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Discussion Starter #1
Over the weekend I found an old ariens 6 hp blower on the curb with a sign that said free, has spark.

I pulled the motor and opened the crank case to find pieces of the rod all over. Additionally the throttle cable is frozen stiff. If the rod is all that is bad I will replace it and reassemble (maybe?). However the crank is scored and I have no idea if the scoring makes the crank unusable as I have never done this before.


What is more likely is that I will buy a Predator replacement engine from Harbor Freight. The mounting bolts line up and the shaft is the same size as the Tecumseh that came off the blower. I'm hoping it will bolt up and accept the original pulley with no fabrication required.

Has anyone here done this or a similar re-power?

What level of fab/modification might I need to do to make this work? The only thing I can think of is the need to add guards for the belt to keep it from coming off.
 

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Over the weekend I found an old ariens 6 hp blower on the curb with a sign that said free, has spark.

I pulled the motor and opened the crank case to find pieces of the rod all over. Additionally the throttle cable is frozen stiff. If the rod is all that is bad I will replace it and reassemble (maybe?). However the crank is scored and I have no idea if the scoring makes the crank unusable as I have never done this before.


What is more likely is that I will buy a Predator replacement engine from Harbor Freight. The mounting bolts line up and the shaft is the same size as the Tecumseh that came off the blower. I'm hoping it will bolt up and accept the original pulley with no fabrication required.

Has anyone here done this or a similar re-power?

What level of fab/modification might I need to do to make this work? The only thing I can think of is the need to add guards for the belt to keep it from coming off.
First things first, do you just have the 1 crankshaft out the side..or is there a crank, and smaller stub shaft next to it? If not...the HF engine should work okay.

The HF engines have a 3/4" crank, is that what the old engine has?
 

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I think back in 73 Ariens was still using a single belt for both auger and drive so he should only have 1 shaft and be in good shape there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I have a single shaft. It is the same 3/4" shaft. I am not sure of the height and offset are going to be an issue. I just want to talk out all of the issues before I make the decision to drop $150 or so on a motor I don't need (i have a snowblower already).

I don't have welding equip, a mill, or drill press so I want to keep the fabrication to a minimum.

This job seems pretty simple, things that seem simple can get real hairy. Say for example the shaft isn't long enough on the new motor. Now I have to modify the shaft or move the mounts.

Anyone who has done a similar conversion feel free to share there experience or post a link to their thread.
 

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just went out and measured...

From bench to center of crank, 4.250"

End of CS to the center of the PTO side motor mount hold, 3 5/8"

10" from center of CS to the valve cover

2 3/8" from the mounting flange on the side cover to the tip of the crank

5 3/8" from bench up to aux mounting boss on side cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
just went out and measured...

From bench to center of crank, 4.250"

End of CS to the center of the PTO side motor mount hold, 3 5/8"

10" from center of CS to the valve cover

2 3/8" from the mounting flange on the side cover to the tip of the crank

5 3/8" from bench up to aux mounting boss on side cover.
Thank you red. I am likely going to wait for the predator motor to go on sale again and get one then.

When I get around to it I will definitely check your measurements against my tecumseh.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Today I decided to do a little work on the original tecumseh. I sprayed the cylinder with PB blaster and set out to remove the head. Only one of the head bolts stripped, remind me to only use six point sockets in the future.

I drilled the head off of the stripped bolt. That's all of the progress I was able to make today as I only had about 1/2 hour of spare time to "play". I snapped a few photos of the unit that I will post a little later.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pics are in...
Here is the unit (I just set the motor down on the unit for the pic)


Here is the mess I made drilling out the head bolt.


This next photo is one of my concerns with replacing the motor. There is a black rod that engages the belt running right next to the motor. I'm not sure if the HF motor will clear this rod.
 

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I have a similar '68, 6HP model as yours. And if it's anything at all like mine (hard to tell from the photo) you may end up having to cut off the motor mounts as they're too short for modern, thicker mounting bases. Threading new bolts from underneath shouldn't be a problem, but it's mighty cramped.

