Always insulate and vapour barrier living space. With the insulation, only a small (1500 watt) heater will keep it warm unless the outside temp drops below freezing. Even then it should maintain a 35* temperature differential, if you don't let the room cool off from lack of use.
Help guys. Turning my carport into a lounge and want some advice
Hey guys. I am turning my 18x20 carport into a lounge for the guys to watch games and hangout. I will put a flatscreen in there and putting a satellite reciever in it, tables and chairs and stuff. I am not going to run ac or anything in it. Its just an inexpensive thing to hangout and stuff. Will run lights and stuff in it also. Is there a need to put insulation in it if I am not going to run central heating and air? I will most likely get a space heater, large enuff to heat it good, and a nice size fan or fans for the summer. It will have a garage door on front and in the rear a regular exterior door. I am not putting panels or anything on the inside as of right now. I just closed in the outside with osb and am gona put vinyl siding on maybe next week. It is a carport that the people come setup. Eagle carport is the name I think that did mine bout 6 yrs or so ago.
Any help and tidbits would be appreciated.
Also would it be best to go with an electrical space heater or what as far as cost effectiveness on the light bill, ect?
Any help and tidbits would be appreciated.
Also would it be best to go with an electrical space heater or what as far as cost effectiveness on the light bill, ect?
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Three words: Refrigerator, refrigerator, refrigerator! :trink39: Hmmmm, I didn't know you got Patriots games in SC. :fing32:
if its just a 3-season 'porch',and money is an issue,then i wouldnt worry about insulating right now,it can be done later...but i would strongly recommend you insulate before panelling the interior...you definitely wanna use a vapor barrier,Tyvek or whatever,under the siding...you will regret it if you dont
what type of floor do you have?im guessing concrete? be sure to use pressure treated lumber where in contact with concrete,or in close proximity to dirt,a foam 'sill seal' is also recommended on concrete
be aware of local building codes and try to comply with them...even if you are "sneaking it in",,,(most are for your own good)
Got Pics??:wwp:
good luck and have fun with it
what type of floor do you have?im guessing concrete? be sure to use pressure treated lumber where in contact with concrete,or in close proximity to dirt,a foam 'sill seal' is also recommended on concrete
be aware of local building codes and try to comply with them...even if you are "sneaking it in",,,(most are for your own good)
Got Pics??:wwp:
good luck and have fun with it
concrete floor yes. Are you talking about that white wrap stuff and will it attach to the osb before I put on the vinyl? Also is it for water protection or for what? And what is a foam sill seal and would it lie on top of the concrete or what?if its just a 3-season 'porch',and money is an issue,then i wouldnt worry about insulating right now,it can be done later...but i would strongly recommend you insulate before panelling the interior...you definitely wanna use a vapor barrier,Tyvek or whatever,under the siding...you will regret it if you dont
what type of floor do you have?im guessing concrete? be sure to use pressure treated lumber where in contact with concrete,or in close proximity to dirt,a foam 'sill seal' is also recommended on concrete
be aware of local building codes and try to comply with them...even if you are "sneaking it in",,,(most are for your own good)
Got Pics??:wwp:
good luck and have fun with it
I dont see paneling it right now at all as I have some other projects i will be working on as well. Will try and post a pic in a few
a picture tells a thousand words...i had envisioned it as attached to the house and being converted to living space...now i see it as a 'clubhouse' for the boys to hang out and have a few...
yes,tyvek is the wrap you staple to the outside of the OSB...made for drafts and moisture protection...i recommend using it,mainly to prevent mold and rot to the OSB...there are many brands available,and not extremely expensive...
you can probably get by without the sill seal,but it wouldnt hurt either...mainly for air infiltration..its used between the concrete and lumber
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when you close in the front,i would highly recommend PT lumber for the bottom plate,to prevent rot from ground contact
yes,tyvek is the wrap you staple to the outside of the OSB...made for drafts and moisture protection...i recommend using it,mainly to prevent mold and rot to the OSB...there are many brands available,and not extremely expensive...
you can probably get by without the sill seal,but it wouldnt hurt either...mainly for air infiltration..its used between the concrete and lumber
when you close in the front,i would highly recommend PT lumber for the bottom plate,to prevent rot from ground contact
Instead of sill seal, the foam that goes under the ''click'' type of laminate flooring is very similar, if not as thick, and it comes in 6' widths, not 6'' widths like sill seal.
