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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have changed my blades recently b/c I was having a lot of discharge still. I had about 50 hrs on them.

It has been a bit wet here..but not horrible. The problem I'm having is that even thought the grass appears dry, when it is getting all over the rear rollers and then coming off in chunks.

Is there a way to prevent this?

I'm curious because I altered my deck adjustment and think I may have changed the front angel to much allowing for too much discharge on the rollers if this is possible.

Do you guys get a lot of grass clumps coming off your rollers?

Any suggestions appreciated :)
 

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maybe stick a plate on the discharge chute to shield the rollers from the grass clippings????
 

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Sounds like deck leveling changed things? Not clear, mulching?? what machine??

Is the deck leveled properly?

What is height of grass? What is mowing height? Are you taking off too much at once? Is it too wet?

guessing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm using a Regent. 22 hp 44 deck.

I have the mulching kit installed. Blades have been sharpened, approx 10 hrs on them now

I am mowing on 2.75- 3 (approx on the dial)

I'm cutting 2x a week now and the length would be approx 1 inch

I'm thinking it must be my deck levelling also. Still seems to be putting out a little on the right hand side.

I'm not really sure where I should start to fiddle with it.

In the end it seems like the cut grass is coming out the rear and plastering the rollers. I'm thinking I should perhaps raise the front as this would lower the rear possibly shooting the grass away from the rollers.

You guys have any discharge coming out of the deck?
 

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The problem I'm having is that even thought the grass appears dry, when it is getting all over the rear rollers and then coming off in chunks.
I don't see why this is either unusual or a problem. The deck is cutting the grass and leaving clippings. The rollers are right behind the deck, on the ground where those clippings are. Just a bit of moisture will cause those clippings to stick to the rollers and eventually clump up. The grass may seem dry at the top but a bit of rain or even dew from the night before can leave enough moisture to do this. If the grass is thick enough, it will hold moisture for a long time. Not much you can do about it.
 

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Which kinda says your lawn is too perfect. ;) You could cure this by mowing my lawn. :ROF I have 2 disastrous lawns - front is pure clay w lots of plantain weeds, and others. -back (sigh) it's sand base, has flowering weeds, was beautiful in spring after I nursed it last fall; but it has no drought resistance; and it has a large patch of 'blue fescue' that browns off early, goes dormant - and worse, that junk is spreading somehow. - worse again, I have a zillion little bugs all over it. If I walk on it, there's 17 little bugs that jump out of the way every step. I would welcome your complaints. :) I just mow it about every 10 days; and it looks great with the stripes - friends come over and say "nice lawn". :rolleyes: Simplicity mowers are great.

I also use both lawns for test driving and touring seat time on my tractor. I cleared any obstacles so I can go all around the house now. And I have some hills I can climb on too. I just started clearing a trail through my little forest so I can gather wood easier with tractor and trailer I just bought - most of this is real funny too. Yesterday i jammed the front steering when a rock cranked the wheel sideways full lock; speed was very slow fortunately; seems ok.

Meanwhile, my first thoughts were similar to what arathol expressed; except you said you made changes in the deck level.

You can test for moisture just by putting a hand on the grass - if you feel moisture, well, there you go. Mowing later in the day on a day with no rain will probably help. Grass has moisture in it but that usually isn't much of an issue. I don't mulch; it's side discharge only; so all grass is gone out the side immediately. The only buildup is when I extend mowing interval to 2 weeks.

If you are mowing 2x per week, you might be using a lot of fertilizer. Reducing the N number can control top growth directly; focus more on the P and K numbers. Phosphorous promotes root growth mainly. Potassium K promotes plant "turgor", basically plant health overall. You can control all of the above with any ferts by simply using less. Ferts are really all the same stuff, just in varying proportions and concentrations - you can lightly apply a 30-30-30 so it's equal to 7-7-7; and you can always add a touch more after a couple weeks. Every few yrs, trace elements Ca and Mg using Dolomitic Lime can be added. My lawns do not reflect what I know about turfgrass science and turf management; I worked golf course and studied turf management, turf school.

Anyway, get the leveling organized for peace of mind. Perhaps raising the mowing height slightly will allow more escape for the mulch. It's possible that if the deck is spitting clumps which are wet and sticky, that that is what you are seeing on the rollers. The mulch needs to escape from the deck somehow somewhere. What flows in must flow out. So it becomes a balance problem perhaps. Lots of variables.
 

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It seems everything was fine before you "adjusted" the deck. How did you adjust it? Were you having a bad cut before?

I have cut in the rain...not by choice...I was mowing Saturday and of course the skys opened up into a good downpour. I could've quit as I was only 2 blocks from home...but being 90*+ witha heat index well over 100* it actually felt quite good.

