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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I enjoyed mowing right over the sizeable stick on my DGT6000 (even thought I should have cleared the yard first as usual) then the stick got its revenge!

Managed some how to push under the push bumper and over the deck and it pulled the harness wiring for the electric clutch. So the blades stopped spinning. I smiled and realized I should have thrown the sticks out first as usual. :banghead3

Good news is the harness plug and about 6 incches of wire were recovered and plug looks fine. Also on the clutch I have about 3 inches of wire sticking out. (2 wires total) I think the stick pushed the wire into a pulley and well you know...CUT!

Both wires are blue with no polarity markings or stripes/lines etc... Sears only sells the complete clutch. I am going to pull the deck tonight and try to patch some new wire onto the clutch's pieces and then crimp the plug on and hook it up.

Question: Does it make a difference which wire is connected to top of the plug and which is connected to the bottom etc?

How hard is it to pull the clutch off if I decide I need to do the work on my bench so I can solder?

Thank you for any help

~GOD BLESS~

john
 

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A semi-retired senior cit
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Look in the MTF library for the craftsmen service manual that wiring should be in it.
 

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Remove the grass screen on top of the engine. You'll need a way to hold the flywheel in place so the crankshaft doesn't turn. I think the bolt that holds the clutch on needs a 3/4" socket set. Maybe bigger. Can't remember. Once you break the nut free, the electric clutch should slide down with a couple taps of a rubber mallet.
 

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Don't think the clutch is polorized, One wire to Ground, other to +. All it is a electro magnet.
 

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just finished swapping a clutch onto another engine socket size is 5/8" you can hold the shaft between the clutch and upper pully with a monkey wrench and pull the idler pulley and things should come right off.
 

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Plowboy
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just use an impact gun then there is no need to hold the flywheel. +, and - doesn't matter because it doesn't ground on the casing or shaft. works like a speaker, when you apply voltage it becomes a magnet and pulls the clutch together.
 

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Plowboy
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just thought of something. if you pulled the wires out of the clutch. it may have damaged the windings. make sure to test it before you reinstall it
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone - I been out of it since Friday afternoon due to severe migraine...

So I am off to get her up in the air and take a look at what I have to work with. I'll look closely at how hard they got pulled from the clutch - I am hopeful since there is still a few inches of each wire hanging on to the clutch.

Appreciate the info and the pics. maybe I can find my camera and take a few pics of the fix.

~GOD BLESS~

john
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Praise GOD! Repair complete - thank you all! Pictures to tell the story....













OEM clutch from Japan?


Solder and heat shrink






Heard the 'click' from the seat so back on with the hood and deck - AMEN!




Worked great through heavy & tall grass (back yard) good to be back in seat again.

~GOD BLESS~

john
 

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Sorry for bringing this thread up from the dead but facing the same problem. I purchased a brand new clutch and I'm guessing the way it's routing, if I make a turn in any direction, the wiring gets snagged somehow and splits the wire. Does anyone have a diagram of how to wire suppose to lead from the clutch itself to the connector above the subframe? I lead the wire straight through the hole near the connector above the subframe and that didn't seem to help much. Any suggestion appreciated. Craftsman 48" 26hp 917.28742
 
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