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Three of my friends
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9,344 Posts
Have you or anyone else ever used fiberglass over metal for dent filling repairs and is it a good alternative to plastic body fillers?
It won’t work,nothing for fiberglass to hold onto,
Primer ewill shrink and not crack if thick ,paint won’t,so it cracks.
If there’s a big crack the product will work but you get the same product if you cut up fiberglass into tiny pieces and mix it wire resin,I’ve done that,it is just a rough finish that needs to be worked thin.

fiberglass work has never hanged,same now as ur was 40 years ago.
I worked at an aircraft plant once and an instructor told us in 40 years airplanes would be glued together but no one would fly on a glued together airplane so we will say they are bonded together,NOW there are a number of planes glued together.
What you are using now is the best you can get
 
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Premium Member
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2,700 Posts
I have done some repairs on engine shrouds with fiberglass. Probably done 1/2 dozens over the years and not had as problem.






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EEE69
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90 Posts
I am a retired college teacher. Most recently I taught in a workforce developement program at a local community college. I was an instructor in the Collision Repair certification program. We have been successfully using fiberglass strand ( both short and long strand) fillers very successfully on metal panels for more than 30 years. These were commonly referred to as" kitty hair"; although that specific name is associated with a specific brand; it has become much like the the name Kleenex being used to refer to all facial tissue. Nevertheless, " glass strand fillers" ( as I prefer to call them ) are the choice for areas where " water proofing" is required "Bondo"( another brand name now used generically for polyester body filler) has talc ( yes, like talcum powder) as a bulk enhancer. That fact makes it very susceptible to being degraded by water intrusion. That is why stranded fillers are preferred if there is any chance that moisture cannot be completely prevented from reaching the filled area. Lately, even Kevlar and other high strength stranded fibers have been added to polyester based fillers to enhance the strength and longevity of " body filler" productsts. These products are excellent when used for their intended purpose, but they have one thing in common and that is they all need a cover coat of either " Bondo" or polyester glazing putty to produce a finely finished surface because the " stranded filler" surface tends to be too rough to be easily finished smooth enough for application of even filler primer. Bottom line; stranded fillers are stronger,more waterproof, less prone to cracking than standard talc based polyester fillers, but they are more expensive. If you are filling dings and dents use " Bondo" always in less than 1/8" thickness. Metal work the panel so you don't need more thickness. If you are filling around a welded in panel, or across a butt welded repair or a blind hole that could get water intrusion then use " stranded filler"first, and finish with " Bondo" to get the panel ready for primer and paint.
 

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Rebuilding my First JD GT
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3,414 Posts
Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Good info guys thank you :)

I think I will try my best to stay away from Kevlar anything. Yikes that stuff is very toxic in the body as well. I would not want those dust fibers being anywhere near me, my driveway, back yard, garage etc.
 

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EEE69
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90 Posts
Regardless of what materials you use for repair and refinishing, you should use proper PPE. It is required in our classes. I have observed proper protective protocols since I started in 1974. I'm 74 years old and have no pulmonary issues whatsoever. Many of my contemporaries eschewed PPE as not " manly".They are dead or seriously ill with COPD. This is not intended to be a political statement; but a general cautionary tale. Virtually all of the materials used in collision repair and refinishing are toxic to some extent( the talc filler in " Bondo" has a trace amount of asbestos, sanding it makes it " friable" (not good for anyone!)). Check out the material composition sheets ( safety sheets) that are required to be provided by the manufactures to users. Use Recommended PPE and work safely. It facilitates longevity!
 

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Rebuilding my First JD GT
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3,414 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·
So far I have been doing all wet sanding, so no airborne particulates per say. I try to put a mask on but do not use it every time when rattle can painting but I quickly pull my shirt over my face when I do smell paint and realize I should be wearing a respirator.
 

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2,276 Posts
N2, EVERYTHING in the world can be hazardous to your health! Water is essential to life and you can't live without it, but have someone hold your head underwater for 10 or 15 minutes and then see how healthy you feel!

Each material that has been classified as a "Hazardous Material" have gone through extensive testing and have limits applied to them. These limits state how much of a material you can be exposed to, usually expressed in parts per million or parts per billion, and how long you can be exposed to that material, expressed in hours. Without expensive testing equipment for each hazardous material that you may be exposed to, it's all kind of playing it by ear and using common sense! If your spraying "something" and start feeling light headed, you're reaching your limit, so stop. If you're washing "something" with solvent and start to itch or develop a rash, stop and/or use PPE. It's all that simple!

I don't know your age, but you're still here so you must be doing something right! Keep doing it and enjoy the fruits of your labor! Bob
 
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Rebuilding my First JD GT
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I turn 50 soon this year. Have never felt light headed from fumes thank God. I have blown or cleaned out dark or black buggers though many times using angle grinders etc.
 

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Rebuilding my First JD GT
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3,414 Posts
Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Taking a brake for Halloween props display set up. Takes a couple of days to set up and a day or so to take down and put away.
 
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