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Discussion Starter #1
Worst time of the year for the mowing machine to break down, but it did. Son thought he ran it out of fuel, but turns out there's no spark. (Put a tester on it just to be sure.) Don't really know what to look at.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sure does. Died out like it ran out of gas, put gas in it and it wouldn't start back up. Put a charger on there and tinkered with it a while. I tried removing and grounding the plugs to look for a spark, but just to be sure I borrowed the tool/indicator.

All indications on the dash are that all systems are go. Turns over with no trouble. Just don't have fire going into the cylinders.
 

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Sure does. Died out like it ran out of gas, put gas in it and it wouldn't start back up. Put a charger on there and tinkered with it a while. I tried removing and grounding the plugs to look for a spark, but just to be sure I borrowed the tool/indicator.

All indications on the dash are that all systems are go. Turns over with no trouble. Just don't have fire going into the cylinders.
Ohm out the spark plug wire first. If good, check coil. If good, check voltage wire going to the coil.

:hide:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This thing is making me wish it had a conventional ignition.... points and all.

A $130 module requiring an engine pull to get to it. :Stop:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Soooo.. funny thing happened on the way to fixing a failing ignition system...

After getting the hood and side panels off, then tearing down a few other parts, I found that the plate the engine sits on had become detached from the rear motor mount/saddle. So, the motor sagged in the rear to the point of putting so much pressure on the coil module that it busted the bracket.

Crazy.
 

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All fixed? nice to meet the predecessor to mine, you're the only other one I know that runs the same 60 inch (clown) deck as I do. To others, it just seems like that deck should not be under there, but it works fine with that power steering.How are your deck caster bearings holding up? I need to rebuild mine, will have replacement flange bearing part # soon.

Thanks for the motor tip, will check mine tomorrow.
 

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All fixed? nice to meet the predecessor to mine, you're the only other one I know that runs the same 60 inch (clown) deck as I do. To others, it just seems like that deck should not be under there, but it works fine with that power steering.How are your deck caster bearings holding up? I need to rebuild mine, will have replacement flange bearing part # soon.

Thanks for the motor tip, will check mine tomorrow.
Just curious...why do you call it a "clown" deck? Is that a reference to "clown" shoes? (oversize)

Also, since you have a QT as well, does it look like you could swap a 60" deck into the QT (with the requisite fabrication work)?

I love my QT, but I would like to have a larger deck.
 

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Just curious...why do you call it a "clown" deck? Is that a reference to "clown" shoes? (oversize)

Also, since you have a QT as well, does it look like you could swap a 60" deck into the QT (with the requisite fabrication work)?

I love my QT, but I would like to have a larger deck.
Absolutely clown shoe reference, and it takes a lot of energy from the motor to run, you could really leverage the power of that 24 honda with this. It may be tougher to manual steer.If you find a deck with all it's mounts the front will pin right up with the QT.



The rears are a different story, but if you fab up hard mounts to the frame, then use chains on the rock shaft you can lift it.I have to see what the PO did with that chain hook up, it does not look right.



Just found some more of these goofy clips the PO used. If you want to do it let me know and I will get you the exact measurement from the front pin to the rear pin mount.Don't know if you could mount rears right to the rock shaft on the QT? it would have to move up & and to the rear to lift the deck & not bind.



I did see one for sale on Pa craigslist, leaning up against the wall inside a garage sideways, a bit ago. It has to weigh close to 300 pounds, real heavy steel, big freaking bearings, and giant pulleys.
 

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Ahhh! I know why they went to the frame for the rear mount, that thing hangs out so far, if you hit a tree it would prob bend the rock shaft, and put way too much stress on the lift cylinder. Plus in the newer model they went to big casters all the way around instead of the rear wheels and front skis, the deck is just way too heavy for the latter to hold up.
 

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Very important 60 deck install note, the pins on the lift bracket that go to the rock shaft must be mounted from the outside -in, then clip. If reversed then pinned the end of the pin will chew on the lift cylinder.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry for the late reply....
Ordered parts online... The yahoo selling the coil bracket didn't have it in stock, (though he listed having multiple in stock)... anyhow, the bracket just arrived today.

The PTO on my Cub Cadet puked, too. So, I was without a mowing machine in the prime of the season for a couple weeks. (Got the Cub up and running last week.)

In my desperation, I connected the 60" deck to the Eliminator 1700. It fit and ran the deck ok, but with 3 problems:
#1. Thick grass would bog the motor down a tick. (The GT2K doesn't even burp.)
#2. It didn't lift the deck evenly (Right side sagged).
#3. The real deal-breaker.... The PTO shaft wouldn't stay on the PTO. I think the keeper on the PTO shaft was too big for the groove in the PTO and wouldn't set into it to hold the shaft on. So, I could run it for a while, but it would wiggle off, eventually nicking the collar to the point I didn't want to risk it any more.
 

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Mine does that same right side dip, I think it may be a bent rock shaft (right arm) as it does not line up with the chain vertically. Then when I adjusted the front pin mount brackets to about the same position, I noticed the PTO shaft would just ting the front of the deck when on, then raise the deck to cross driveway, then down again. Thinking of de-adjusting front mounts to push deck to rear to get rid of the ting, it is such a tight fit with deck up and PTO on between deck and shaft.

I did figure out how to get rid of the "cha-ching,cha-ching" noise the deck makes from the caster brackets to the clevis pins in adjusting the blade height slop. As I found the deck height I wanted, then loosened the bolts (in slotted holes) holding the U carriage to the deck. Then installed 2- 5/8 bolts through the lowest assembly (blade height) holes, then compressed the carriage, which plumbed up the casters to dead center,then retightened carriage mount. Didn't feel the adjustment bolts could hold that load.

I did find the cross reference for the caster bearing to a US made Berliss # in image. That works with the factory grease zerk.
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