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Certified Master Tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those of you that didn't read the drama and excitement on my restoration of DeereZilla that climaxed with the discovery of a scored crankshaft in the K181 you can catch that here: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=143035

I've searched around trying to find another horizontal shaft Kohler to drop in with no luck (for reasonable money anyway). There's a 12 HP locally but the hydraulic pump mounts on studs in the head and I didn't feel like swapping them over. So after some CL searching I found and brought home this prize:



S/N makes it a 1970. PO claimed good motor (but so did the PO of DeereZilla) but this guy is a mechanic, plus he threw in the snowblower I posted in another thread. After a couple hours of turning wrenches:



Popped the oil pan and the crank looks good on this one. I think Plan B is now to use the frame from this one and transfer a lot of the shiny bits from DeereZilla over and part out the rest. At least that's today's plan...
 

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Wow, frame on that looks great. That one should restore pretty good tin doesn't look too bad and you'll need to either replace the hood or fix it (I'd replace!). How is the steering on it? That was always a weak spot on the RF's but the pan seats I believe use same steering as the 200 series and it was a bit stronger!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hard to tell about the steering since it has a 20 second flat so I have to hit it with the compressor and move it real quick. But it looks OK underneath. DeereZilla has a pretty decent hood and plastic upper grille plate; two small leading edge cracks and nice decals. The 70 hood is cooler with the "Hydraulic Lift" decals but its smashed beyond repair. So here's the next question. DeereZilla's carb on the left; new motor carb on the right. Notice the difference in the jets? Wonder why they're different.

 

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The hood is not "beyond" repair, but it'd take some time and effort to bring it back. Unless there is more damage than I can see I'd say about 2 - 3 days (I work slow) to glass it back up and straighten it! Save a lot of time to just get a new one! I'm going to be fixing the hinges on my 318 hood. One set broke off, when I get done fixing them they will be just a little stronger!

Sorry can't help you on your jet issue! Odd that the right hand one doesn't look to have an opening in it!
 

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The "herd" grows yet again :fing32: Not sure on the carbs are they the same number? Maybe someone swapped a carb from a bigger k series onto that engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think I'm going to try the carb out of DeereZilla on the new motor. At least that one I've been through and it worked. Still cleaning up the motor and changing out bits. New points and condenser going on next and SIL spotted a broken fin on the fllywheel so I'll likely swap that out as well. Today's work ends with the motor still on the bench.

 

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This is the same way I got Rusty now I'm restoring Rusty !
warning warning Wil Robinson it's a John Deere trap !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I've been trying to come up with a name for the new one. I think I'm leaning toward FrankenDeere since its going to be a bunch of parts from two machines. Must be the right choice since it already popped up in my signature :trink40:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
SO I put the motor back in FrankenDeere between Sunday and now. Added all the necessary stuff: gas and a battery. Can't get it to start. Check for spark and its good and there's fuel getting to the carb. Not sure if its the wiring problem or the fact that I used DeereZilla's carb. At this point I've chased pretty much the whole wiring harness so maybe its time to swap carbs (after I clean Frank's of course).
 

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SO I put the motor back in FrankenDeere between Sunday and now. Added all the necessary stuff: gas and a battery. Can't get it to start. Check for spark and its good and there's fuel getting to the carb. Not sure if its the wiring problem or the fact that I used DeereZilla's carb. At this point I've chased pretty much the whole wiring harness so maybe its time to swap carbs (after I clean Frank's of course).
will it least kick and run a bit with a blast of gas directly into the plug hole(s)?

if that works then yo know you have a dirty carb of fuel pump assuming it has one...

good place to start is with a little fuel in the chamber though-
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
will it least kick and run a bit with a blast of gas directly into the plug hole(s)?

if that works then yo know you have a dirty carb of fuel pump assuming it has one...

good place to start is with a little fuel in the chamber though-
Won't fire even with starting fluid. Pull the plug lead and it spits nice blue spark. Fuel is coming out the exhaust. Almost seems like electrically the key is off. I changed ignition switches and it started and ran for 2-3 seconds and died and now won't restart. Does the key switch ground out the condenser to shut the engine down?
 

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When key is turned off it stops battery voltage to the ign. coil and stops spark. Be careful changing out ign. switches as different years take different switches. Some years are the same but not all.What years are the two tractors? Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DeereZilla (the donor) is a 1969. FrankenDeere is a 1970. Oddly the wiring harness is different between the two. Voltage regulators have different connectors. This is a magneto ignition on the K181S Kohler.
 

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On the magneto ign. the key switch shorts the mag to kill spark. I misunderstood you on that one. The two wiring harness are completly different. You will have to swap out the harness from the 68 to make it work. The battery ign. is a more reliable setup if you want to go that route but the flywheels may be different.I think you said the flywheel on the newer one was broken so that may not be an option for you. Also the condensor for magneto ign. is different than the battery ign. but the points are the same. Let me know if I can help. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
They're both magneto ignition; both had/have the K181S Kohler. Fooled with it some more tonight and started out with no spark now. Haven't checked the points to see if they fouled yet, been working on trying to get the rest of the wiring right. Had a dead short to ground at one point that I thought was the ignition switch but managed to get that straightened away. Have the ignition switch wiring set up the way it was originally on a new JD switch. Just kind of chasing my tail for now as every new problem comes and goes. Big thanks for the help Bill this is turning out to be a real :banghead3
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK so after I posted my last I opened up the point cover. Smelled burnt right away. The contacts are clean but they're not closing :duh: Looks like the spring has completely lost tension. I put a brand new set of Kohler points in the DeereZilla motor when I had that running and when I pulled them out they had the same problem so I just cleaned up and reused the set that came with FrankenDeere - now they're cooked too. What could be causing the point springs to give up?
 

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H D sorry for the confusion as I thought the 70&up had the batt. ign. Anyway I have never seen the points spring lose tension? Dont give up keep looking if I get too frustrated I walk away then go back dont let it beat you. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Timely post Bill. I just got back from the dealer with a new set of points. I think the wiring problems I'm having is causing the battery to ground out through the points which is cooking the spring. Its blue like its been overheated. Hopefully got that straightened out by ringing out the whole harness. Going to throw the new set in and see what happens.
 
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