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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Turn key no solenoid click won't turn over. Replace starter, solenoid, safety/key module. At first I needed to repeatedly engage the ignition key. Then adding a 50A boost to the battery from a charger to start. Then nothing. Started replacing parts as noted but am stumped as what to do next.
Anyone else have anything similar?
 

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I would troubleshoot instead of replacing parts. A voltmeter is best.
If you jumper 12v + to solenoid small wire...if it cranks then sounds like a bad ignition switch. Be sure you have power going to switch.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I did that. The problem is intermittent. When I checked the voltage on the solenoid circuit it had 12v. So I figured it was either the generator or the solenoid. Solenoid engaged with the unit removed so I figured it could be the brushes wearing out. The machine is over 25 yrs. old with the original starter. Unfortunately, one of the springs holding the brushes jumped and I was never able to find it so I needed to replace the generator in any event. But that didn't do it. At that point I was not getting 12V on the solenoid so figured it was the safety/ignition module. Can't test that so I replaced it. At first the machine started right up but then reverted to its old ways of needing a boost from a charger. Finally, yesterday I couldn't get it to run at all when it stalled way down in the lower meadow. Had to drag it back up with my tractor.
 

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The wiring diagram is online, here it is...
I think you mean starter instead of generator. The charging circuit has two parts, stator and voltage regulator.
A charged 12v battery should read about 12.6 volts. Check that, if low put it on a charger. Then running you should measure about 13 volts or so, indicating it's charging. If not, it's either stator or regulator. The stator has two wires. Check across it with meter on A.C. scale. At idle it should show maybe 10 volts or so then increase as you rev motor. The regulator converts a.c. to dc and regulates voltage so it doesn't overcharge.
If stator isn't outputting ac, with motor off, unplug two leads and ohm it out, meter on resistance Rx1. My guesstimate would be about 1 ohm. Open, it's bad and also check leads to ground, if it's shorted to ground it's bad.


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One more thing to check, with the key in the "run" position, PTO off and out of gear, take a wire from the + side of the battery and touch the small terminal on the solenoid. Be prepared, if all things are working the engine will crank. If that happens, likely a safety or corroded connection.
 
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