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GT235 PTO Clutch bolt loose.

8993 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  JimKana
The neighbor installed a new clutch last year and it has run fine. Last week he heard severe rattling and noticed the PTO clutch bolt & washer had come loose and was laying on the mower deck. He re-installed the bolt & washer and within 5 minutes it was loose again. He then bought a new bolt, conical washer, and lock washer and re-installed everything including putting Loctite on the bolt threads and torqued the bolt. 5 minutes running and the bolt is loose again. Any thoughts what might be causing this issue ?

:dunno:
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90 Ft. Lbs. .....

:fing32:
What do the threads look like in the crank shaft?
The threads look good. I am surprised the Loctite and lock washer didn't hold. Do you think it requires a higher torque value than 90 Ft. Lbs. ? Would a vibration issue cause the bolt to loosen so quickly ?

:dunno:
I wanted to make a correction. I torqued the clutch bolt to 50 Ft. Lbs. per the service manual and JD dealer service managers advise.

:fing32:
My guess is that it was run loose long enough that crankshaft and or inside of clutch are wallowed out.

Walt Conner
Walt, I think you are on to something here. I will double check the crankshaft OD. and the clutch ID. I will also re-check the threads inside the crankshaft end. I know he ran it until the bolt fell out of the original clutch and the same thing with the replacement clutch which lasted 1 season till the bolt fell out.

:thanku:
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I know this is a really old post on a recurring issue, but last week my 2005 (I think) GT 235 just simply "lost" the bolt and washer that hold the clutch on the crankshaft.
I've read through all the posts I could find on this forum and Google in general and saw a common thread where this particular bolt loosens no matter what it's torqued to and whether or not it has locktite on the threads. I've seen several cases where the bolt breaks off on the crankshaft, but amazingly the fragment backs out by simply tapping it...
My theory is that the root of the problem is the fact that these bolts don't stay tight. If you're lucky like me they just fall out in the field and if your unlucky they waggle enough to break off before they come out.
So a couple days ago I bought a new bolt and washer, and sure enough it came with white locktite on the threads...
I'm kind of old school and I've decided to use a "tabbed lock washer" to mechanically stop the bolt from turning.
My initial thought was to use a 2 tab lock washer similar to the one below, but I had a hard time sourcing one big enough to stretch to the flat side of the bushing.
After chatting with the guy at my local Fastenal I ended up using a really large fender washer between the bolt head and the concave washer that holds the bushing in.
After torquing the bolt down I used a drift and a ball-peen hammer to fold one edge down past the concave washer to one of the two flat sides of the bushing, and folded the other side up over one of the flat sides of the bolt.
I got a chance to test for about 30 minutes before it got dark tonight and so far so good. Right now I'm thinking that this bolt won't be backing out as easily this time around.
2472711
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Hi. You say this seems to be a common issue. I just picked up a 02ish GT235 a month or so ago. Is this issue specific to the Kawasaki engine or both the B&S and the Kaw? If it's both, I just want to get ahead of it.

Thanks

I know this is a really old post on a recurring issue, but last week my 2005 (I think) GT 235 just simply "lost" the bolt and washer that hold the clutch on the crankshaft.
I've read through all the posts I could find on this forum and Google in general and saw a common thread where this particular bolt loosens no matter what it's torqued to and whether or not it has locktite on the threads. I've seen several cases where the bolt breaks off on the crankshaft, but amazingly the fragment backs out by simply tapping it...
My theory is that the root of the problem is the fact that these bolts don't stay tight. If you're lucky like me they just fall out in the field and if your unlucky they waggle enough to break off before they come out.
So a couple days ago I bought a new bolt and washer, and sure enough it came with white locktite on the threads...
I'm kind of old school and I've decided to use a "tabbed lock washer" to mechanically stop the bolt from turning.
My initial thought was to use a 2 tab lock washer similar to the one below, but I had a hard time sourcing one big enough to stretch to the flat side of the bushing.
After chatting with the guy at my local Fastenal I ended up using a really large fender washer between the bolt head and the concave washer that holds the bushing in.
After torquing the bolt down I used a drift and a ball-peen hammer to fold one edge down past the concave washer to one of the two flat sides of the bushing, and folded the other side up over one of the flat sides of the bolt.
I got a chance to test for about 30 minutes before it got dark tonight and so far so good. Right now I'm thinking that this bolt won't be backing out as easily this time around.
View attachment 2472711
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When I first came here one of my questions was, "why did my X540 shear two PTO bolts? Some one answered, "buy a box of them, I shear at least 2 a year". Since it was one of my first posts I'm not sure if I put it in the JD forum or not, Joe.
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Hi. You say this seems to be a common issue. I just picked up a 02ish GT235 a month or so ago. Is this issue specific to the Kawasaki engine or both the B&S and the Kaw? If it's both, I just want to get ahead of it.

Thanks
Sorry I really didn't keep count and only focused on the B&S posts because they were relevant to me... but there were a lot of them...
As I started this I was simply trying to find specs for the bolt and was real surprised by the hits I found.
As I mention in my post I saw a pattern but the other thing I learned was that the JD bolt/washer is the best way to go.
As fasteners go they're pricey but together they came to less than $15, I ordered them from AGPRO online and picked them up the next day from my local dealer.
I've dropped a couple pics of my hack in this response. First pic is after testing 30 min, the second is after my wife mowed a couple acres the next day... she's mowed another several acres more today and so far so good.
2473032


2473033
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2
Thanks. I'm going to be checking on mine later today and see if I can get it prevented now.
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FYI
It's a new season and my "bent washer" fix is still holding.
Just got done mowing 5-6 acres of dried 2 ft grass over the last 3 days and even knocking down a couple dozen scrub bushes and it's looking great!
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Sorry I really didn't keep count and only focused on the B&S posts because they were relevant to me... but there were a lot of them...
As I started this I was simply trying to find specs for the bolt and was real surprised by the hits I found.
As I mention in my post I saw a pattern but the other thing I learned was that the JD bolt/washer is the best way to go.
As fasteners go they're pricey but together they came to less than $15, I ordered them from AGPRO online and picked them up the next day from my local dealer.
I've dropped a couple pics of my hack in this response. First pic is after testing 30 min, the second is after my wife mowed a couple acres the next day... she's mowed another several acres more today and so far so good.
View attachment 2473032

View attachment 2473033
Thank you jimkana, just the fix i was looking for
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Thank you jimkana, just the fix i was looking for
FYI: 1 and 1/2 mowing seasons later and the crank bolt is still holding strong and tight with zero maintenance.
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