversion... feel free to ask any questions
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=102364

PS: This is a very conversion do do if you have basic wiring skills. The coil pack is bolted back in (largest gap you can set it to - wide open) then there is just one wire from the coil to the control pack. The rest was to wire the coil & starter. Again, there are a few ways to do this, even just adding a toggle switch for the new ignition, but I think if you are going to do it, just re-wire it all new and fresh. I mean, it is 30+ years old!
 

·
Red Tractor Fan
Joined
·
1,704 Posts
Just to add a little now that I am home and off the road...

Given your location, I would be willing to bet you have access to many late 1970's to early 1908's Chrysler's in junk yards. Talk to a yard and tell them what you are doing and ask for a price to grab maybe two or three control packs, a length of the wire harness with the plug, a ballast resistor or two and one or two coils. Grab as much wire harness as you can from the control pack back, and you may have enough to wire your tractor and keep a factory plug too! I would be willing to bet you can get that for about $20 to $25 (better if you have a pick & pull)

Now take your SSI coil, and coil, control pack, and resistors and pack it up to send to Ed. He tested my coil and control pack for me when he did the coil. This way you will know you have good parts. He will run your coil pack first to make sure it is bad and let you know. With enough wires from the salvage yard, you can come in under $75 to fix the SSI problem for ever. My HH120 is a great motor, she will lug down and still pull heavy (2nd gear @ idle pulling a JD-112 in the yard and I have it at a low idle too!)

Oh, I almost forgot, you will need a new switch, so maybe $100 depending on the switch... Cheaper than a new motor and it's hard to beat these old cast iron jobs. If you want to call and discuss the job, shoot me a PM and I will give you my phone number. The conversion has been done by many people with great success, and Ed is a great guy to deal with.

Looks like he has a better wire diagram now, check this out...

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,115 Posts
Just to add a little now that I am home and off the road...

Given your location, I would be willing to bet you have access to many late 1970's to early 1908's Chrysler's in junk yards. Talk to a yard and tell them what you are doing and ask for a price to grab maybe two or three control packs, a length of the wire harness with the plug, a ballast resistor or two and one or two coils. Grab as much wire harness as you can from the control pack back, and you may have enough to wire your tractor and keep a factory plug too! I would be willing to bet you can get that for about $20 to $25 (better if you have a pick & pull)

Now take your SSI coil, and coil, control pack, and resistors and pack it up to send to Ed. He tested my coil and control pack for me when he did the coil. This way you will know you have good parts. He will run your coil pack first to make sure it is bad and let you know. With enough wires from the salvage yard, you can come in under $75 to fix the SSI problem for ever. My HH120 is a great motor, she will lug down and still pull heavy (2nd gear @ idle pulling a JD-112 in the yard and I have it at a low idle too!)

Oh, I almost forgot, you will need a new switch, so maybe $100 depending on the switch... Cheaper than a new motor and it's hard to beat these old cast iron jobs. If you want to call and discuss the job, shoot me a PM and I will give you my phone number. The conversion has been done by many people with great success, and Ed is a great guy to deal with.

Looks like he has a better wire diagram now, check this out...

That wiring setup is much simpler than the Dura-Spark system. If I were going to do another conversion I'd sure opt for that. Since Firefyter-Emt has experience and positive results and my experience was less than happy that is, IMO, the way to go if aftermarket ignition is desired.

Mike
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top