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Discussion Starter #1
Hello fellas! Glad I found this place! Google is my friend ;)

Now to the meat. I've recently acquired an older gravely as part of an estate. I can't make out the model designation. I guess the previous owner REALLY liked red paint. I tried nail polish remover but then resorted to scraping with a knife. I cant see the letter......


I'm sure you can't make a positive ID from that pic so here are a few more.

There is an upside down "L" cast into the lower portion of the jug on the motor


Side views



Rear view


The only things I can see offhand that I need to do is reinstall the Starter chain, clean out the gas tank, and of course get a battery.

Is there any information you can give me on this mower? I have NEVER used a gravely but know they are solid machines. I have a good bit of overgrown land that needs reclaims so I'm hoping the old fella fires up without much fuss.

Thanks guys for any information or help you can provide me! :thanku::trink39:
 

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First, :Welcome1:

Second, that place you were looking for the model applies only to the mower attachment. The tractor unit should be identified by a large data plate to the right of the fuel cap, or a small data plate on the left front of the advance casting (the squarish thing on the nose, to which the attachment bolts). There's one pic there which looks like you've got the small data plate, but I'd need a closeup to be sure.

I'd guess your unit is a fairly late model C or CI. I say that because of the carb configuration, the 7.6 head, and the axle flange. Maybe about a '72 or so?

Re your planned mission, this is quite a good machine for the job. You've already got the duals, for stability and traction on rough ground, and the MA106 mower attachment is a total beast for brush-hogging.

You don't have a governor; that would likely be a good addition. See several recent threads on here for more discussion.

If you post a closeup of that small data plate, we can probably give more detail.

Again, welcome aboard!
 

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Just a word of warning.

That machine will mow down anything it can push over, including you

This is an older machine that dose not have the safety features of todays mowers. Before you get to reclaiming the over grown area, take it out on level ground and get a feel for it. Do not let children or animals near it it will mow them down.

Stay safe and enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just a word of warning.

That machine will mow down anything it can push over, including you

This is an older machine that dose not have the safety features of todays mowers. Before you get to reclaiming the over grown area, take it out on level ground and get a feel for it. Do not let children or animals near it it will mow them down.

Stay safe and enjoy.
Excellent point! There is quite a bit of flat ground at the property i need to mow. I'll start there. I'll also look into the governor.

JRD - I'll get a pic of any data plates I can find. Thanks a ton!
 

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As John mentioned, you appear to still have an ID plate intact, shown in your 3rd picture. It's located on the left side of the advance casting, directly underneath the remote PTO assembly. The model of your Gravely is likely "CI" - an intermediate speed machine, produced on/after the 1966/1967 time frame, which is when Gravely switched to the reinforced jug with the upright spark plug and to the external air filter unit. You definitely don't have a C8 (another lever would be present) and are unlikely to have a CS (slow speed, rare). You could have a fast-speed "C" model tractor though - if you have to nearly run to keep up with the machine, it's a "C" - if you can walk comfortably behind it, it's probably a "CI." Hopefully you didn't get her from Oklahoma - there was a guy out there that painted everything under the sun red.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As John mentioned, you appear to still have an ID plate intact, shown in your 3rd picture. It's located on the left side of the advance casting, directly underneath the remote PTO assembly. The model of your Gravely is likely "CI" - an intermediate speed machine, produced on/after the 1966/1967 time frame, which is when Gravely switched to the reinforced jug with the upright spark plug and to the external air filter unit. You definitely don't have a C8 (another lever would be present) and are unlikely to have a CS (slow speed, rare). You could have a fast-speed "C" model tractor though - if you have to nearly run to keep up with the machine, it's a "C" - if you can walk comfortably behind it, it's probably a "CI." Hopefully you didn't get her from Oklahoma - there was a guy out there that painted everything under the sun red.
Thanks man. Nope didn't get her from OK. It was local :drunkie:
 

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That's the number we're looking for. If you have a 4-digit number following the "J," you have a 1967 model - the number should be something above 7600. If you have a 5-digit number there, you could have a '71 or '72 model machine. My guess if you have a '67, because by the early 70's, I believe Gravely had installed offset control levers on the handlebars - which you don't have.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's the number we're looking for. If you have a 4-digit number following the "J," you have a 1967 model - the number should be something above 7600. If you have a 5-digit number there, you could have a '71 or '72 model machine. My guess if you have a '67, because by the early 70's, I believe Gravely had installed offset control levers on the handlebars - which you don't have.
It be a five digit number :) Thank man! Know the quest to find a manual for it :trink39:
 

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It be a five digit number :) Thank man! Know the quest to find a manual for it :trink39:
J-75550 is your cut-off - lower number and it's a '71. Higher number and it's a 1972. I'm pretty certain that in '72/'73 they changed those directional levers though. Anyway, www.oldgravelys.net gets you to all the free manuals you could desire for your machine, courtesy of Chip Old. Good luck with her! :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
J-75550 is your cut-off - lower number and it's a '71. Higher number and it's a 1972. I'm pretty certain that in '72/'73 they changed those directional levers though. Anyway, www.oldgravelys.net gets you to all the free manuals you could desire for your machine, courtesy of Chip Old. Good luck with her! :fing32:
Thanks for all your help. I've been on the oldgravely site but not knoing the model i really was peeing in the wind. Sent ya a PM by the way!
 

