have to adjust the valves tight to get it to start...will that hurt ??

craftsmanmowerfreak said:

sounds to me like the lobes are wore on the cam if you have to get them tighter than specs

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Yea either that or the decompression device is junk...again I am wondering what it will hurt running it this way..it starts and runs this way..power seems fine...I hear valve clatter but nothing else sounds abnormal

all you got to do is remove engine from tractor (drain opil first. make sure pulley comes off remove valve cover remove pushrods. then unbolt oil pan and slide cam out and buy a replacement cam and new seals and reverse steps to put it back together except when u put cam in make sure timing marks line up

another hint take pictures and look around while your in there look at the bore make sure no major scoring has been done to it from abuse. make sure the counterweights are not cracked (i have seen that before and it took out a block when the counterwieght broke). make sure you scrape all old gaskets off.

craftsmanmowerfreak said:

all you got to do is remove engine from tractor (drain opil first. make sure pulley comes off remove valve cover remove pushrods. then unbolt oil pan and slide cam out and buy a replacement cam and new seals and reverse steps to put it back together except when u put cam in make sure timing marks line up

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so no messing with the crank or pistons ?? Also if it is the decomression device is that on the new cam too ?? How much would the cam and seals run aprox ?? Is there a detailed list of how to do this ?? Thank you

you can look at briggs site for prices of parts. it shouldnt be more than 100 for the parts. and yes you dont have the mess with the piston or connecting rod at all. us here at mtf will guide you through the process if you find more wrong. has long has it dont knock you should be fine with just putting a cam in it. and i dont know if the compression release comes on a new cam or not you would have to ask bill for that. i have not had to replace a cam in a ohv engine yet. but i have rebuilt a few

It could be the valve guides have some wear,so when the valves go to open,they get shoved sideways in the guide before actually moving,that will "delay" the valve opening and act the same as having too much tappet lash..this might be why it has to be set "tight" to start,yet your still hearing valve clatter or tappet noises..

The compression release could be shot too,only one way to find out,tear it apart and check the cam and see..might as well check the valve guides too,no sense in leaving one thing loose while replacing another...personally if the tractor isn't worth that much to you,I would just run it as-is,it will probably last longer than you think--and either scrap it when she blows,or find a good used engine off another one and swap it on..

To answer your question about running the valves too tight will damage occur, possibly what could happen is when the engine gets to operating temp the push rods will expand this will cause the valves to not close completely this will lead to burning of the valve and valve seat so yes it can be harmful.
Have you tried another starter it could be a bad starter.