In short order the lawn was soaked...I slowed groundspeed slightly and the grass looked fine...the rollers picked up some blades but no clumps as there was no clumping even in this very wet condition.

I have the 54" deck on my Prestige with mulch kit but without the ramps installed and use Gator blades mowing at about 4.75 on the dial indicator.

If you have clumping there's other issues at work here...perhaps you're mowing at too high of a groundspeed? Your height also seems very low.
 

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I have a lot of suspicions here: Blades not properly sharp, deck not adjusted correctly, grass is damp or wet, deck is clogged up. mulching kit causing or aggravating problems, engine speed slow, ground speed fast...

Blades NEED to be SHARP. Period. Numerous times I've heard, "Why bother, they just get dull anyway" Well duhh!!! and "Sharp blades dont cut any better than dull ones" Does anyone really beleive that?. Ever shave with a dull razor? thats way sharper than a properly sharpened lawn mower blade. Dull blades make a "puree" out of the grass making sticky clippings, while sharp ones neatly slice the grass. 20 hours is usually time to touch them up, rather than waiting untill there dull making a lot of work to sharpen.

The front of the deck should be 1/4" to 1/2" higher than the back, and level from side to side. A concrete floor is the best place to check height. Checking the actual height of the blades with a set of inside calipers works best, but a tape measure checking side to side on the lower edge of the deck is usually good enough.

If you see moisture on your tires while mowing, the grass isn't dry and can make problems.

Your deck should be thoroughly cleaned whenever you sharpen the blades, built up grass just catches more grass and slows down airflow for less efficent clipping ejection. Every fall I scrape, wire brush sand as necesarry and put a fresh coat of paint on the bottom. not only will this extend the decks life indefiniitely, but the smoother the surface, the less sticks to it.

Cutting at 3" in the dry summer heat is minimill, unfortunatly, many deck dont go higher (like my sovereigns deck) I would mow 4" right now if I could. I've heard you shouldn't cut more than 1/3 of the grasses hight off at once, and think thats a good rule of thumb. Cut 6" no lower than 4", cut 3" no lower than 2" etc.

I've had mostly poor results with mulching mowers, and found I have no need for them anyway. I stick with stock Simplicity blades, they're better steel than most, and have minimal "lift" High lift blades suck the thatch out of the grass, and thatch helps considerably to keep moisture in the ground during dry months. If I want to overseed, I rent a thatcher.

Most machines should be run at or near full throttle and 1/2 to 3/4 ground speed.

Keep them blades SHARP!!! :)
 

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A general call to higher mowing height in this thread - nice to see that.

Taller grass is more drought and weed resistant - shading.

Taller grass also photsynthesizes more - more energy, more power, more strength, the "power lawn" - and the excess energy, after plant maintenance is satisfied, promotes more energy to root growth. Deeper roots. A deeply rooted lawn is almost invulnerable.

With all this happening, add dethatch, better said as "grooming" using a tine dethatcher, in spring; but do not remove the thatch - mow it in. Better to follow with aeration.

For overseeding, I get radical - triple aerate - near tillage - leave cores - add seed. You can add seed before the aerate also - sacrificial seed. Followed by seed after aerate process complete. Then don't mow for a month. The very thought of this disturbs people. (triple aerate simulates topdressing - but this "topdress" is actually a million little "minilawns" with grass, soil interface, and roots - just looking for a place to attach itself, and offering a home for new seed at the same time).

(caution - lawn might be too thick). :ROF - oh, I wish. No home for weeds?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First. I have to say a big thanks to everyone who has commented. It's really nice to see.

My lawn is very thick, kinda like a marshmallow if you step on it. I am going to try the suggestion of raising my blade up to 3 and see if that makes a difference, and clean out the under neath. My blades are sharp with under 10 hrs on them.

I also mow at night and although it has been damp / wet at times I don't mow when the grass feels wet or damp.

There is a slight trailing of grass clippings that form on the right side where the chute is. I have the mulching kit installed so it is blocked.

I'll give another attempt at levelling my deck :(

I'll also report back over the weekend when I cut again :)

Thanks for the info/help
 

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So, you are mowing at = 1 inch = height of grass /after mowing? And at 1", it feels like a marshmallow? Wow! That's thick! It would be fun to try a taller height.

