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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 644 years ago, it has been idle because banana plates were unavailable for a period of several years (I didn't know they were back).
SO! I've got my banana plate kit but before I can move the tracto into my shop for the install I need to start it... it has been at least 3 years sitting.
1) change the engine oil
2) new battery
QUESTION: What should I do to the fuel system? Tank, Lines, Filter, Carb
3) I am hoping it is okay to flush the hydraulic system after the banana plate replacement. I want to be sure it solves the travel issues first.

any advice will be greatly appreciated,
Thanks
 

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Pardon my ignorance, but what the heck is a banana plate?

As for the fuel system?.....Yes
Go through and clean everything thoroughly....If it's been sitting, it;s very likely that it is clogged, rusty and dirty.
 

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If you did not drain the gas out of the carb before it was parked, it's likely that there is jello in the carb bowl. A 644, would be a Kohler 14HP single cylinder, lots of parts and advice on those engines around. If the lines and fuel pump are original that all will probably need to be replaced.. What we see often with Ethanol fuel is that it make the inside of rubber fuel line gummy while the outside looks fine. The line may not pass any fuel, even though it looks fine.

A hydro purge on the loaders is involved. it takes 3 gallons of oil to fill the system, and you're looking for a 15w or 20w-40 MOTOR oil to fill the system. Shell Rotilla seems to be commonly used

I would map out the loader drain via a disassembly process as:

1. Remove the loader bucket
2. Raise the loader to max height and support it.
3. 'curl' the 'Bucket' to max - curl cylinder should be fully extended.
4. turn steering such that power steering cylinder is at max extension, fully to the left I believe.
5. Raise 3 point to max height (with NO attachments on it)
6. Shutdown the engine.
7. Disable engine from starting, Remove +12V lead from the ignition coil. (onan coils are know to be fried but cranking the engine with out grounding the spark plugs)
8. Remove drain plug from TCV and put a catch basin under the tractor. (If you have an oil vacuum LiquiVac - Do It Yourself Oil Change System, Oil Change Pump/Vacuum - DO NOT USE A SHOP VAC - Vacuum as much oil as possible from the Reserve tank and the suction lines.)

2450936


9. Turn the engine over with the starter, ensure it does not START or run. Cycle the starter in short 30 second bursts with pauses so the starter can cool. Repeat cycles until no oil comes out the drain plug.
10 Put loader control in Float
11.Remove loader cylinder 'cap end' ala - Lower end lines, and route to catch basin

12 lower loader - Catch oil coming from the lower end of cylinders.

13 Raise loader 1/2 way manually

14 Lower loader a 2nd time (to purge last bit of oil from cylinders)

15. remove bucket cylinder 'cap end' - top hose

16 compress bucket cylinder.

17, remove 3 point "cap end" - lower hose

18 compress 3 point cylinder

19 remove midlift cylinder base end hose

20 compress midlift cylinder
(if you have power steering)
21. remove power steering "cap end" rear hose
22 compress and cycle power steering cylinder to remove oil.

(Granted there may be small amount of oil in still in the lines, but oil also clings to the inside of everything. Therefore a 110% purge would entail some kind of flush of the system..)

Now you can reassemble everything. Add oil to the reservoir, Crank the engine for a few seconds, Top off oil level. Put the wire back on the coil and start the engine. Top off the oil level. Raise loader under power about 1/2 way, top off the oil. Lower loader, check oil, Raise loader to max, top off the oil. Run bucket cylinder 1/2 out, top off the oil, cycle bucket cylinder all of the way, top off the oil. Run 3 point, top off the oil. Run power steering lock to lock 10 times, top off the oii.

A loader's hydraulic system takes over 3 gallons of oil and the reserve tank can not hold all of that at once. Running the tank low on oil is very dangerous for the pump. Therefore keep a close eye on the oil level as you start running - moving things.

Now, the expensive alternative to this process of disassembly - reassembly is to do 3 consecutive drain and refills of the system, which is supposed to replace 90+% of the old oil in the system, but we're talking about around 10 gallons of oil to do that on a loader.. In this case you would drain the reserve tank and crank the engine to pump as much oil out of the system as possible. Then refill the system and run it for several days so all of the oil mixes, then drain again, refill, run for a week, Drain - refill and over 90% of the oil in the system will be new. Taking that approach you will have a lifetime supply of oil for chainsaw bars or oil to feed that oil burning push mower, etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pardon my ignorance, but what the heck is a banana plate?

