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Last year I bought a new battery for my tractor as the tractor was not starting at all, if it had a bit of juice left I can hear the clicking noise when turning the key. When there is no juice left and turn the key I hear nothing, so I went out and bought a new battery. Everything went fine the whole summer, this winter we decided not to install the snow blade so it was parked all winter, just yesterday I went to go start it up and nothing, no clicking noise, I had to boost the battery but when I left it on for a bit to charge it self and then turned it off it did not start, I had to re-boost it. What can be the problem and where do I start to find the issue, can it be a bad battery again? Thanks
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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More than likely you have a defective regulator. A shorted diode will allow leakage current even when the key is off. It will drain even a good battery and it will lower/negate the charging current causing a good battery to fail to recharge while running.

If that is a B&S engine, the regulator looks like a block about 2.5" square. Two yellow wires come down from the flywheel area and plug in. One red wire goes to the main wiring. The regulator is grounded by the mounting bolts.

To check your symptoms, disconnect one of the battery leads, and then put a useable charge on the battery. Disconnect the charger and connect a meter capable of measuring 10 amps between the disconnected battery lead and the battery post. Make sure to observe polarity. With the key OFF, there should be NO current flowing except for leakage current thru the back biased diodes (very small value, may not be readable). If you're seeing measurable current flow then you've found your cause for the drained batteries. Take it one step further and disconnect the red lead coming from the regulator. If the mystery current stops, then the regulator is your problem. If not, then you'll have to find what is allowing the current to flow. The wiring diagram for the 2002 L series is on this forum. Yours should be similar. Or go to the dealer and ask for a copy. There's only lights, starter solenoid, PTO, carb solenoid, and power outlet on that model IIRC.

Good luck,
Paul

Manual:

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=23974
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Paul thanks for getting back to me, if the problem is the Regulator would this explain if the tractor is on and running for about 30mins and when I turn it off I cant start it again? Would that caused the battery not to charge? I get it if the tractor been sitting there and the battery is draining itself but wouldn't it have enough juice to turn it back on right after I turn it off? Do you know any online stores I can get the regulator?
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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Yes, it would. If the regulator is defective, then it will prevent a sufficient charge from recharging the battery.

But, don't jump to conclusions about the regulator. In any electrical system, ALL connections must be clean and secure, especially the battery post connections. If you remove the battery connectors and the posts look gray or black, they are NOT clean. To show you what I mean, take an old pocketknife and scrape upward on the post. See that nice shiny mark? That's clean lead and the post should look that way all around before reconnecting the battery. The inside of the connectors on the wires should look the same. You can use a wire brush to clean both post and inside of clamp connectors, or buy the right tool for the job. A battery terminal cleaner is cheap and does the trick. Any auto parts store will have them. It's an internal and external wire brush in a single tool. Let me see if I can find a picture...(see below)

Make sure both terminals and connectors are clean and tight, then try your charging and starting again. With clean connections, your problems may disappear! If not, try that meter test I mentioned before.

Good Luck,
Paul


Here you go:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Perfect will give it a try, does anybody know where I can buy parts online that ships to Canada. Thanks again

Peter
 

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Penn State Puller!
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Last year I bought a new battery for my tractor as the tractor was not starting at all, if it had a bit of juice left I can hear the clicking noise when turning the key. When there is no juice left and turn the key I hear nothing, so I went out and bought a new battery. Everything went fine the whole summer, this winter we decided not to install the snow blade so it was parked all winter, just yesterday I went to go start it up and nothing, no clicking noise, I had to boost the battery but when I left it on for a bit to charge it self and then turned it off it did not start, I had to re-boost it. What can be the problem and where do I start to find the issue, can it be a bad battery again? Thanks
I've had the same problem with my LA150 all along. Check your starter solenoid. If it has a short circuit in it, the battery will drain when it is not running. If this is the case, take the fuse out when you're not using the tractor, then stick it back in when you do use it. This should keep the charge in the battery. Make sure the battery has enough of a charge to keep the engine and the deck turning.
 

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if the battery was put away discharged for 6months and frozen a few times it may be done! get it charged and load tested then do your drain and charge tests!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If taken the fuse out solves the issue then its the starter that's causing it right? The fuse that is on the Starter Solenoid?
 

