Help With Value: Caution Its a Ford

It's a 1965-1968 Ford 2000 or 3000 with a diesel engine. They were basically the same tractor but the 3000 was rated at slightly higher horsepower due to a higher maximum rpm allowed by the governor. The headlights in the grill indicates that it was probably made in one of the 2 European factories, so the serial number will probably start with a B (for the Basildon England plant) or an A (for the Antwerp Belgium plant). The US made models started with a C and had the headlights sticking out to the sides of the upper grill. The model number, serial number and production code should be stamped into a flat spot on the transmission bell housing just toward the rear of the tractor from the starter. If you're lucky, the foil sticker on the under side of the right side of the hood that has the same numbers will also still be there. Check out This Link to see a picture of where the numbers are stamped in the bell housing and for the information on how to decode the numbers.

It's hard to see, but the smaller number under the C7NN6015 casting code looks to be 8B20, and if that's the case, then that particular sub-assembly (engine) was assembled on February 20, 1968, and the tractor itself was probably assembled a few months later.

You would have gotten a better response from the "Big tractor by brand" Ford section of the forum instead of the CUT section.

As to value, standard price for a non-runner is around $500.00 tops. If it's not running, you don't know what shape the transmission, hydraulics and PTO are in if you can't run the engine to test them.

As for what it would take to get it running, do you have any info from the previous owner on why they parked it? With no other info to go on, I would start with a change of the engine oil, oil filter, oil in the oil bath air cleaner, fuel filters, drain the tank and put fresh diesel in it, and then pull the injectors and put some Marvel Mystery oil, or ATF & diesel fuel combined, into the cylinders and let them sit for a day or two before I even tried to turn the engine. Then try to turn the engine with the injectors still out using a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley nut. If it turns freely, then crank it with the starter, with the injectors still out to force the oil out of the cylinders, then you can put the injectors back in, bleed the fuel system and try to start it for real.