As for the fuel system?.....Yes
Go through and clean everything thoroughly....If it's been sitting, it;s very likely that it is clogged, rusty and dirty.
The banana plate is part of the forward/reverse steering system. They are a common wear item and when they are worn shifting either is not possible (no forward or reverse, or one but not the other, or lack of power). There was a period of several years when the were not produced or available and that is when I parked my tractor.
When you say "Go through and clean everything thoroughly" ... How do I clean everything? Do I run something through the lines? spray in carb cleaner? My user name include "Novice" for a reason, please assume i am ignorant!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The banana plate is part of the forward/reverse steering system. They are a common wear item and when they are worn shifting either is not possible (no forward or reverse, or one but not the other, or lack of power). There was a period of several years when the were not produced or available and that is when I parked my tractor.
When you say "Go through and clean everything thoroughly" ... How do I clean everything? Do I run something through the lines? spray in carb cleaner? My user name include "Novice" for a reason, please assume i am ignorant!
that was supposed to be "forward/reverse shifting system"
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you did not drain the gas out of the carb before it was parked, it's likely that there is jello in the carb bowl. A 644, would be a Kohler 14HP single cylinder, lots of parts and advice on those engines around. If the lines and fuel pump are original that all will probably need to be replaced.. What we see often with Ethanol fuel is that it make the inside of rubber fuel line gummy while the outside looks fine. The line may not pass any fuel, even though it looks fine.

A hydro purge on the loaders is involved. it takes 3 gallons of oil to fill the system, and you're looking for a 15w or 20w-40 MOTOR oil to fill the system. Shell Rotilla seems to be commonly used

I would map out the loader drain via a disassembly process as:

1. Remove the loader bucket
2. Raise the loader to max height and support it.
3. 'curl' the 'Bucket' to max - curl cylinder should be fully extended.
4. turn steering such that power steering cylinder is at max extension, fully to the left I believe.
5. Raise 3 point to max height (with NO attachments on it)
6. Shutdown the engine.
7. Disable engine from starting, Remove +12V lead from the ignition coil. (onan coils are know to be fried but cranking the engine with out grounding the spark plugs)
8. Remove drain plug from TCV and put a catch basin under the tractor. (If you have an oil vacuum LiquiVac - Do It Yourself Oil Change System, Oil Change Pump/Vacuum - DO NOT USE A SHOP VAC - Vacuum as much oil as possible from the Reserve tank and the suction lines.)

View attachment 2450936

9. Turn the engine over with the starter, ensure it does not START or run. Cycle the starter in short 30 second bursts with pauses so the starter can cool. Repeat cycles until no oil comes out the drain plug.
10 Put loader control in Float
11.Remove loader cylinder 'cap end' ala - Lower end lines, and route to catch basin

12 lower loader - Catch oil coming from the lower end of cylinders.

13 Raise loader 1/2 way manually

14 Lower loader a 2nd time (to purge last bit of oil from cylinders)

15. remove bucket cylinder 'cap end' - top hose

16 compress bucket cylinder.

17, remove 3 point "cap end" - lower hose

18 compress 3 point cylinder

19 remove midlift cylinder base end hose

20 compress midlift cylinder
(if you have power steering)
21. remove power steering "cap end" rear hose
22 compress and cycle power steering cylinder to remove oil.

(Granted there may be small amount of oil in still in the lines, but oil also clings to the inside of everything. Therefore a 110% purge would entail some kind of flush of the system..)

Now you can reassemble everything. Add oil to the reservoir, Crank the engine for a few seconds, Top off oil level. Put the wire back on the coil and start the engine. Top off the oil level. Raise loader under power about 1/2 way, top off the oil. Lower loader, check oil, Raise loader to max, top off the oil. Run bucket cylinder 1/2 out, top off the oil, cycle bucket cylinder all of the way, top off the oil. Run 3 point, top off the oil. Run power steering lock to lock 10 times, top off the oii.

A loader's hydraulic system takes over 3 gallons of oil and the reserve tank can not hold all of that at once. Running the tank low on oil is very dangerous for the pump. Therefore keep a close eye on the oil level as you start running - moving things.

Now, the expensive alternative to this process of disassembly - reassembly is to do 3 consecutive drain and refills of the system, which is supposed to replace 90+% of the old oil in the system, but we're talking about around 10 gallons of oil to do that on a loader.. In this case you would drain the reserve tank and crank the engine to pump as much oil out of the system as possible. Then refill the system and run it for several days so all of the oil mixes, then drain again, refill, run for a week, Drain - refill and over 90% of the oil in the system will be new. Taking that approach you will have a lifetime supply of oil for chainsaw bars or oil to feed that oil burning push mower, etc..
oooof! Thank you sddunt, I think I'll go for the 90% solution
What about the carb?
 

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When you say "Go through and clean everything thoroughly" ... How do I clean everything? Do I run something through the lines? spray in carb cleaner? My user name include "Novice" for a reason, please assume i am ignorant!
I would take it all apart, rebuild kit for carb, fuel pump.....new fuel lines, flush tank.
 
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