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Glad to see you're sorting out the vintage.

Re the manuals, the L model changed very little over time, so you probably don't need to sweat too hard over the correct year. As long as you're looking at super-convertible (that's the name of the electric start model from that vintage) manuals from the late 60's to early 70's, you should be fine.

Re care when using, coldone has it right. These machines were not designed to be warm and fuzzy or user friendly. They're remarkably sturdy and powerful, and will do hard work all day long; they don't have a lot of cushy bits or automatic safety equipment. You need not be paranoid, but a certain amount of caution and respect for the hardware will go a long way.

While we're on the topic of things to watch out for, keep an eye out for obstacles getting under the deck. An MA106 at speed which encounters a baseball-sized rock or beer can or similar object will eject it at warp speed without coughing or slowing down. It pays to keep that in mind, lest you start flinging things at houses or cars or people :Stop:
 

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Your fuel filter is installed backwards. Replace it, don't reverse it. Better yet, get a fuel valve assembly with a glass bowl.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your fuel filter is installed backwards. Replace it, don't reverse it. Better yet, get a fuel valve assembly with a glass bowl.
Man! GOOD CATCH!!!!!!

thanks for allthe help! I hope she fires up without alot of fuss.

What battery size is recommended. I don't think a huge amount of cranking amps would be needed...........

This site has already been a huge help!!!!
 

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I hope she fires up without alot of fuss.
You can test some things before attempting a real start. In fact, it's probably a good idea to do so.

Does it have compression? Disconnect the plug. Leaving the starter chain off, grab the center of the starter sprocket and turn it over by hand. You should feel a very noticable compression stroke every two turns; to the point where you will have difficulty turning it through. If you don't feel an obvious compression stroke, more debugging is called for, maybe pull the head and look at the valves and rings.

Does it have a spark? Pull the plug, stick the lead on it, and lay it on the head. Turn it by hand again. Every two turns you should feel and hear some mechanical action, culminating in a clank or snap. That's the impulse coupling in the mag. Coincident with the snap, you should see a nice hot blue spark at the plug. No spark probably means mag problems, there is plenty that can be done there.

If you have a strap, you can start it without the battery, just hook the hole in the end of the strap over the little nub in the starter sprocket, wrap the strap 3-4 turns around the hub, back it up against the back side of the compression stroke. Choke, about 1/4 throttle, and give the strap a good solid pull. If conditions are right, it should light up.

These machines were designed without electric starters, it's not hard at all to start it with no power.
What battery size is recommended. I don't think a huge amount of cranking amps would be needed...........
Almost anything will work. I tend to buy cheap walmart batteries for mine.
This site has already been a huge help!!!!
We aim to please :) Keep those cards and letters coming....
 

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On batteries, I recommend getting a good sized car battery, even if just for ease of fitting on the battery box -- the small ones usually need to be strapped down whereas some of the big one fit nice and snug -- also see what kind of cables are on the machine, I've seen some with lawn and garden type, but most have automotive top-mount style.
 

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J-75550 is your cut-off - lower number and it's a '71. Higher number and it's a 1972. I'm pretty certain that in '72/'73 they changed those directional levers though. Anyway, www.oldgravelys.net gets you to all the free manuals you could desire for your machine, courtesy of Chip Old. Good luck with her! :fing32:
The change to Forward is forward occured in 1972. Early 72s are of the type you have. Late 72 units have extra parts on the directional control lever and the lever sits closer to the handle bar grip.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=135186 will give you a serial number list that is as correct as we have currently.
 

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On batteries, I recommend getting a good sized car battery, even if just for ease of fitting on the battery box -- the small ones usually need to be strapped down whereas some of the big one fit nice and snug -- also see what kind of cables are on the machine, I've seen some with lawn and garden type, but most have automotive top-mount style.
I agree completely. If I remember correctly, I use a cheap group 26 in mine and put on trickle charge occasionally.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the info again! I'll swing by wallyworld eventually to pick up a battery.

I did rotate the flywheel and it's definately got compression! I was relieved to see this. I'll pull the plug and check for spark soon. Need to clean the fonk out of the gas tank and get a new filter as well!

Thanks again for all the help and any more pointers will be greatly appriciated!
 

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Another word of caution. The forward and reverse lever has an "over center" type lock. Be very careful when backing up. When backing up you will have it locked in the reverse position and both hands on the handle bars. It is very easy to gut pinned against a tree with a handle bar on either side of you and the point if the hood in your crouch and there is no way out. These machines will stop at nothing. I had an old "L" so I know.
 
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