My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As many of you know I started my rebuild/restoration yesterday. I want to get the engine running before I totally dismantle the tractor. I put a fresh battery in it and jumped the solonoid so the engine turned over, I had to do that because mu ignition is seized up from rust. I jumped the ignition as well to simulate the key being on. I have power coming up to the coil (tested this via a testlight) but no spark so i thought I had a bad coil. I went and bought a new coil but still no plug spark, or if I do get a spark it is really weak.
I cleaned the points really well and if I touch the points with a screwdriver it sparks so I know I have a spark there but still no spark up top. any ideas or wys to diagnose everything?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
This is the condenser? what does it do?
I thought it was a resistor or noise surpressor or something

 

·
aardvark161
Joined
·
65 Posts
It is basically a temporary storage device for electricity. The condenser is a simple capacitor that can store a small amount of current. When the points begin to open, the current flowing through the points looks for an alternative path to ground. If the condenser were not there, it would try to jump across the gap of the points as they begin to open. If this were allowed to happen, the points would quickly burn up. To prevent this, the condenser acts like a path to ground. It really is not, but by the time the condenser is saturated, the points are too far apart for the small amount of voltage to jump across the wide point gap. Since the arcing across the opening points is eliminated, the points last longer.
 

·
aardvark161
Joined
·
65 Posts
some will, but will ruin the points in no time, is your condenser on the neg side of the coil with the points...

LOL at Neil j
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If your just testing the engine it should not hurt anything to remove it...
I am trying to get it running before I totally remove it from the frame for the rebuild.
Would a condensor be available at the auto parts store? If so are they all the same or is there a cross reference part no.?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well I figured it out. First I put the old coil back in ( I had bought a new one), put everything back to square one except adding a new plug. For some reason, which I figured out later, the engine wasn't turning over very fast nor was I getting a strong spark. What I had done was hook up jumper cables to a car battery and then to the original positive and negative cables from the tractor. I figured that the old cables that were "grounded" to the tractor were not getting a new ground so I looked at the ignition diagram in fig. 8-3 from the Kohler service manual and hooked my positve from the battery right to the positive on the coil, I added some gas down inside the spark plug hole, cranked her over and bam, she fired for about 3-4 seconds. No knocks or anything, and that was all I wanted to hear- that it actually has the capability of running as is. Apparently all the rust and corrosion between the grounds and the positive power going through the ignition, starter solonoind etc wasnt enough juice to get her going.
I continued with the teardown which I added more in my other thread.
I am going to buy a "tune up kit" Coil, condenser, plug and wire and also a carb tune up kit.
I am not going to rebuild the engine at this time. I want to do the whole tractor then take the engine off and have it rebuilt professionally.
Thanks all for your help.
 

·
aardvark161
Joined
·
65 Posts
great news Jay, kohler engines are built to last and near bullet proof as long as the oils been changed, look forward to the picks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Kbeitz, dont want to steal the thread but whats the tractor 3rd from left?
Looks like a rear engine Gravely.

Back on topic. I rarely have found an old tractor that hasn't been rewired with a bad cobble job. IF it turns over but won't start then I use new fuel, replace the spark plug, and check the air filter. Just go through and eliminate one thing at a time. It's almost always electrical unless the carb jets are rusty and its not getting fuel and then you will still probably find something electrical after fixing that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I actually did get it to fire by pouring a bit of fuel into the plug hole and connecting my battery right to the starter. I was originally hooking my jumper cables that were hooked to the battery on one end and connecting the other end to the pos and neg cables on the tractor but the ground was all corroded so once I hooked the cables right to the starter she spun fast enough to turn over. It ran for a few seconds until it ran out of gas. I will be sending the carb out for a complete rebuild to a place called Brian Millers small engines as I want new throttle shaft bushings installed as well.
I am also planning on buying new voltage regulator and starter solonoid as well
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top