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Restoring lawn tractors
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello...maybe someone has one of these. I haven't found the model number yet, it's shoe horned into a Toro. it's an opposing twin , no OHV. Horizontal with the carb on the top. It's got a serios lack of power. it starts ok , and it will power the hyro, but if you climb a hill or ingauge the PTO in will slow down and stall. First if anyone has a photo of how the governer / throttle looks then I could confrim that those are hooked up proper. There seams to be a fuel pump attached to the front of the carb.. common on larger motors. thanks in avance..
Rob
 

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If it is the Briggs "boxer" L head engine your talking about I have 3 of these engines in the verticle configuration, a 14, a 16 and an 18 hp,,, they have plenty of power. The 16 had a power issue once, it tossed a valve seat and had essentially lost a cylinder and it started and ran but obviously no power. The 14 was aquired with a bad valve seat. If you haven't done so yet I would pull the spark plugs and do a compression check to make sure,, this was a common problem with these engines as I have had 2 that have had valve seat problems.
 

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Robeye, send me an e-mail address, and I will send you photos of the governor linkage on the 422437 0721 horizontal 18hp B&S on my GT18.

Seth K. Pyle
 

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Restoring lawn tractors
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If it is the Briggs "boxer" L head engine your talking about I have 3 of these engines in the verticle configuration, a 14, a 16 and an 18 hp,,, they have plenty of power. The 16 had a power issue once, it tossed a valve seat and had essentially lost a cylinder and it started and ran but obviously no power. The 14 was aquired with a bad valve seat. If you haven't done so yet I would pull the spark plugs and do a compression check to make sure,, this was a common problem with these engines as I have had 2 that have had valve seat problems.
Good plan, I will also check the feul filter and pump..
 

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Restoring lawn tractors
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Discussion Starter #5
Well I did a compresion check on both cylinders. they are both 75 psi, I hope that's excepable. I checked the fuel filter. I think my next step is to remove the carb and give it a good cleaning.

Thanks Rob
 

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Restoring lawn tractors
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok things are going south here.. This has got to be one Briggs worst engines :Disgus: I've carefully cleaned up the carb , it wasn't bad anyway. Now it's hard to start ! and won't stay running if you get it started. Idle jet 1 1/2 turns out. Got fuel , got spark , got compression, now a got a dead battery. Any sugestions ?

Rob
 

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Restoring lawn tractors
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Idles rough if I turn it in. Yes there is a fuel pump on the side of the carb. I took the top of the carb off and the float bowl was full, so if anything this motor seams to be flooding it's self. a lot of fuel & vapour coming out. Last night it ran for about three minutes then I couldn't restart, I let it sit for an hour and it started ?? That has food written all over it . Choke is manual so no choke.
Rob
 

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Pull the carb and take the float out place the float in a deep pan of gas and see if the float sinks. then sink sink the float to see if air bubbles rise. If that is not the problem it could be the float height. Did you blow the carb with compressed air? is the rubber on the needle valve in bad shape? let us know what is going on with it.
 

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What you are describing sounds a lot like it is just running on one cylinder. I would set the spark plug wires on there loose and then take them off one at a time and see if you get similar response on both sides. Caution: B&S says to not run with one plug wire off so make it quick, shouldn't take but an instant.

Someone with a somewhat similar situation recently removed the hex plug on the lower right side of the carb and squirted carb cleaner in there after the crap etc. drained, fixed his.

Walt Conner
 

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Restoring lawn tractors
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanx for all the answers, When it comes to the carb, I've removed it from the motor ( manifold and all) and cleaned it good. There does not seam to be a replacable needle seat for the float ? The brass float itsself seams in good order..no leaks. In fact the whole carb is pristine, no varnish, dirt or even discoloration. We did a compresion test and both cylinders were 75 psi. There are new plugs and the spark tester shows good strong spark in both cylinders. What a mistery ? Would the govener have any effect on higher speeds. The motor will start and run fine, but when you put any load on it, such as driving / or engaging the deck, then it will bog down to a stall (if you don't unload it ) and then takes about a minuet or more to biuld up speed again. wierd ?

Rob
 

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Still sounds like a fuel problem. There is a replaceable seat for the needle. It is the sleeve that the needle rides in. Can be removed with a 1/4-20 tap, 1/4-20 bolt, and a 3/8 nut.

How did the end of the needle look?

Seth K. Pyle
 

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on the ride side of carb is a hex nut with a fixed jet below it, the jet will plug up and starve the engine for fuel. remove the hex nut and use carb and choke cleaner to try and remove crud, if you have acess to compressed air try that after the carb cleaner.
both of my sears twin 18 has had this problem which was caused by fuel line coming apart inside from age and rubber particles getting into carb.
 
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