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Discussion Starter #25
One thing I forgot to mention is part of my desire to switch to bolt on hubs is that my local golf cart shop gives away take-off tires and wheels for free.
I got unmounted for my 3240. My FIL went by there the other day and picked up 2 sets of mounted 18x8.5-8s. One set for me and the other for him.
Your local shop may do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #27

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Hey Steve, I got my new hubs yesterday. I checked on golf cart take-off wheels and tires, it appears we are a bit greedier up here in Wisconsin, but I did find a couple of places with wheels/tire take-offs for $10/ea. That is still quite reasonable. I haven't taken apart either of my 3000's yet but will soon. My expectation is that the welded-on washer "stop" will need to be cut off, the shaft cleaned up and a new one welded closer to the bend. I will then turn a 1"ID, 1.25"OD collar that the seal of the hub will ride on. I will be able to vary the length of the collar to help with the preload on the bearings. Just in case things work out really well, I did order a 1-14 die, so I could thread the end of the spindle if that looks feasible. Or I can still use the bolt in the end of the spindle to provide preload. One issue with that is working with washers and bolt length to find a combination that will bottom the bolt in the spindle threaded hole as it provides the needed preload, then cleaning everything up and "red" loctite it. These projects are good for me, gives my brain something to ponder when I can't get out and actually work on the stuff.

Bill
 

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Hey Steve, I got my new hubs yesterday. I checked on golf cart take-off wheels and tires, it appears we are a bit greedier up here in Wisconsin, but I did find a couple of places with wheels/tire take-offs for $10/ea. That is still quite reasonable. I haven't taken apart either of my 3000's yet but will soon. My expectation is that the welded-on washer "stop" will need to be cut off, the shaft cleaned up and a new one welded closer to the bend. I will then turn a 1"ID, 1.25"OD collar that the seal of the hub will ride on. I will be able to vary the length of the collar to help with the preload on the bearings. Just in case things work out really well, I did order a 1-14 die, so I could thread the end of the spindle if that looks feasible. Or I can still use the bolt in the end of the spindle to provide preload. One issue with that is working with washers and bolt length to find a combination that will bottom the bolt in the spindle threaded hole as it provides the needed preload, then cleaning everything up and "red" loctite it. These projects are good for me, gives my brain something to ponder when I can't get out and actually work on the stuff.

Bill
Bill, I was thinking about this the other day and took a wheel off of one of may tractors to look at the spindle. I think you have a good plan here.

Any reason that a double ended stud could not be used in the threaded hole, with Red Loctite to hold it in? Then you could use a castellated nut(and cotter pin) to set preload.
 

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Joelk, that is a good idea. I had not thought about a loctited in stud. If this works out, I found the best price for hubs from Tractor Supply, they have a 4 on 4, 1" hub for $22.99. They don't stock them in any stores around here, but you can buy on-line and have them shipped to a store near you. That is cheaper than buying replacement flanged bearings for the stock rims.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks for the update Bill. I'm hanging back on this project for now due to other more pressing projects. Keep us updated on how this progresses as this is the way I want to eventually have both of my GTs modified.
 
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