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Discussion Starter #1
I am a new member looking for some guidance. My neighbors gave me their 2002 GT235 B&S. It ran fine until it decided not to start. Will not turn over. I have purchased a Service Manual on Ebay, but it's not here yet. Two main fuses are good. I have checked the battery and the main power to the solenoid and it is fine. The small wire to the solenoid is not getting any juice when I turn the ignition. I shorted across the two main solenoid lugs and the starter spins, but it does not engage the engine, just spins. Starter and battery are new (replaced by previous owner). I also have the old starter, which also spins when I short across the two main lugs. While I await the Service Manual (coming from Canada, ugh) any suggestions on next steps? I know they took good care of this thing and they are the original owners. They had JD service it. The only thing really beat up is the hood and that's from the wife driving under trees and bushes. I'm looking forward to getting this thing going and having a real lawnmower.
 

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You have to be sitting in the seat, parking brake pedal pushed in, PTO switch in the down [ off] position and then the starter should engage. If all of that is in order then just wait for the manual. JD manuals have excellent troubleshooting sections.
 

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Apologies for not being familiar with these specific engines. But often electric starters have a Bendix gear that needs to slide up (towards the flywheel teeth) as the starter spins. Then when you turn off the starter, the gear retracts, and pulls away from the flywheel.

If you can get yours to spin, but it doesn't actually engage with the flywheel, you might check that gear on the starter. Maybe the sliding aspect is stuck and needs some oil, etc.

This wouldn't be your whole problem, of course, if you also can't get the starter to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wanted to follow up and let you know what I found. I got the service manual and did some electrical troubleshooting. I identified the ignition switch as the likely culprit. When I put a jumper around it, the motor would crank. Got a new ignition switch module with the Printed Circuit Board Assembly (couldn't get just the key switch). Engine started right away. Only problem is that fuel started pouring out around the carburetor. I think there is a fuel line crack/break. Good to know I have something to keep me busy.
 

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I'm glad you got one problem solved, at least! If the gas is pouring out of the carb itself, the needle valve in the carb might not be closing off the fuel flow into the carb, once the bowl is full. Either due to a damaged valve seat, or a leaky float, etc. A cracked fuel line would be easier, though, so hopefully it's just that.
 

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I ran into fuel pouring out of my GT245 the other day. Check your carb vent line. I forget if my 235 has a vent line like my 245, but if so, check it. Mine was clogged. I disconnected the tube and wallah, no more flooding (I took apart the carb 3 times to confirm it wasn't the float).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The tractor will now start and runs great for a few seconds, then fuel begins pouring out (not dripping out) of what appears to be the carburetor vent hose (small rubber hose attached to the carburetor). At that point, the engine starts running rough and smoke gets black, which seems to indicate a rich condition. Vent hose is not blocked. I have searched through the service manual and no information on this issue. I was dinking around and took off the pulse line to the fuel pump to see what would happen. The tractor ran great for several minutes and then died. I expected it to starve for fuel, but it ran well until that happened. I'd appreciate any help on this.
 

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Most likely a stuck inlet needle valve in the carburetor. The needle (and seat if it has one) could also be worn out. I suggest pulling the carb bowl, removing the float, pull the needle valve then spray with carb cleaner.

Clean the bowl, replace and try again. You might need a new bowl gasket depending on the age of the carb/gasket.

As you are doing the work, look for signs that the fuel lines may be degrading. They can shed and the debris can prevent the needle valve from seating. If they are in poor condition, I would replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks denverguy, you were spot on. To minimize disassembly, I only took off the carb bowl and judiciously sprayed carb cleaner into the carb needle valve area and on float attach/movement area. Engine now runs great. Note that I found that tightening the solenoid until it is snug and then tightening the rest of the way with the engine running helped me get it tightened for proper engine running.

Now, I just need to purchase a full hood assembly and I have a really nice "free" lawnmower.
 
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