I, too, was envisioning an attached carport.
I, too, was envisioning an attached carport.
i have a question in regards to pressure treated lumber. I made a ramp for my mustang out of treated 2x6's and has been on the ground since 01. Now one of the ramps is rotting. The bottom front piece is rotting and my question is should it have started to rot if it is treated lumber but was on the ground for 9 yrs?Instead of sill seal, the foam that goes under the ''click'' type of laminate flooring is very similar, if not as thick, and it comes in 6' widths, not 6'' widths like sill seal.
I, too, was envisioning an attached carport.
Even if I am going to put vinyl siding on, Would the vinyl provide enuff protection to keep the osb from rotting? Both you guys can chime in by the way . Thanks
The OSB rotting? Depends on if moisture will wick up from the concrete to your bottom framing, whish is why the guys recommended installing a sill seal (a 6" wide closed cell foam roughly 1/4" thick uncompressed, that comes in rolls, might be known as Termite barrier in your neck of the woods)
so that foam thing would just need to overlap the bottom and sides of the osb and 2x4's? Just enuff of what the actual concrete is touching so probably about an inch or 2 up the sides of the osb?The OSB rotting? Depends on if moisture will wick up from the concrete to your bottom framing, whish is why the guys recommended installing a sill seal (a 6" wide closed cell foam roughly 1/4" thick uncompressed, that comes in rolls, might be known as Termite barrier in your neck of the woods)
For some reason concrete and wood are not buddies and there needs to be a break between them. As far as going up the side of the OSB, even only an inch or two, that will trap moisture running down the wall and therefore offers no protection from rot. Keep it flat until you're ready to put the vinyl on. Around here, standard practice is to put a row of concrete block and sill seal and then build the wall giving an 8'' break from the ground to the wood. Saves a lot of aggravation down the road. To do that you would have to raise the steel track, which serves the same purpose as the sill foam, at the bottom of the wall. How long you are going to use it for that purpose will dictate whether that is worth the effort. For 5 or 6 years, do it cheap. If you expect to use it longer, do it right.so that foam thing would just need to overlap the bottom and sides of the osb and 2x4's? Just enuff of what the actual concrete is touching so probably about an inch or 2 up the sides of the osb?
:sorry1:, my comment about the underlay was for an anticipated deck type floor. After rereading the posts, I found no mention of a built up floor. Please disregard that post.
Pressure treated wood buried part way in the ground does have a limited life before rot sets in, although I've pulled a non-pressure treated chunk of 2x4 out of the ground that was in excellent shape after 20+ years, probably because it was totally buried and the air couldn't get at it. I would expect PT wood to last longer than 9 years, but I've never had occassion to try. I know that red cedar posts are pretty well junk at 14 years and douglas fir lasts a looong time when laid on the ground in my yard. I have a ramp going into a storage shed that is 5 years old and the plywood top is done already. When I change the top I'll have to check the PT wood structure underneath.
I forgot I have about 4 rolls of that black paper that they put on before the shingles go on. I saw this guy putting on a porch at my uncles house and he was wrapping the osb with that and said that is all I would need to put on before putting on the vinyl. would that paper need to go on the inside of the osb as well? I doubt i will be putting on any paneling or anything anytime soon by the way.a picture tells a thousand words...i had envisioned it as attached to the house and being converted to living space...now i see it as a 'clubhouse' for the boys to hang out and have a few...
yes,tyvek is the wrap you staple to the outside of the OSB...made for drafts and moisture protection...i recommend using it,mainly to prevent mold and rot to the OSB...there are many brands available,and not extremely expensive...
you can probably get by without the sill seal,but it wouldnt hurt either...mainly for air infiltration..its used between the concrete and lumber View attachment 126170
when you close in the front,i would highly recommend PT lumber for the bottom plate,to prevent rot from ground contact
No need for that black paper inside, it will do some good on the outside protecting the OSB.
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