My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,901 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
@pfreiburger I saw one of your 3000s had 4/4 golf cart rims on it. I want to do that to my XT3 and possibly my 3000. What parts did it take and how'd ya do it?

3000 GC rims.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
I agree, tapered roller bearings would be much better to handle extra front end loads. Please tell us about the procedure you used for the transition. And the possibility for custom front wheels with a standard bolt pattern interests me alot. (I like custom wheels)

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
I did check on ebay and 1" 4x4 trailer hubs are available for under $60 a pair. The problem is threading the end of our spindles so the tapered roller bearings can be preloaded correctly. Welding new spindles to the Cub king pins is one answer, but since we do have the bolt in the end of our spindles, making 1"ID shims could work for preloading the roller bearings. One possibility, I'll be anxious to hear how pfreiburger did it. I did replace the 4 flanged front wheel bearings on my 3185, they cost me $50 for the four.

Bill
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,901 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yeah Bill one thing I had in mind was do we have enough length of spindle to fit the hub and bearings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Hi Guys,

Here is the original post from 2015, but the pictures are gone due to Tiny Post going away. I will dig up the build pictures and post later when i get some time. I think i probably have most of them on an SD card or two.


The one thing I see that I forgot to mention was the wheel source. I got them on eBay (my go to place for buying & selling), but will have to do some research as to who the supplier was. More to come later.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,901 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hi Guys,

Here is the original post from 2015, but the pictures are gone due to Tiny Post going away. I will dig up the build pictures and post later when i get some time. I think i probably have most of them on an SD card or two.


The one thing I see that I forgot to mention was the wheel source. I got them on eBay (my go to place for buying & selling), but will have to do some research as to who the supplier was. More to come later.
Thank you sir. I hoped it was a bit easier but I had my suspicions that it would be a cut and weld/fab affair. I applaud your efforts to convert it.

Wish the pics werent dead
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Thanks for digging up that old thread. I'm thinking I might go a different route, the power steering we have on our 3000's allows for a wider front stance and a more classic automotive style front spindle. I can control the height of the front end (no matter what size wheels) by where I weld the front axles stubs. If I replace the factory kingpin/spindles with a piece of 1" shaft that extends both above and below the cast iron front axle. I have to think about where I will go from here. Obviously it must be able to be dis-assembled so that the kingpin bushings can be changed.

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
OK, here are the pictures, pretty much self-explanatory. I apologize for some of them being fuzzy, but for some I only had reduced pixel size versions and they don't blow back up very well. This mod has worked great for all these years and I really like being able to unbolt the front wheels. In addition to the larger tires shown below (described in the original post), I have the stock size 7.50’s mounted in my avatar picture (5.625 wide 4-lug with negative offset). Both came from JED Wholesale Tires via eBay. There are lots of different ways to do the 4/5-lug conversion – hopefully this gives you some more ideas.
Stub Axle Close up.jpg
Stub Axle.jpg


2447562
Axle Spindle 1.JPG

2447566
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
2447565


Axle Spindle 3.JPG
2447578


2447579
2447580
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,901 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
OK, here are the pictures, pretty much self-explanatory. I apologize for some of them being fuzzy, but for some I only had reduced pixel size versions and they don't blow back up very well. This mod has worked great for all these years and I really like being able to unbolt the front wheels. In addition to the larger tires shown below (described in the original post), I have the stock size 7.50’s mounted in my avatar picture (5.625 wide 4-lug with negative offset). Both came from JED Wholesale Tires via eBay. There are lots of different ways to do the 4/5-lug conversion – hopefully this gives you some more ideas.
View attachment 2447558 View attachment 2447559

View attachment 2447562 View attachment 2447560

View attachment 2447566 View attachment 2447565

View attachment 2447563 View attachment 2447578

View attachment 2447579 View attachment 2447580
That's awesome> Thanks for sharing it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,045 Posts
Don't know why, but the 6th picture (3rd row, second column for me), of the welded together spindle assembly, initially was replaced with this:
2447584

I mean, sure, it's completely nude, but really....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,901 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I looked up spindle specs today and got excited because I thought I measured 3 5/8" from my XT3's spindle backing to the cotter pin hole. That measurement would have allowed me to cut a .5" long x 1" ID piece of pipe and slide over the spindle to allow a 4 lug hub seal to ride on it and then shim the bearings to preload using my spindles.

Just noticed that I only have 3 1/8" to work with on the spindle as I was loading these pics. UGH! That is ~ 1/2" too short to use one of these hubs. Posting this anyways in case someone needs the spindle and hub specs.
2449794
2449795
2449796
2449797
2449798
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Steve, I've been looking at hubs also. I haven't ordered any yet, but have been thinking about what we have for spindles on the 3000's. Since this is GT stuff we are never going to heat the bearings like highway speed would, so I'm considering possibly forgetting about the rubber seal on the back, milling the rear of the hub off and just using the welded-on stop against the rear bearing. As long as we keep fresh grease in the hub, dirt and grit will always be forced out. That should give us enough length on the spindle to get hub all the way on and preload with shims.

Bill
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,901 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Steve, I've been looking at hubs also. I haven't ordered any yet, but have been thinking about what we have for spindles on the 3000's. Since this is GT stuff we are never going to heat the bearings like highway speed would, so I'm considering possibly forgetting about the rubber seal on the back, milling the rear of the hub off and just using the welded-on stop against the rear bearing. As long as we keep fresh grease in the hub, dirt and grit will always be forced out. That should give us enough length on the spindle to get hub all the way on and preload with shims.

Bill
Keep in mind that the measurements below are on my XT3 and I have not measured my 3240's spindles.

Bill I had thought about taking the seal area off as well. However, as I crunched the numbers I still came up too short for comfort.

Looking at the hub above ,the bearing to bearing outside of the inner races =3.187. I'm gonna assume a need for a minimum of a 1/16" washer inside and outside against the race so 3.312"

Now, all I have from the backing plate to the cotter pin hole is 3.25"
If the outer bearing cage doesn't rub against the spindle backing plate then the inner washer could be eliminated and I'd have 3.312"

So, it is possible if all the stars align. Another alternative I've been thinking of is to drill a hole straight into the the end of the spindle and thread it for a retaining bolt for the bearing. The weight of the bearing would still be supported on the spindle but the cotter pin hole would be eliminated and I'd have 3.625" to work with. Don't know what it would do to the structural integrity of the spindle to have a cotter pin hole crossways thru a threaded hole.

Please feel free to check my work and I'd love to hear any feedback you might have. I like these brainstorming sessions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Steve, I think the secret for your XT3 spindles would be to stop the end bolt hole short of the area where the outside bearing rides. If the only stress on the end of the spindle is inward to maintain bearing preload it will be fine. I would drill it with a .25" hole and tap for a 5/16" bolt. Possibly drill and tap a hole in the hub for a grease zerk so you can keep fresh grease in the back of the hub and force debris out. I haven't brought my 3185 around from the back of the shed yet this year but I think our 3000's have a longer spindle.

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Another possibility is moving the rear bearing deeper into the hub. By the drawing there looks to be plenty of material to cut the bearing land deeper so there is just 2.00" between the bearings. That will carry nearly all the weight on the inside bearing with the outside bearing being mainly a stabilizer.

Bill
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top