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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went out to change the oil on my GT 5000, Brigs 24 HP engine. As you can see in the included picture, I can't get the plug to unscrew far enough to allow the oil to drain. That's as far as it goes before it hits the engine mount bracket. What do I do now?? I can't tell you how frustrating it is dealing with design flaws like this!!! Why couldn't they just put the oil drain plug in a more accesable place??? Man do I get frustrated dealing with crap like this. It should have taken me all of five minutes to change the oil and filter, and now an hour later here I sit waiting for one of you guys to rescue me!! Sorry for the rant, but any suggestions sure would be appreciated! Thanks, Jeff.
 

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Premium Member
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10,259 Posts
Without taking an angle grinder to the frame, can you remove that whole oil plug assembly and replace it with a regular plug? Other than that, looks like you will need to loosed the engine mount bolts and raise the engine a 1/2" or so. Wow what a PITA. I would look at a way to add some NPT thred pipe and fittings (through the frame) after I had lifted the engine to git that POS out.
 

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1.Can you turn the "block" that the plug is on tighter to allow the plug more room?
2. saws all to frame :drunkie:
3. worked fine on paper I bet
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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15,199 Posts
looks like an oversight, or they stripped out the original plug and put that one in as a quick fix.
 

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Yes, don't panic! Especially if this is an all-original setup.
There are usually plugs on both sides of the engine. Sears often adds on a quick-release device (usually yellow) so you don't even need a wrench (but this won't "look" like a plug).
Not to overstate the obvious, but have you checked to see what the manual shows?
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yup, thanks for all of the replies guys. After posting this and having a cigarette to relax and blow off some steam, I did in fact remove the whole plug which allowed me to drain it. Oil all over the place, but at least I was able to change it. I also thought about getting the "block" part screwed in tighter as well, which should have given me enough clearance to unscrew the 7/16 plug, but couldn't get in there with a vice grips to do so. I could only get it to where it is now. It doesn't leak, but it sure feels like I could get one more turn out of it if I was just able to get in there with something. But thanks for all of the help guys, I truely appreciate it. This forum is the best!!!
 

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200 Posts
First thing I would do is take that plug assembly out and see how far I could throw it. Replace it with a reg. plug or a 90 degree elbow with a plug in it or your going to have the same problem next time. :trink40:
 

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Blank Space
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3,191 Posts
Which engine do you have? Mine is a 24HP VTwin Intek and it has a drain hose from the fitting that goes up to a yellow plastic cap. Lay the hose down, open the cap and let it flow.


But it's also mounted on a flat surface and not below a frame member.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
All good ideas guys, thanks!!! I'm going to rig something with a piece of rubber tubing on it with a easy turn clamp on the end of it (can't think of the correct term, sorry), so that from now on I can just turn the valve and let the oil out. Thanks again.
 

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Which engine do you have? Mine is a 24HP VTwin Intek and it has a drain hose from the fitting that goes up to a yellow plastic cap. Lay the hose down, open the cap and let it flow.


But it's also mounted on a flat surface and not below a frame member.
This is exactly what I changed mine to. Parts were about $18 for the hoes and the fitting into the block. Works great!
 
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