[chucketn]

I have a 2000 Murray, powered by a Tecumseh OVH175. I has been the best mower since I bought it. Recently, the engine started dropping the mounting bolts, and after replacing several I realized the holes were stripped.
I pulled the engine, and inserted heilicoils in the mount holes. That problem solved, but that is when the no start problem began. Since reinstalling the engine, I have had problems starting it. I have had it running several times and used it successfully. Now , it just will not start. There is no spark, as evidenced by a Harbor Freight spark tester, that is it if that is working. I will go test the tester on my truck after I post this.
I worked on mowers as a kid, rebuilt some, repaired some. That was many years ago. You could easily find tune up parts and help in any local hardware or farm store.
Now the good repair shops are backlogged with the summer trade, and several refuse to even work on a "Murray".
I have decided to repair it myself. Before I go ordering various parts, can someone lead me through troubleshooting this motor? I have the engine cover off, and I have basic tools including a multimeter.
Thanks for helping an old guy out.

Chuck in E. TN

 

[FergusonTO35]

The complete Tecumseh engine repair manual is available for download in the Small Engine Repair forum. Its very thorough.

 

[chucketn]

I downloaded all the manuals that applied to my OHV175. The OHV engine manual lead me through troubleshooting the ignition and I diagnosed a bad ignition module. After replacing the ignition module, I had carb problems. I disassembled and cleaned the carb and got it running again. Now I find the choke linkage needs tweaking to reliably start, and the drive belt slips! Boy, my green machine needs work.
Anybody know how to get the parking break working again! It won't hold, the pull lock just falls back!
Thanks for all the help so far.

Chuck in E. TN

 

[FergusonTO35]

The p-brake mechanism of Murrays is not very robust, it doesn't work on any of my machines. I always put the machine in gear to hold it if the engine is off, if the engine is on I block the wheels.

 

[slongholio]

Ahh faithful Murray indeed. I have a 19 inch cheapest of cheap push mower I bought 15 years ago for $99 from the Air Force Base PX. Haven't had a single problem with it ever.

Figured I'd just get a cheapo and throw it out when it dies and get a new one, since they cost so much to have repaired, but it never dies. I wonder if they still make them as well as they did 15 years ago.

I've been tough on it too, with mowing the miscellaneous stuff that grows along the water after it gets to high, but is too iffy to take the tractor to it.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I think the best push mowers have Briggs & Stratton power and no options whatsoever, just a basic side discharge non-propelled machine. All that other stuff just adds needless weight and complexity.

 

[patthesoundguy]

I think the best push mowers have Briggs & Stratton power and no options whatsoever, just a basic side discharge non-propelled machine. All that other stuff just adds needless weight and complexity.

I totally agree with that, the regular briggs 3.5 horse motor is almost indestructable, I have seen them go for 2o years or more without skipping a beat, just change the oil and clean the deck and oil it every fall,. It will last forever!!! that goes for the simple old lawn tractors that use the 5 horse briggs, they will last for ever and pull over a house if they can get enough traction

 

[arclight]

My grandfather had a mower when I was a kid and all it had was a B&S 3.5 HP
and that thing never quit and when he passed my parents sold it for more than what he paid for it.