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Discussion Starter #1
Need some help with tiller chain, it appears to be to long or stretched or something. Take a look at the photos, the chain drags on the cover. The only adjustment I see are two additional holes to move the triangular motor mounting plate to, but the chain is to short to move it to the next hole over. The bolt hole falls halfway between both holes. What is the best way to fix this problem?

Thanks,
Tim
 

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Did you try putting a half link in the chain ?
I have never had occasion to open upa side drive tiller. Is this the chain that came off the tiller? Where either sprocket replaced? If the answers are "yes" & "no" respectively, would seem it should go back on with no problem. If either answer is different, the 1/2 link would be the solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The tiller was in pieces when I got it. I was told these are the original parts. I had to replace the motor,but it was a direct replacement, so that shouldn't have changed anything. The chain doesn't have a master link in it so how do I get it apart?
 

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Google "roller chain breaker".
Buy or rent a chain breaker.
Take it to a shop and pay them to install a half link with a master link for future adjustments.

Drill some new holes and move the sheet metal chain guard cover.

It is hard to remember from 50-60 years ago on the farm but I seem to recollect that we ground the end of the pin off and then used a punch to drive out the pin. Then we installed any master links required to undo the damage. (Dad used to have a lot of frugal ways to keep equipment running. Cut to suit, beat to fit, weld it in, use the blue wrench to remove.)
 

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I think Munderhill is back under a new name trying to promulgate his tractor porn. Best thing to do is just turn that tiller into a coffee table.:sidelaugh
 

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That looks like a new chain ... or was it just cleaned up really well?

Should be 56 pitches of no. 50 chain. Is it snug in the current position and almost rubbing on the cover, or rather loose and the chain 'flops' over to the cover?

How many teeth on the motor sprocket? 13, 15. or 17? That determines which motor mounting hole you are supposed to use. Your picture shows it in the hole for the 15 tooth sprocket ... and I think I count that in the pic.

I presume everything else centers up properly (concentric) on their respective mounting points ... the motor and the tiller section input shaft specifically. Is that top motor mount hole clean or elongated? Looks a little funny in the pic, but maybe just scarring of the fresh paint.

OK ... all that said, I think your chain is probably correct, with good parts, properly assembled.

In the pic it seems to be loose and 'flopped' toward the chain cover, which is OK. I am guessing you have not put power to it yet. Hook it up to the PTO and turn the motor a few revolutions slowly. Now the chain will be tight ... and should stay that way ... on the drive side. It may look like the chain is still able to strike or ride on the cover, but it won't. There is no tensioner in this system by design and the loose side of the chain will ride fine.

Check it out and let us know back.
 

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If my suspicion is correct ... that the chain is 'flopped' over to the position in the pic ... then the chain will run true in either direction.

One might tend to think the chain would 'bow outward' on the undriven or 'pushed' side, but in fact it will ride the arc of the gear and tend to run inward on that loose undriven side.

I await capehoorn's feedback to see if this is called right ...

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finally hooked tiller to tractor and ran a few test. The motor sprocket is a 15 tooth so the center mounting hole is correct. The chain is not new, I just cleaned it . The top mounting hole is not elongated. I had a bolt and washer in it when I painted it, so when it was removed you see an unpainted surface where the washer was. In the first photo the chain is running dry with no lubricant, turning in the forward position and it does not contact the cover. It turns smoothly with no chatter. In the second photo the chain is running with 75 - 90 weight gear oil, turning in the forward position and it does not contact the cover. However there is some chatter do to the gear oil causing the chain to cling to the sprocket on the outbound side. So to make the chain run smooth should I run a different lubricant?
 

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Clean out the oil, then pack 1/2 pint Mobilux EP-1 or equivalent into the chain and cogs. That's recommendation straight from the factory and how they build them today.

Then once the cover is on and you are running in the dirt, you'll never hear anything from the chain.

Glad it looks like it is coming through OK

Brian
 
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