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I got a freebie older model craftsman, somewhere around 1981... 917.255273. its a 1036.

i have changed the oil, drained the gas, changed the spark plug- but it still wont turn over all the way, like it isnt getting any spark. upon more investigation found out a rat had made a home in the engine, cleaned that out, but i think he may have done some electrical damage.

i need to get the fan off in order to change the spark plug wire. anyone know how?
 

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The Magnificent
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Welcome.
Loosen (do not completely remove) the retaining nut, and you can tap with a rubber hammer while you pull on the flywheel, or go get a cheap puller at an auto parts store.

I doubt you'll be able to replace just the plug wire, but it's worth a look.

Get the model number of the engine and find yourself a manual on the manufacturer's website.
 

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Take nut off of the flywheel that is what that FAN is leave nut at very end of crankshaft what flywheel is bolted to take a hammer and hit the crankshaft real quick but kinda hard and the flywheel should pop up may take a couple of hits but will work
Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. The model number on the engine is tecumseh 610938. I looked on line and can't find anything on it. I took a pic of the top.
 

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Kappa- according to the Sears Parts Direct site, if your engine is the original one, the model number is 143.316092 (Tecumseh). Hope this helps you out.
 

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The Magnificent
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I'd suggest buying or renting a proper puller. Get the puller on there and then tap the flwheel all the way around to loosen up any rust.

If this is a tapered shaft it shouldn't take much force to get it loose.
 

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Kappa- according to the Sears Parts Direct site, if your engine is the original one, the model number is 143.316092 (Tecumseh). Hope this helps you out.
If Scrat2 is right with the model # it is a vm100 #157034c (Tecumseh)
143 is sears #

here is a manual

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
 

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Kappa, if you look under the edge of the flywheel you should see a boss (square raised area of the block). Put a large straight screwdriver , I use a 16" , or small pry bar on the boss and pry up. MAKE SURE THE FLYWHEEL NUT IS ON AND EVEN WITH THE TOP OF THE SHAFT. Then give the nut a sharp blow with a hammer, should pop loose. You can spray PB blaster on it and let it set a couple hours. It helps.

Walter
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Walter. I will try that. I have have some what pulling my teeth out with this one. The bad thing I just had one blow the trans on me, it was a newer one. At the end I just need get something going, that newer one has more problems that I can list.
 

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"e model number on the engine is tecumseh 610938."

"take a hammer and hit the crankshaft real quick but kinda hard and the flywheel should pop up may take a couple of hits but will work"

A large shop kept the broken end of a Tec crankshaft hanging over the work bench to remind them to not do this.

Walt Conner
 

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I have twisted the crank right off ,snapped it in two,by using an air impact wrench to loosen or tighten the flywheel too..its easy to hit the flywheel nut off center and make it go cokeyed on the threads too,ruining the crank..I use a mag wheel lug nut with a 1/2"x20 thread that has an "acorn" closed end on it to whack on with the hammer..

If done skillfully, you can remove a flywheel quite easily withoput a puller using only a hammer,and maybe a pry bar,but even those of us who've done it 100 times still muff up a crank once in awhile..I've had some flywheels so stubborn I had to use a puller AND a torch to heat them up,before they finally popped off with a bang..
 

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Thank you all. I got it off. YEA! But that was not the problem, so I thinking about doing a trans swap with a 4 speed. Maybe, I not sure if it's going to work, old one has a 'H' shift and the new is from side to side. Any thoughts?
 

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Never tried that swap (yet!)...If they used both the 5 speeds with the "straight line" shift pattern (I assume thats what you have) and the 4 speed with the "H" pattern in those style tractors, I dont see why it wouldn't be possible,maybe the only difference is that cover plate over the shifter,----or maybe it would never work period,could be completely different mounting,clutch ,etc....cant tell without seeing it in person!..you can MAKE anything work if your determined enough,but it may or may not be a simple "bolt in" swap..

I once put a manual transaxle in a hydrostatic tractor once--and probably will never do it again--had two identical tractors,one with the 4 speed,blown engine, and one hydrostatic with a good engine--had to put the entire clutch pedal and idler pulley setup and linkage in the hydro tractor,plus the 4 speed,and it was a good thing I had the whole tractor for parts ,otherwise it would have really been a pain to install,I needed every bracket,special bolts,etc--I should have put the good engine in the 4 speed tractor,would have been MUCH easier,but the hydro tractors chassis was mint,the 4 speed one was rusted bad,left outside since day one..took days to get that one going..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys. I have given up on both of them. I was thinking about have a tractor bon fire.



I think I did score a good deal. I got this today for $200.



It's a '95 917.252532, 15hp 42'' deck with the hydro trans. Anything that you guys can tell about this tractor. It's my first hydro one and I think the gear oil has not been changed at all. Is this a hard job? Other then that it runs good, has new blades, and looks like it was inside most of it's life. I hope I can keep this one alive with some TLC.

And the best part of the tractor is the cup holder.:fing32:
 
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