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Head Gasket project coming up?

8713 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Tencubed
I have about 25 hours of use on my Ford 3000 since I purchased it. I am noticing after working her hard I get some oil seeping out on the left side in between the head and the block. My question is how difficult of a project will this be? I have done plenty of external repairs, but no internal repairs. Looking thru my shop manual it looks like it will involve; removing the rocker arm cover, rocker arm assembly (3-4 bolts and the assembly will lift out whole?), unbolt the head and remove? What about pistons and such? Drop the oil pan and unbolt them from below?
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i'll tell you one thing for sure, you don't need to pull the pistons to do a head gasket! though, if you have it apart, it might make sense to do all the gaskets, rings, valves, etc..? depends on how well/badly it's running. also, i'm no expert, but i don't think the rockers, valves, etc need to be taken off the head in order to remove the head.

Before you go taking it apart you might try re-torquing the head, probably won't stop it but you never know. Personally if is only a seep after a long hard run that is what I would do and just run it. Now if you must tear it down because it is bothering you that much then a simple off with its head and clean should be a days job depending on how many beer break you take. I am not sure about your 3000 but you have the basic idea on how to do it.

Nothing need be done to your pistons and liners unless you are going to do a complete rebuild. When the head comes off place rags on top of the pistons before you start to clean the old gasket residue from the deck. You do not anything to get on them or go down to your rings to act like sanding grit.

When you start to put it back together be sure to use a sealer on the gasket, I recommend either grease or a light coat of paint. Torque the bolts in the correct pattern, take the torque up in stages 1/3 max value then 2/3 then the final. Repeat each stage until ALL are holding the same torque before moving up to the next value. When ALL the bolts are holding the same max torque then replace your rocker arm and adjust the valves, I like to run though all the valves and set them then re-run them after the engine has been rotated 2 or 3 times. Last thing is the valve cover, I basically just set it on then run the engine up to temp let it cool, re-torque the head and re-run the valves one more time. Then put the valve cover on for the last time and consider it done.
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Thanks TMM and John,
I don't know why I thought I would have to pull the pistons.
I was thinking of re-torquing the head and seeing what that would do. I ran it today for a couple hours at half to 3/4 throttle and no new seepage. Like I was saying I have to push her hard before I get any seepage. Usually box blade/dirt work in hard packed dirt. Bushhog and mowing is pretty much a breeze.
I was hoping to just monitor fluids thru the rest of the season and pull the head when things slow down.
If I get a chance I will take a picture and post it here. With the dust, the oil seepage really shows.
My tractor was down for about six months and it seeped coolant from the head gasket when I got it running again.

Re-torque the head bolts and give it some time. Mine stopped seeping and never gave me a problem since (18 years ago). You might get lucky!!
Good advice given but I'd follow the head gasket manufacturers directions about using a sealer. It's been a long time since I saw one that said to use a sealant. Some of the old ones suggested a thin coat of a hard sealer but that stopped, at least the last one I saw, probably 25 years ago.

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