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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, if any if you have been following another thread, I got a G100 working with some parts from a GT275. Part of the reason I parted out the GT275 was I felt I couldn't trust the electrical circuit. I would go out to try and work in the engine.....nothing. Not even an attempt to start. PTO clicked on, lights worked. The next day, boom, everything came straight to life! :banghead:

Flash forward to last night. I've ran the G100 6 times since I've bought it. Not even a hint of starting problem. Go to start last night to measure voltage on the regulator.......nothing. Put a battery charger on over night. Battery light is off, 12.7V.....nothing. PTO is good, lights are bright, brake is on. Just nothing firing in the start circuit.

So, what the heck is preventing this from even trying to start?

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just to clarify you turn the key and the motor turns over but does not start?
No, nothing happens. At all.

Its like the starter solenoid circuit its not completing. It has to go thru the neutral switch and the PTO as far as I know. I don't get a click, nothing.

But two tractors, two fresh batteries, both tractors had ran 12 hours before; same problem. I have to be missing something simple here.

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· Penn State Puller!
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No, nothing happens. At all.

Its like the starter solenoid circuit its not completing. It has to go thru the neutral switch and the PTO as far as I know. I don't get a click, nothing.

But two tractors, two fresh batteries, both tractors had ran 12 hours before; same problem. I have to be missing something simple here.

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Bad fuse? Or maybe the regulator shorted out. Is it holding the charge in the battery when it's not running? My LA150 always had that problem. I put a new regulator on it last week and now the battery doesnt drain.

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To me sounds like something is up with the safety system. There is a seat switch and clutch switch that needs to be pressed. In other words in order to complete the circuit someone needs to be sitting on the seat and clutch/brake pressed.

I would start there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bad fuse? Or maybe the regulator shorted out. Is it holding the charge in the battery when it's not running? My LA150 always had that problem. I put a new regulator on it last week and now the battery doesnt drain.

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Well, the regulator is removed currently. I had the problem prior to removing it though. I noticed during my first mow that the battery light never went off and my lights were getting dim. I was not getting any DC at the regulator (AC was fine).

I was going to run it again to check before ordering a new one, but alas, nothing. Put the battery charger on, battery light went off, still same result. I just can't believe I had the same problem on another tractor. You know how I solved that one? Time. Waited and it fixed itself. Then, it broke again.

Maybe I have a stuck switch? This is odd.

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1994 JD 425, 1996 JD 425, 1999 Gravely Groundmaster 420, 1999 Kubota BX 2200, 2012 Kubota B2620
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The PTO safety switch can cause it too. Sounds like you need to get a wiring diagram and a continuity tester.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The PTO safety switch can cause it too. Sounds like you need to get a wiring diagram and a continuity tester.
I thought maybe it would be one of those. The PTO safety switch is behind the dash right? The PTO actually engages fine while the tractor is off.

Well, guess I'll have to open her up and start probing:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No one has a G100 electrical schematic laying around do they? I have a GT275 one I'm going to use as reference till I cab get to the dealership.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Check the brake switch, make sure that it is working. :dunno:
I hear it "click" but haven't checked continuity yet. Going to try that tonight when my wife lets me back to the garage. It's so odd. Everything else works.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Solved the problem. Whew, that makes me feel better.

Turns out the starter solenoid terminal must be a little corroded. I was getting 11.6V to the starter the whole time. Duh! We are pretty humid here in PA the past few days and I bet it made it worse. So, I'll put some contact cleaner on it.

In my line of work, this is why we use 120Vac instead if DC. It self cleans the contacts! I should have known better. Oh well, all is back to good! :D:thumbup:

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Okay new problem. I got a new regulator for this tractor. Put it in, I'm getting (-)18VDC. Tried swapping polarity of the stator, no change. How can it be negative?

Going to try some testing, just wanted to open it up to thoughts because it's hot outside and my patience is limited on hot days!

Edit.....it kind of looks like I have an open some where on the charging side to the battery. Time to open it all up again!

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· Diesel Power
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Where are you measuring minus 18v DC? You should be going across the battery terminals at WOT. I don't think it would be possible to get that reading off of a 12v battery. Plus 18v DC sounds more likely, but it means that you are over charging the battery. I'd still suspect the VR in that case, but I'd want to verify the right AC reading going into the VR from the stator. Do you have a tech manual for the G100?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Where are you measuring minus 18v DC? You should be going across the battery terminals at WOT. I don't think it would be possible to get that reading off of a 12v battery. Plus 18v DC sounds more likely, but it means that you are over charging the battery. I'd still suspect the VR in that case, but I'd want to verify the right AC reading going into the VR from the stator. Do you have a tech manual for the G100?
Okay, this is what I have. I have a almost identical motor in my craftsman GT3000. That is my reference.

I have continuity between ground and battery negative. Check.
I measure good AC voltage while running. Check.
Battery goes from 12.6V to 12.1V while running. Bad.
The purple wire leaving the regulator goes into the engine. I think I found the connector on the other side; however, this reads open circuit. Bad. I checked this against my craftsman manual and physical tractor.

I'm assuming somewhere under the cover, my regulator wire got chewed through. I really didn't want to take this all apart. I've done it enough times on my craftsman. I'm going to try a jumper wire first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Again, looks like it was what I thought it was. With a jumper wire in place, everything looks normal. I'll try and open it up tonight.

Something must have happened to damage the wire and the old regulator. Also noticed the air filter was really bent up. I don't know how you damage an air filter like that on a Kohler engine. Glad I had a spare sitting on the shelf.
 
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