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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I bought a GX345 that caught fire after mice ate some wires and fuel hoses. I have dumped a small fortune of money and time to get to a point when I could attempt to fire her up. When it sits for a day or two without the battery connected, I can turn the key to run, and the dash lights come on. If I use carburetor cleaner, it will start when I turn the key to start. When I turn the key back to run, the starter keeps turning. After I move the key to the start position, the relay does not release, and every time I move the key to run, the starter cranks.

I used my service manual troubleshooting guide to this point:
(3) Is battery voltage present at A3 ignition
interlock module connector X6, terminal H-F 710
Pur wire (D)?
Yes - Go to next step.
No - Check ground circuit for A3 module on wires
105 and 104 Blk. If voltage and ground circuit good,
replace A3 module.
I had less than battery voltage, so I replaced the interlock module. I installed the new interlock module today, and the same thing happened.

I also tried to use the brake pedal to stop the starter. I pressed the brake and got the engine to start on carb cleaner. When I let off the brake, the starter kept cranking. I then disconnected the brake switch, and the starter still cranks in the run position. Finally, I disconnected the seat switch, reverse switch, and the brake switch, and the starter still cranks in the run position.

Sorry for writing a book, but I really need help. What am I missing?
 

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Almost sounds like it could be the key switch itself. Something inside or on the plug melted? Can you put battery voltage where it needs to go (hot wire it) to take away the necessity to turn the key to “start” position? That could rule out or confirm the switch being bad...

Unrelated, probably, but will it only fire up on carb cleaner? Visually verify the choke butterfly is closing 100%
Quick edit: I should clarify i’m Not hugely familiar with the GX345, so that statement only holds true if the engine is carbureted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Steddy,
Thanks for the reply! The lockout module and the ignition switch come as a unit, so it is brand new as well. I have not tried running a wire to the solenoid, but if the relay unsticks, I will give that a shot. For your third point, I am not so concerned about the running issue yet, because I obviously have a bigger issue to deal with. My guess is that the fuel shut off solenoid is not working.
 

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I have an LX that was acting up like this and I was sure it was the ign sw / pcb combo. On mine the starter would stay engaged but if you removed the purple wire on the solenoid the starter would quit spinning. In the end it was the starter solenoid. It was just full of grit and crud. It's weird that it would release when I disconnected the purple wire. It was actually more of an intermittent problem. Still, it's given no more problems since I cleaned the starter.
 

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Never had that issue but thanks for the heads up Rayjay! I never cleaned my solenoid on either machine!
 

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I would suggest that you order a complete wiring harness and start over. From experience(s) whenever a fire has damaged any part of a electrical system, it is best "not" to try and re-wire it. Most likely you have now destroyed the new $150.00 Interlock Circuit Module you installed, plus any other like the TDM unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Been There,
I have tried to find it, but is unobtainable. I can find the Kawasaki harness, but it is missing all of the Deere-specific goodies. I placed orders with two different companies that said it was in stock, only to be told that they don't have it days later. I guess I should put an alert on EBAY, so I will be notified if one comes up.
 

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Hey Been There,
I have tried to find it, but is unobtainable. I can find the Kawasaki harness, but it is missing all of the Deere-specific goodies. I placed orders with two different companies that said it was in stock, only to be told that they don't have it days later. I guess I should put an alert on EBAY, so I will be notified if one comes up.
If memory serves me correctly, the older JD345 #AM121717 wiring harness is the same as the GX345 #AM133218 harness, which the exception the GX345 does not have the Time delay Module. There are several 345 wiring harnesses on Ebay...One is for $49.99 and as you cane make a offer... plus $11.20 shipping. This might be your way getting the tractor up and running again. Go to John Deere Parts website and compare the two harnesses on what is different in the two. May not be there is any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I actually bought a 345 for parts. I saw the GX wire harness had more wires going to the interlock module, so I gave up there. If the only difference is the TDM, I may be golden. Thanks.
 

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I actually bought a 345 for parts. I saw the GX wire harness had more wires going to the interlock module, so I gave up there. If the only difference is the TDM, I may be golden. Thanks.

