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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My GX345 with 620 hrs has started ( or should I say not started...) refusing to start when its hot. I can mow for an hour, come back to park it and it will immediately start again. BUT, if I let it sit for a little while and then try it will give a small effort to start and then just crank. If I let it sit for an hour it will start right up. I tried tapping the ignorant TDM and also cooling it with a cold water/ice rag to no avail. It runs absolutely fine when I'm mowing. I had a low range surge when starting hot a while back but when I went to running non ethanol fuel it stopped doing that. I always use seafoam.

I have solid green and red lights on the board. Yesterday I pulled the air cleaner and tried it and saw no fuel down in the carb. Not sure I sure I would see any at that point but I could hear a slight buzzing sound up around that area. Stupid cicadas around here made it hard to hear where it was coming from.

My fuel pump is the later version mounted on the rear. I do have 9 year old JD battery and am going to replace this year but it still starts and runs the PTO fine.

This kinda sounds like vapor lock but why?

Anyone had this happen to them or have an idea?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh yeah, replaced the TDM about 18 months and approx 60 hours ago.

I can't edit the original message for some reason so I have to repost this.
 

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Dave, Two things to try. Get an inline spark tester and install the next time it refuses to start. If spark, probably a fuel delivery problem. If no spark, probably ignition coil(s) going bad. If spark, try some starting fluid in carb...just a short spray! If it doesn't fire with spark and starter fluid, time for compression test.

As a side note, clicking the 3 dots on the right of your post wouldn't let you edit? Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Correct, The 3 dots gave me the edit but when I clicked on it nothing happened.

I would think if it was a coil I would notice a hesitation or lack of some power. The chances of them both going bad at the same time is rare I would think. I have had one go south on my former 285 and it was a noticeable power loss when one goes out. The GX runs great with plenty of power up my small hills in the yard when mowing and in winter when running snowthrower or pushing with blade. I would be really surprised if it was low compression, these Kawasaki's have been just great as I have over 1000 hrs on my '98 345 and it is still going strong.

I didn't think about the starting fluid good idea and I'll see if a buddy has an inline spark tested I can borrow. Thanks!
 

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If starter fluid get it to fire, I'll go with vapor lock!
If you have metal fuel lines, replace them with synthetic fuel lines. Next search online got "exhaust gasket material". I've got an Auto Zone near me and a search shows they carry it. Cut several gaskets to go between the bottom of the carb and the mounting surface on the intake manifold. This may (??) help insulate the carb from engine heat.

A fix will probably be easy, determining WHAT to fix may not be as easy! Bob
 

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If starter fluid get it to fire, I'll go with vapor lock!
If you have metal fuel lines, replace them with synthetic fuel lines. Next search online got "exhaust gasket material". I've got an Auto Zone near me and a search shows they carry it. Cut several gaskets to go between the bottom of the carb and the mounting surface on the intake manifold. This may (??) help insulate the carb from engine heat.

A fix will probably be easy, determining WHAT to fix may not be as easy! Bob
Sound advice for abating vapor lock but why would a 15-year-old tractor that presumably never had vapor lock issues suddenly have issues?
 

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Denver, From what I've found, the GX345 is liquid cooled. After 15 years maybe (??) an overheat issue causing vapor lock? Don't know, just a guess! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I will try some of these ideas. If I spray a little fuel down the air intake would it not be the same as starting fluid? The goofy thing is, if I go out there right now when it cool it will start a dozen times... (no, I didn't try it that many times....but you get the idea...)

Thanks all!
Anybody else have an idea?
 

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Gas should work. It's just that starting fluid burns a little easier. start it, run it until it acts up and doesn't want to restart, then try gas in the carb. Bob
 

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By spraying starter fluid or gas into the carb, the main thing I would be trying to do is isolate if you have a fuel or spark issue. I would be just looking for some attempt to start by pouring a little gas down the carb.

When in the no start (hot engine) scenario, checking for spark would be really telling as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, I was able to determine it appears to be fuel related. When it did it after mowing this time I poured a little gas down into the carb and it fired up but then acted like it was running out of fuel and quit. I guess the next thing to try when I mow again is pull the fuel line at the out going line on the fuel pump and see if it is working???

I'm leaning towards either the fuel pump or the solenoid that appears to go in the bottom of the carb bowl. Anybody got an idea at this point?

The way I have seen the TDM's malfunctions on here and also my experience's with that **** thing it just makes me wonder..... :unsure: I do have a spare I could try I guess.

Thanks,
Dave
 

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It might be vapor lock, in that the fuel is a little too near something that is hot. Maybe check the whole path of the fuel lines to see if any of it is getting hot?
 

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Might be time for me to find you another tractor young man ! This time we are looking for a diesel........Throw your gas away Sir !
 

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It definitely sounds like vapor lock but in theory, your engine shouldn't be prone to vapor lock with the rear-mounted fuel pump. As I understand it, vapor lock usually happens in the suction portion of the fuel line. Also, why now? What changed?

I think you are right to be suspicious of the solenoid (whether it be TDM related or not) and I would also look closely at the fuel pump.
 

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I agree with denverguy, the newer gx345 is not prone to vapor lock.

I had vapor lock on my '98 345 and spent many hours trying to figure out what was wrong. I finally routed the fuel back to the tank so it didn't sit in the line next to the engine and muffler. It constantly recirculates while the engine is running.
The '99 or 2000 345 had the fuel line routed this way from factory and I bought all of the connections to do this to mine. I also changed the thermostat and re-filled with new coolant. But why did mine develop vapor lock in the first place. It didn't come that way from the factory when new. All I can say is my 345 runs perfectly now.

The only thing I can think might be different if it does have vapor lock, maybe the engine is getting hotter for some reason. Is the thermostat okay? Is the coolant flowing properly? Is there something blocking air flow like a mouse nest in the duct? A lean condition?

The TDM could also be defective. They are known to fail often and when the engine is hot and come back to life when things cool down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No Jimbo, I AM NOT GOING DIESEL FOR A 3/4 acre yard! :p

Ok, I think I will do the TDM first. Then if that doesn't do it I'll check the fuel pump and then consider a solenoid replacement.

I will look for a blockage in the ducting. I would think if the cooling system was an issue I would get a temp light or notice a loss of power as it overheated, but maybe not.

Thanks all, will keep you posted how it goes.........
 

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Update please, or do I have to run my X495 North on I-81 to I-95N.....to mow your yard?
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, let me get my camera ready for that one........:ROFLMAO:

Replaced TDM yesterday and will probably mow today. Stay tuned.........
 

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I had a similar problem with my 2003 GX345 several years ago, Mine would sometimes even cut out when hot or if I shut it down when hot, it would not restart. It drove me crazy for a while, but eventually I replaced the fuel pump and have had no trouble since. The odd thing was that I could disconnect the fuel line after the fuel pump and it would still pump gas, but evidently not with enough pressure to fill the carb's float bowl when the fuel line was connected.

Jim
 
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