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· Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started looking for transmission oil leak on the 332 and removed the belly screen and HOLY COW what a mess inside.The tractor is 90 model and I suspect it has never had the screen off but the non JD filter suggests different but it is GROSS.
While at JD Dealer I spied a NEW seat in the trash and asked the Manager what was wrong with it and he said the bottom was stripped out and if you won't if haul it off.My F525 needed a new seat so I took it and the seat cover screws off the base and I re drilled the base to match the F525 and it looks new just a little dirty.
 

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When I drug my 318 home that my father in law had stored in the barn it was a mess. The belly screen was darn near as bad as yours. I had to wear a face mask and goggles to get underneath it and take the screws out without getting a face full of nasty junk. Well I got a face full of it just managed to keep it out of my eyes and mouth. After a trip to the pressure washer I could eat breakfast on it now
 

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That is about how my second 332 screen looked. Best get the leak found/fixed so that doesn't happen again. Any overheat issues?
 

· Diesels are awesome!
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I never let my 332 get that bad. The last time I checked the belly screen, it only had a few blades of grass inside.
 

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That's a great find! and good of the dealer to give it to you.

Regarding keeping the belly screen clean, I use my leaf blower to blow off the entire machine after use, including blowing into the grill and side screens, this seems to keep clippings from building up on the screen and the cylinder fins.

BTW, I do this while it is running.
 

· Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Coalminer,the po did not mention any overheating issues,the coolant is clean and green,should the coolant be the type for aluminum blocks?The leak appears the filter,i put 2 qts of fluid in it and it still dosent show in the sightglass,really surprised it moved.
 

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That reminds me of what the screen looked like when I puller the one on the 430! It was nasty. A free seat! Not a bad deal for a little work :)
 

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JD sells coolant that is green. I asked about the overheat as the belly screen is one of the area's that the radiator sucks air through into the radiator. The other area's is a course foam pad on top of the frame in front of the fuel tank and the pedistle screens. The more that is plugged the less air flow.

I hope the leak is just your filter but I am almost willing to bet money on it being either of your trunion seals on the swash plate (where the direction control lever goes into the pump) and/or the input shaft seal and/or one of the two relief valves on top of the pump. Have you had the fender pan off yet? Good time to remove that and bring to a carwash to power spray things clean.
 

· Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CM the pan is at the sandblaster now,i think the valves on top are stuck,the freewheel lever wont push them down.I am skeptical on pulling the tank as the lines would have o come off and then lose prime to the motor.?oil is dripping from back of the filter.
 

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If done carefully the tank can be set on the left tire so nothing will be disconnected and you get a clear shot of what everything looks like. But in all honesty-you will want to pull the fuel pickup out of the tank since the screen is likely no longer attached (haven't seen one that was yet). At this time you can also flush the tank since there is a fair amount of grass that makes it's way in there too. And you shouldn't even have to bleed the system of air since the rest of the lines are still full of fuel. But if you do need to bleed it is a pretty easy job. 3 bleeder screws and you just turn the key on and crack the first one, then the next, then the next. Which needs to be done with a fuel filter change anyways.
 

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nice score new seat for free and a little work:fing32: eww that belly screen does do something wow thats dirty.
 

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man that screen is NASTY! makes me wonder if that is why the side covers were off. letting it breath better. coolant? no comment if your worried get some Diesel rated stuff.

on my 318 i have it torn down i sat the fuel tank on the LH tire it sat fine.
2 quarts in the hydro? wow! once the tank is off you can see everything clearly. and hopefully find the leak. dont forget to grease the driveshaft while you are in there. bump the starter to roll it about so you can hit the zerks.

if it was that low i would change the hydro and filter. i used a WIX filter and atf type F 6 quarts.

i also would not clean the screens with the engine running. any loose material will be sucked into the fins/radiator.

man i still think you got a steal on that thing:thThumbsU

nice price on the seat too:fing32:
 

· Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got underside all pressure washed,i suppose i need to get the hydro valves out and free them up,any tips? Jar it has a wix filter on it.i am going to change the fluid but wanted to find the leak first.
CM where are the bleed screws.?
 

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Got underside all pressure washed,i suppose i need to get the hydro valves out and free them up,any tips? Jar it has a wix filter on it.i am going to change the fluid but wanted to find the leak first.
CM where are the bleed screws.?
With all of the stuck valves I have seen I got them unstuck by just spraying PBbalster on them and letting it sit overnight while still in the pump. Might try that first.
 

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one of my valved was sticky i unscrewed it and oiled it up with 3 in 1 oil and worked it till free, then put it back in. was that a dead cat in that middle picture? nasty!

ive heard the sight tube and pickup hose are popular leak points on these tractors.
 

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Sight tube's often break from age and the pickup gets any sticks/debre if you are going over anything so that can get poped as well.

There are two screws on the fuel filter housing. One bleeds before fuel goes into the fuel bowl. Then the other is just after the bowl and then the last one is on the inlet into the injection pump. Any air that makes it to the injection pump needs to be bled by cracking one injector fitting at a time while turning the engine over. Once you get good fuel there then you start wide open throttle and leave for around 5 minutes. Sounds like terrible and runs badly while getting it all the air gets out of it. Best to have good working glow plugs before attempting this as well even if you live down south.

None of my relief valve pins were stuck but they were all leaking. One risk you take is if you do get them un-stuck-they may leak out the pin.
 

· Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
CM you were right on the oil leak ,front output shaft just pouring oil out.
 

· Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mrbeef,you were right on with the PB blaster on the valves,sprayed them,went back taped them down,started it and they popped out,now to get the seal replaced.
Put some Seafoam in the motor ,ran it and drained it,still dripping but will put the new JD filter and Torq Gard oil,getting there.
 

· Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
one of my valved was sticky i unscrewed it and oiled it up with 3 in 1 oil and worked it till free, then put it back in. was that a dead cat in that middle picture? nasty!

ive heard the sight tube and pickup hose are popular leak points on these tractors.
I dont think it was a dead cat but maybe a rat nest.
 

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Good time to replace the 4 seals, two orings and case gasket on the pump since you have to slide the rearend out to get to the pump. Good news is you don't need to drain the oil if you jack it up high enough once you get the rear-end out of the frame. And the fuel tank can still stay attached-although you should do the cleaning and re-attaching of the pickup screen in the fuel tank.

Good time to also replace the fan/alt belt once the driveshaft is loose from the rearend. Driveshaft needs to be removed from one end or the other and neither is fun to do (been there-done that).

The pumps are too hard to dive into. Just keep it clean.
 
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