It would be fun to establish a croquet course also. I did that once with fairways and roughs (short and tall). I went crazy on it - had like 30 hoops, running all over the yard. Fairways were about 1/2" - mowed daily w reel mower. Roughs between 3 and 5"+. It looked like an aerial view of a golf course. Neighbours thought I was nuts. It was fun. It's high maintenance for only a few parties with friends - gotta love the dream - not for everyone.
The 1" height would be perfect as is. Just add hoops.
There's a lawn bowling green in the area where they also play serious croquet; it's more like a golf green. The course I made incorporated existing landscape, hills, slopes, sidewalks, gardens, birdbath, etc - the adult version of minigolf. It was quite serious; you had to read the greens. ;)

edit = There's a guy a mow for; he likes it taller than taller. I mow at 4"; he's barely satisfied. It grows to 7" before I mow again. His neighbours hate him. I stripe in squares - it looks the same as any other lawn after mowing; but when you walk on it, it's up around your ankles. :ROF I always try to get him to mow short in spring to lower the sheath area; but he won't do it. So it feels like corn stubble in bare feet. He won't do what I tell him; he's a control freak, it seems.

( - yes, the sheath will translocate in response to mowing height - that's why you only mow a third at a time - greater than a third is a mild scalp, and causes physiological stress. The extreme is the yellow scalp; which is directly cutting the sheath area. You can "push" the grass down to a half inch, IF you mow a third at a time, with a couple days between mows. Kinda like persuasion. Note: this assumes the mower will go that low, and the belts will handle the angles. This is where reel mowers take over. Never buy a new reel mower. Buy an olde reele steele, almost like cast iron.)

Sorry for the rambling.
 

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I like rambling, I also like reel mowers. Greens keepers know. Not even th ZT freaks come close to the speed and contour matching of 9 reels ganged up behind a tractor for a 12 foot cut.
 

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I'm using a Regent. 22 hp 44 deck.

I have the mulching kit installed. Blades have been sharpened, approx 10 hrs on them now

I am mowing on 2.75- 3 (approx on the dial)

I'm cutting 2x a week now and the length would be approx 1 inch

I'm thinking it must be my deck levelling also. Still seems to be putting out a little on the right hand side.

I'm not really sure where I should start to fiddle with it.

In the end it seems like the cut grass is coming out the rear and plastering the rollers. I'm thinking I should perhaps raise the front as this would lower the rear possibly shooting the grass away from the rollers.

You guys have any discharge coming out of the deck?
I have the same mower as you have with mulching kit. When buying this the dealer gave a long lecture on how he was better than a box store and when he delivered a mower it was setup correct and ready to go. First experence was okay lot's of fine ground up grass clippings. Every time I backed up it would leave a mess of these clippings from under the deck and seemed to take a lot of power to mow. Becouse of the lecture I did not check the mower deck settings before mowing with it. I ran it on the garage floor and checked the deck. Simplicity wants the deck set 1/4 higher in front and this deck was set about 1/2 lower in front. After resetting and rechecking tire pressures and everything else that moves on this thing every problem went away and it cuts the best of anything I've ever used. Check all the settings and clean after every use and it will work fine for you.
 

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I have the same mower as you have with mulching kit. When buying this the dealer gave a long lecture on how he was better than a box store and when he delivered a mower it was setup correct and ready to go. First experence was okay lot's of fine ground up grass clippings. Every time I backed up it would leave a mess of these clippings from under the deck and seemed to take a lot of power to mow. Becouse of the lecture I did not check the mower deck settings before mowing with it. I ran it on the garage floor and checked the deck. Simplicity wants the deck set 1/4 higher in front and this deck was set about 1/2 lower in front. After resetting and rechecking tire pressures and everything else that moves on this thing every problem went away and it cuts the best of anything I've ever used. Check all the settings and clean after every use and it will work fine for you.
I think there's a moral here somewhere....
 

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I have changed my blades recently b/c I was having a lot of discharge still. I had about 50 hrs on them.

It has been a bit wet here..but not horrible. The problem I'm having is that even thought the grass appears dry, when it is getting all over the rear rollers and then coming off in chunks.

Is there a way to prevent this?

I'm curious because I altered my deck adjustment and think I may have changed the front angel to much allowing for too much discharge on the rollers if this is possible.

Do you guys get a lot of grass clumps coming off your rollers?

Any suggestions appreciated :)
I have changed my blades recently b/c I was having a lot of discharge still. I had about 50 hrs on them.

It has been a bit wet here..but not horrible. The problem I'm having is that even thought the grass appears dry, when it is getting all over the rear rollers and then coming off in chunks.

Is there a way to prevent this?

I'm curious because I altered my deck adjustment and think I may have changed the front angel to much allowing for too much discharge on the rollers if this is possible.

Do you guys get a lot of grass clumps coming off your rollers?

Any suggestions appreciated :)
I would say if you have mulching it installed, this is where problem begins. It maybe clogged if you are referring to a bagging system. If you have clumps, that is sign of too wet condition or you should raise the height. If you desire 1 in turf, you either need reels or you'd need to mow 3 times if conditions promote thriving growth. Your deck should be 3/4 in higher in the rear, relative to measured height in front, at highest deck setting. Hope this helps
 
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