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Discussion Starter #1
I asked my friends this question before I had my garage rebuilt and got some good information. This forum provides a lot more potential good advice.

I am going to have a pole building built (30' by 48' by 13' 4" (eave) with a concrete floor). I plan to have a heated workshop in a portion of it 15' by 20'. I know what doors I want. I was just wondering, if based upon your experience, that you wish you done something differently either in building it, or in contract specifications with the builder.
 

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Run water and sewer lines now!
 

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Toppdogg has a great idea. OK, I probably would not run sewer lines, but water, power, cable, and phone would be a great idea. You may not need them now, but I bett you want them later!!
 

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Wrap the bottom part of the posts to ground level with about 6 turns of 6 mil poly to prevent them from frost jacking. It prevents the frost from grabbing the sides of the posts.

Drive lots of nails into the bottom part for the concrete at the base to form a club foot.
 

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I put PVC pipe i the foundation wall of my garage,for future electrical wiring --but so far I still aint found enough cash to wire it--at least I wont have to make a hole in the conrete..

I wish I'd have put radiant heat tubing in the floor ,at least in the area a lift was not going to be put in--could have used a wood stove to heat a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and had a warm floor to work on..a sink,toilet and shower would have bbeen great,but would have added 5K to the cost!..
 

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regardless of your intended purpose for the building,you should pre-plan for as much as you can afford to because you may decide to use it for a completely different use someday...radiant heat is a great idea...and not a real big investment for just the pex...cap it off and if you ever put in outdoor wood boiler or something,youre all set...electrical conduit is a definite must...and a floor drain could come in handy...and last,if you think you might EVER want to use it for living space, stub a sewer line. good luck on your project


jon
 

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I wish the po of my garage had spent the $20.00, and put plastic under the cement floor. A small price to pay to prevent moisture spots.

I agree with the other advice too.

Good luck.


Tom
 

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Wrap the bottom part of the posts to ground level with about 6 turns of 6 mil poly to prevent them from frost jacking. It prevents the frost from grabbing the sides of the posts.

Drive lots of nails into the bottom part for the concrete at the base to form a club foot.
I am not sure that can ever really be prevented since the frost will still jack up on the skirt boards.
 

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I love building pole barns! As a lot of you know I also love the barter system. The last barn, I don't count my time I put up for less then nothing. Nor do I build a building then can be bought at the Home Depot, I saw my own.
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all of the good ideas. I have decided to go with a Cleary Building. Our township just had the local Cleary crew put up a building recently and they did an excellent job.

I ilked the idea of the slide by door on the inside, but since I will have a roll up door and a slide by on the same side, the slide by will have to be on the outside due to a lack of room. I will seldom use the slide by.

I am having a slightly higher pitched roof than normal and am having the trusses built to 80 lbs per SI for snow purposes. Given that it will be mostly unheated, the snow doesn't usually slide off according to people that I have talked to, even with a very steep roof. It isn't unusual for us to have no above freezing temperatures from mid December to mid March. I do have 24" overhangs on all sides so that the snow doesn't screw up the building when it does fall. Unfortunately drains just freeze up in the winter time due to the extreme cold, but I will probably have one put in.

I am going to put in an electrical service for the building with its own meter. Many of you said have water and sewer which I would love to have, but given the extreme cold here, I would have to expend a lot of money on heat to keep things from freezing up.

The building will be 30 by 48 x 13 1/2. with a concrete floor. I will have a 15' by 24' workshop within which I will finish myself. I will have to think about how to heat that portion. Anyway the Cleary cost will be $26,000 with me doing the site preparation. I suspect that finishing the workshop, heat source and electrical hookup will add another $10,000. I am going to have Cleary do their work around August 20, which should allow me enough time to finish the inside before it gets real cold up here.

I have not signed any contracts yets so I still welcome your ideas. Their salesman told me business was down 25%, so it is a buyer's market here and they are anxiously awaiting my business.
 

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No need to hook up water and sewer now just plumb it for everything you may think you would want some day.
 

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I love building pole barns! As a lot of you know I also love the barter system. The last barn, I don't count my time I put up for less then nothing. Nor do I build a building then can be bought at the Home Depot, I saw my own.
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:eek:mg: It's the elusive Slidshod Pole Barn! Last time I saw this thing, it was less than 1/4 completed. That was about 4 years ago! How about some more pics of it? I loved the running tally on how much you were getting paid to build that thing!:duh:
 

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The pole barn now has its upper mirror glass windows installed and three out of four doors on it. It is so full of lumber from the sawmill it is hard to get back at it to finish it!
 

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I put up a 36 x 48 x 12 1/2 two years ago. I put in a 12 x 12 overhead door even though the largest thing in there is my truck. I also upgraded to a 48" service door. Kinda nice to drive the blower out the side door when its sub-zero rather than opening the big door and losing heat.
 

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I am building a 36X36 Pole Bldg Garage/Boat Shop. I have had help on a few minor details. My concrete guy is also my helper when I need an extra pair of hands. He helped me set the poles etc. He has years of experience with pole bldge. He did something I had never heard of. We cut 5' lengths of rebar (1/2") he bored a 1/2" hole below concrete level in each pole and and stuck in the 5' pieces and bent them into a "V" shape sticking out into the floor area. Also ran one rebar across the edge of each garage door each end stuck into the poles on each side. The concrete was ordered with fiber glas mixed in. We laid a floor drain in between each car parking area midway and ran it out the side. Have 3 drains, all conected together. We just got the trusses for the roof yesterday.

Cleary Bldg is horribly expensive. I will have mine done for half or less than what they want. Mine right now I expect to finish for under $6000.

Here are pics:

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/571854289RZQefQ

Here is a very good book that gave me the confidence to do it my self.

http://www.easybuildings.com/
 

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I am building a 36X36 Pole Bldg Garage/Boat Shop. I have had help on a few minor details. My concrete guy is also my helper when I need an extra pair of hands. He helped me set the poles etc. He has years of experience with pole bldge. He did something I had never heard of. We cut 5' lengths of rebar (1/2") he bored a 1/2" hole below concrete level in each pole and and stuck in the 5' pieces and bent them into a "V" shape sticking out into the floor area. Also ran one rebar across the edge of each garage door each end stuck into the poles on each side. The concrete was ordered with fiber glas mixed in. We laid a floor drain in between each car parking area midway and ran it out the side. Have 3 drains, all conected together. We just got the trusses for the roof yesterday.

Cleary Bldg is horribly expensive. I will have mine done for half or less than what they want. Mine right now I expect to finish for under $6000.

Here are pics:

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/571854289RZQefQ

Here is a very good book that gave me the confidence to do it my self.

http://www.easybuildings.com/
Rebar thru the posts isn't a good idea
 

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If I were to build another pole building, I wouldn't. What I mean is, if the building were closed in, I would build slab-on-grade. I'd only do a pole shed if it isn't closed in and I didn't want cross-bracing needed to prevent racking.

On my open pole shed, I isolated the slab from the poles by putting closed-cell foam sill gasket between the poles and the concrete. That way, the slab can float up and down and not grab the poles.
 

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After he did that, I have since found out that it is quite common to do it that way here in Iowa. The poles were all set 60" deep on top of cookies made of concrete and then concreted in place. Frost depth here is 40-48" deep. The one thing you don't see here in Iowa is pole buildings heaving out of the ground. You just see them disapearing during TORNADOS. Then the concrete and rebar don't matter.

Cheers,

Tom...
 
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