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If taken the fuse out solves the issue then its the starter that's causing it right? The fuse that is on the Starter Solenoid?
When I had this problem last year, I bench-tested the starter off my uncle's F-150 and it spun over fine, so I knew that wasn't the problem. The short is likely in the solenoid. The fuse is the tiny yellow plastic piece, its kept in a black slot behind the motor, in front of the solenoid.
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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If pulling the fuse solved your problem JD210-LA150, then the solenoid probably WASN'T your problem. The solenoid only sees voltage when the key is turned to the start position. Turning the key OFF after running would be sufficient to block any current through it. Pulling the fuse WOULD block any leakage current through a defective regulator pack, since that's the only part left in-circuit with the key turned off. To test it, next time leave the fuse in place and pop the red wire at the connector just below where it leaves the regulator. If the battery holds its charge, then it's probably a leaky diode.

Paul

P.S. Be careful with the dangling red wire leading to the pedestal area. It will be hot even with the key OFF.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi ryanpf, will need to charge the battery first then will give it a try, pulling the red wire when not in use to see if the battery holds its charge. Thanks
 

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Hey guys, I'm bringing this topic back on the table, I didn't have time to check the lawnmower as we just had a kid in November and been really busy and plus the lawnmower stays at my parents place. Can anybody take a picture of where I can find the regulator, I'm sure it's defective but I guess the way to check if it is is to pull the red wire that's coming out from it and if the battery holds it's charge when it's off then I know it's leaking when it's plugged it. I'm handy but not handy when it comes to small engine.

Thanks
 

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go pick up a cheap volt/ohm/ammeter, you need one for troubleshooting electrical issues.

I would do a quick check to make sure there is no battery drain, then see put the cables back to normal and see what the DC voltage is between battery - and + as well as frame and battery + both with the engine off and with it running full throttle. you should see the same voltage +/- 0.2VDC with the black lead at the battery - or the frame(pick a clean point). when the engine is running you should see at least 13.5 volts if the regulator is outputting properly, which I am beginning to think it is not since you have to boost off again even after 30 mins of running.

you did not by chance hook the first replacement battery up backwards did you? or boost the battery off backwards? either one can blow out the regulator and cause a simple battery replacement to be more work.

keep in mind too that a battery sitting for 6 months in the cold will self discharge. One as small as these can fully discharge in that time or less even if there is no load on it.
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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According to what I can find, you have a B&S Twin. On mine, it's mounted on the left side of the engine, but may be anywhere they had room! Your regulator should look something like this:

L120-Regulator
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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Refer to my previous post with picture.

Now, in the picture you can see the red wire. This wire is connected through the fuse to the battery. It doesn't matter which position the key switch is in. If the regulator is bad (burnt diode) it will allow the battery to run down when the engine isn't running. If you pull the fuse or break the connector shown, then the battery, if it a good one, should hold a charge between mowings. It will, however, loose its charge if stored over winter. What you're doing is opening the discharge path between mowing.

If you have a meter you can check it by splitting the red connector, setting the meter to read current, and placing the meter between the split ends of the connector. Normally the is a small trickle charge when the engine is OFF. If there is significant current (~100 mA or greater) then the regulator is probably bad.

You may also have a bad charging coil. Those two yellow wires in the picture connect to two black wires coming down from the coil. When the engine is running there should be AC voltage present on the black wires. Check it by disconnecting the connector, setting the meter to read AC Voltage, start the engine and place the meter leads on the two black wire connectors. It should read above 28 VAC.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay will give that a try, for testing the regulator do I splice the wire on both ends one on each side of the fuse? To test the coil you said to disconnect the black wires and connect the meter to the two wires and then start the engine, question is would it start if the wires are disconnected?
 

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The red wire's connector, top-right in the picture, will pop apart. Just pop it and connect the meter between the two parts of the connector. It's not necessary to monkey with the fuse. The fuse must be in place to do the power-off check for current flow. Remember, the red wire on the side away from the regulator is HOT with 12 volts at all times. Don't let the metal connection inside touch ground. If you have a shorted diode, the current will indicate immediately on the meter.

To check the charging system coil output, you disconnect the connector with the yellow wires on one side and the black wires on the other. The engine will start with the plug apart. It just controls the charging system, not involved with the starting system. Once the engine is running at Fast Idle (Rabbit) speed, use the meter to check for at least 28V output from the two black wires.

Paul
 

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I had similar symptoms as yours. My LA120 has the same engine. I thought it was the battery and replaced it. When that only worked temporarily, I then thought it was the starter so I took in back to the dealer as it was under warranty.
Come to find out, the valves needed adjusted. Being out of adjustment causes back pressure in the cylinders making it hard to crank. Once that was done, I have not had an issue in 6 years. I even put the original battery back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Will try to test the regulator and the coil to see if there is an issue there. Will post the results shortly
 
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