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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally have all of the parts for my headlight button and electric hydro fan button. Pushbuttons are Apem IP latching series (sealed to IP67). Specifically, IPR1SAD5LOS (yellow plunger, red LED). Button label panels are 1.5mm thick aluminum, anodized black with yellow-filled engraving.
These two are going into the indicator panel on either side of the LCD/indicators. Buttons were $21.22 each from Mouser. Label panels were roughly $20 each from Front Panel Express.



I'm using Panasonic sealed 20A relays with mounting tabs, and also using relay bases so I can easily remove the harness. Relays were $6.49 each, bases for them (with terminals) were $1.75. Both from Eastern Beaver.



AMP sealed Mini Universal Mate-n-Lok connectors for the pushbuttons (pins and sockets not shown). Parts per connection... one AMP 794805-1 plug, one AMP 794939-1 cap (receptacle), one AMP 794772-4 interface seal, eight AMP 794758-1 cavity wire seals, four AMP 171638-1 20-16AWG pins, four AMP 171639-1 20-16AWG sockets.



Full-size AMP sealed Universal Mate-n-Lok connectors will be used for the hydro fan. I haven't taken pictures of the 2-pole ones I have, but here's a picture of some of the 3-pole and 4-pole I use for automotive.



Hydro fan is a Spal 5.6" puller. 295 CFM in free air, a little less when I put a wire grill on it. Draws 2.5 amps of current. This will let me cool the hydro regardless of whether the tractor is moving and not at the mercy of engine RPM. $55 from a1electric.com



I'm putting a new set of fuses in for headlights, snowthrower lights (pair of 500 lumen LED), rear work light (1400 lumen LED) and hydro fan. I've got some of these Metri-Pack sealed 3-fuse ATM holders and single fuse ATM holders from Eastern Beaver:



 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The pushbuttons look nice from the driver seat once installed.



If someone wants to use an Apem IP pushbutton to trip a relay for something, I'll post the Front Panel Express design file. It's a trivial design and their software is easy to use, but if it saves someone else some time, I'm happy to help.

The Apem IP pushbuttons are very high quality. Hence the somewhat high price, but they're worth it for low-current applications. Dustproof and submersible to 1 meter. The latching ones and rated for 200,000 cycles at 100mA (10,000 cycles at 2A), the momentary ones are rated at 500,000 cycles at 500mA. I've never had one die on me and I've been using them for various things for many years. They make square ones too, as well as ones with no LED.
 

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hummm the hydro fan sounds like a real nice mod dwm, I'm sure a lot of folks will want to see how you do that...

...and that goes for the electrical too. Those push buttons are so clean.:trink39:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hummm the hydro fan sounds like a real nice mod dwm, I'm sure a lot of folks will want to see how you do that...
I'm assuming that it's much easier on tractors like mine with the fuel tank up front than those with the tank in the rear. There's a lot of space forward and above the hydro, hence a lot of room for air to be moved. I personally don't like the fuel tank in front for a number of reasons, but space for an auxiliary hydro cooling fan is an upside.

...and that goes for the electrical too. Those push buttons are so clean.:trink39:
Thanks!

The pushbuttons did turn out rather nicely, I think I'll be using Front Panel Express more often (this was my first order with them). I put my calipers on the pieces they made and they're exact in all dimensions, including the somewhat odd-sized hole (13.6 mm).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I finally got around to adding my dash lighting so I can see my button labels in the dark when throwing snow. It is dark before I get home from work in the winter, hence all the lighting work in preparation for throwing snow.

5mm Cree white LEDs (C513A-WSN-CV0Y0151 from Digi-Key) with panel holders (SSH-LX5091 from Digi-Key). 549 ohm high-temperature current-limiting resistor in series with each LED, and then all LED/resistor pairs wired in parallel (so if one dies, I don't lose all of them).

First picture is with the headlights off, second is with the headlights on (headlight button LED lights up). Apparently I accidentally bumped the ISO up to 800 on the second shot, sorry about that. I had the headlight bulbs disconnected while taking these pictures so I wouldn't drain my battery, hence the lack of light in front of the tractor (hood is open too).



 

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That is awesome! I wish I had the electrical knowlegde to do that to my two older cub cadets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is awesome! I wish I had the electrical knowlegde to do that to my two older cub cadets.
For the dash lighting, does this diagram help?



On the LEDs themselves, the longer leg is the positive (wired to the resistors in my diagram). That'd be the left one in this picture of the LED:



The resistors were part number CMF549HFCT-ND from Digi-Key.

My 12V source here is a hot line that's only hot in run and start (headlight source on the newer tractors is fine).

The LED holders look like this:



Installation is easy; drill a 1/4" hole, insert the LED holder, push the LED into it from behind.
 

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wow, nice work!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's a diagram of the wiring for the headlight button.



Here's where I mounted the relay, using the relay's mounting tab. I'm just using the existing screw for the headlight housing. The relay tab is kinda flimsy while also being a material that I don't think will handle a bunch of bend cycles. I might cut it off and just VHB tape the relay to the underside of the headlight housing.



Pushbutton during test fitment, from the back of the dash. I put a precision shim washer under the jam nut, I think it's a 1mm thick 12mm ID. I always use these shim washers when installing Apem IP pushbuttons in plastic panels so I don't chew up the back of the panel wnehn tightening the jam nut.



The AMP sealed Universal Mini Mate-N-Lok connectors.

 
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