My 1999 345 Interlock Circuit Module came without the two..red and green lights that lit when the engine is running. That part for the 345 is #AM132500, and when I needed to replace it, the newer part #AM132500 came with the two lights. I'm assuming the GX345 Interlock Module #AM132500 is the same with the two lights. So, wonder what are the extra wires you mentioned above would be working for? I would think that Deere would apply a different part number if the Module is different. If there is no difference, then the old 345 wiring harness probably would work just dandy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There are more wires attached to the two connectors the attach to the interlock module. These may well go to the TDM. The temp is dropping like 40 degrees tonight, so I might not get to this for a few days. Thank you for your insight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Next to the yellow wire on the interlock module, there is a female spade connection. There was nothing plugged into this connection when got the mower. Should this connection be empty?
Also, where does the black wire go on the "H" connector (the 8 pin connector on the left)? I had it on the bottom left (H-H I think), but the manual shows it at the bottom right (H-E I think). If I put it in the wrong place, it may explain my bad ground.
 

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Next to the yellow wire on the interlock module, there is a female spade connection. There was nothing plugged into this connection when got the mower. Should this connection be empty?
Also, where does the black wire go on the "H" connector (the 8 pin connector on the left)? I had it on the bottom left (H-H I think), but the manual shows it at the bottom right (H-E I think). If I put it in the wrong place, it may explain my bad ground.
Check the wire color again. The Black/Pink stripe wire (805) on the 8 pin connector goes to the Main Wiring harness. There is another wire that in solid Black (105)goes to PTO Clutch wire harness I think the one you are referring to.

Are you referring to the plug that has two wires on top and four on the bottom? The "Yellow/Black"stripe wire (410) goes to the voltage regulator, the all "Yellow" (414) goes to the Seat Switch.. NOTE: Next to it are two "Blue" wires..(750) goes to the PTO/RIP switch. The other slot "Blue" (756) goes to Nowhere) Next to the Blue (no where) wire in a "Purple (710) wire it goes to Brake/Neutral Start Switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Check the wire color again. The Black/Pink stripe wire (805) on the 8 pin connector goes to the Main Wiring harness. There is another wire that in solid Black (105)goes to PTO Clutch wire harness I think the one you are referring to.

Are you referring to the plug that has two wires on top and four on the bottom? The "Yellow/Black"stripe wire (410) goes to the voltage regulator, the all "Yellow" (414) goes to the Seat Switch.. NOTE: Next to it are two "Blue" wires..(750) goes to the PTO/RIP switch. The other slot "Blue" (756) goes to Nowhere) Next to the Blue (no where) wire in a "Purple (710) wire it goes to Brake/Neutral Start Switch.
Maybe our boards are not mounted in the same orientation. On the 6 pin connector, mine has the two pins in the bottom. I do not have the tractor in front of me, but I am pretty sure I am talking about the black (105) wire. Which pin does that attach to?
I do not have my service manual in front of me, but I think it refers this plug as "F1". On the board, it labels the pins as H-A to H-D across the top and H-H to H-E across the bottom.
 

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I have a Technical Manual for John Deere 325. 335, and 345 for year 1999 with Tractors with Serial No. (70001 +) And there is nothing in reference to "F1" in the Electrical Schematics and Wiring Harness diagrams. However, I think the Interlock Module orientation is probably the same, being Deere didn't change the tractor assembly parts locations. Like I mentioned before the Module is the same Part number for both older 345 and GX345. However, there could be some wiring changes due to the fact the GX345 had the "Lock-Out" pedal on the left foot stand, and that may not be the case for any wiring setup.
If you are a very friendly person the your local Deere dealer and to the parts person, he or she may be willing to print out you a complete wiring diagram on the GX345.

Are you could log on to as listed below.... Download and pay $39.00 for the TM1975 Technical manual the 596 pages in .pdf format. Print out the electrical pages and print whatever you see that will benefit you.
https://www.deeretractors.org/store/products/john-deere-gx345-lawn-and-garden-tractor-service-manual-download/
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got her sorted out today. When I was replacing wires, I confused myself about whether I was looking at the front or back of one of the plugs to the interlock module. I put the ground wire in in H-H, when it was supposed to go in H-E. Instead of spending another $172 on the interlock module and ignition switch, I bought a few relays. Do not throw away your burnt up interlock module. They are pretty easy to fix.
Anyway, she purrs like a kitten now. I paid $500 for a GX345 with 422 hours, a snow blower with weights and chains, and a bagger with the power flow.If not for this forum, I do not know if I would have ever figured out what the problem was.
 
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