Also, depending on the shaft length, you may be able to set the motor back enough to prevent it from interfering with the belt clutch.
 

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That HF 6.5 will work good on there, have seen a few of these Ariens repowered with them now. You just have to smack out the mounting studs and put bolts up through from underneath to bolt down the new motor. Some of them the shaft ends up a smidge too long and it hits the inside of the belt cover, most just drill a hole in the belt cover so it lines up and lets the shaft protrude a bit.

The control rods will work around the new engine. The chute control rod though may hit the engine, it doesn't always. Solution for that is to move the chute control rod down a few inches on the handlebar end. Some also put in a universal joint and a bracket to allow it to go around the new motor. But overall the swap ain't bad at all!!
 

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If you can, measure how far up the control rod is from the base level of the engine mount.
 

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The auger clutch rod should clear. I just bolted a Predator on a 77 Ariens yesterday and there is plenty of room. I could take some pictures maybe later if it isn't raining.
 

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The clutch rod should clear easy, the chute control will have to be moved down for sure, they always do to put on an OHV.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all. I am amazed at the level of great responses I have gotten.

Sounds like this is a text book install
1 remove studs
2 lower chute control
3 install pulley on new motor and install motor using through bolts instead of studs.
4 fab up a belt retainer so belt can't come off of pulley
5 modify belt cover if needed

Any one want to tweek my list? I'm tempted to add things like sand prime and paint body. New skid pads and scraper bar.....

Because I am in no rush I will wait for the hf motor to go on sale. In the mean time i'll tear down the old motor. Who knows, maybe I'll still end up using that. Although the new predator motor will be way more fun as its new and no doubt will greatly outperform and out last the 30+ year old tecumseh with the scored crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That HF 6.5 will work good on there, have seen a few of these Ariens repowered with them now. You just have to smack out the mounting studs and put bolts up through from underneath to bolt down the new motor.
From your description it sounds like I can hit them with a BFH and they will pop out of the bottom?? Is that what you were trying to convey?

I was going to cut them off as flush as possible and then try to drill out what was left.My method done by hand will no doubt result in the center of the stud holes moving slightly.
 

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Use a BFH!

They are usually just pressed in, maybe tack welded underneath to hold them in place during assembly. A good hit or two with a heavy hammer pops em right out!

Go with the new OHV from HF... You won't believe the difference in performance!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I would love to add some sort of motor mounts to reduce vibration/noise (cause I can). I can't think of a good way to accomplish this. All I can think is to put rubber washers under the base of the motor at the mounting bolts.
 

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After seeing everyone repower these old Ariens i repowered my trusty old Craftsman this year. Went with a DuroMax 7hp Honda Clone, electric start, 3a alternator, added a battery, replaced the old light with a new LED unit for less current draw, works awesome can't wait to lay into some snow with her!
 

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I would love to add some sort of motor mounts to reduce vibration/noise (cause I can). I can't think of a good way to accomplish this. All I can think is to put rubber washers under the base of the motor at the mounting bolts.
Don't bother... I found that after installing my OHV on there and running it that there was hardly any vibration from the motor running. The old L-Head Tec rattled and really buzzed you through the handebars, with the OHV its just a nice hum.

But if your worried you could add some rubber between the motor and the plate, but not too much as it would cause play at the belt pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Go with the new OHV from HF... You won't believe the difference in performance!
Hard to tell the difference in performance since I never ran the original motor, but I know what you mean.

Just to add a little more info. When I got this unit home I was able to turn the crank with the electric start. Using this method I determined that the drive wheels and auger engaged and were able to be driven by the motor. Obviously I was not able to test them at speed or under load so there is always a chance that the original rod grenaded due to the crank pulley seeing an excessive load (like if the auger gears locked up.) I'm really not worried that there could be another issue as the most It could cast me is around $150 (famous last words), and I'll have the new motor still even if the blower is a dud. I'm easily getting $100 worth of entertainment out of messing with this old thing as it is.
 
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