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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good morning all,
The yard has been scalped and I thought a few pics and the winterization process would be neat to follow. I'm going to keep the pics in one Cub album for easy reference...

https://picasaweb.google.com/thegog...&authkey=Gv1sRgCIT-gvH36OSAAg&feat=directlink

As it stands - 11/7/2011:
- deck removed, 90% cleaned; will need to finish cleaning then paint and coat
- installed both rear wheel weights (they only gave me enough washers/nuts for 3 of the 4 bolts, both wheels!)
- installed port and starboard side "cab" supports
- installed front winch only, no electric at this point
- Cab ETA sometime this week

The process should be on schedule for the first snow fall... hopefully : )
 

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Love the pics - especially the underside of the fabbed deck, that's interesting.

Thanks for the updates! Look forward to more of your experience with the new 2000 Cub.
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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185 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)
The plot thickens…
First off, my last update was Sunday where I left off in a good position intending to do the electrical on Monday. Monday night comes around and I notice the 2 main components - relay and switch - have installation instructions such as "install in an appropriate place." What does that mean?!?!? My appropriate places were not going to work with the hardware supplied. Lets just say I went to bed Monday with a clean garage and a Home Depot shopping list (including the nuts & bolts for the 4th bolt on both wheel weights) for Tuesday morning. I did managed, however, to top off the air in the tires and grease the fittings. I broke 3 of the grease fittings in this process but that’s a different post : (

I can't imagine this project being completed with the screws/bolts they supplied... JMO

Tuesday
- 4th bolt on both wheel weights completed... whats up with that?!?!?
- roughed all wires and splices. NOTE: The accessory power is not per the manual... manual points to green wire, mine was opposite red. Make sure the "#2" clamp penetrates both wires. No action on the first dry-fire; this was the first thing I checked.
- (PIC) Dry fired again... only the winch "out" would work. After a 6-pack and about an hour of my electrician neighbors time, I realized there was a loose wire on rear of the actual winch! ****. Fixed.
- (PIC) installed the "heat shield" in front of the winch. Have a rubber mallet on hand for this part. IMO, this should be a snow, stone, weather shield with much better coverage especially considering the exposed thin wire that was loose and cost me a few hours time...and a 6-pack.
- I did NOT install the toggle switch per the manufactures instructions of an "appropriate location" on the left side. Its currently loose, stashed under the hood. My first thought was that I was going to wait until the cab was installed to find the best spot possible especially considering the lack of hardware supplied. Now I'm going to buy a more suitable toggle switch and mount it on the dash, top-left of the PTO engagement.
- (PIC) I mounted the relay on the black part of the hood, inside top center. I used #10 ss bolt > ss washer > rubber washer > HOOD < ss washer < lock washer < nylon nut. This shouldn't go anywhere and be water tight. This was "appropriate" to me.

Same link as above -
Next is the blower and belt assembly... still no word on the Bercomac universal cab.
 

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Wow! Thanks for the detailed writeup on the snowblower install....and I'm sorry to hear the pain in the rear it was to get done. Cubs really is putting some faith in electronics with their 2000 Series - electric lift, electric p/s, electric winch....I hope it holds up!

Looking forward to the next round of pics with the snowblower attached!

BTW ^ your link ^ is invalid in previous post :) I used original link in post #1
 

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....I wonder if you could have had the dealer install that winch for you? Since you paid an arm and a leg for it....
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
....I wonder if you could have had the dealer install that winch for you? Since you paid an arm and a leg for it....
Believe it or not, I told my buddy today that knowing the hardware they supplied and what I thought was the correct way to mount everything, I am very happy I decided to do it myself. I know 100% where the wires are and that they will never move. If I had followed the directions or allowed the dealer to follow directions, it would have not been to my expectations. I like knowing how its put together and how it works. Plus it was fun having a few beers and talking to the fine folks here on the boards!

I will say that power steering would be a nice touch with this monster on the front : ) wowsa! Still very manageable though and don't think the extra $3k for the GTX2154LE is worth it! I always think the more accessories added, the more thats probably going to break at the worst possible time. Knowing my daughter will be using it more than I am (at least once the novelty wears off!) is where I can appreciate the power steering in maneuvering in and out of the garage.

I'll have an update tomorrow with more pics. Its now installed and works great!
 

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Wow! Thanks for the detailed writeup on the snowblower install....and I'm sorry to hear the pain in the rear it was to get done. Cubs really is putting some faith in electronics with their 2000 Series - electric lift, electric p/s, electric winch....I hope it holds up!

Looking forward to the next round of pics with the snowblower attached!

BTW ^ your link ^ is invalid in previous post :) I used original link in post #1
That electric lift I didn't trust yet.Working as maintance in a ice cream plant I know first hand what water does to electric.I didn't like that the switch was on the fender.I would have thought they should of had it on the dash.

Just my 2 cents,
Dennis
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Wednesday
Snowblower installation completed!

https://picasaweb.google.com/thegog...&authkey=Gv1sRgCIT-gvH36OSAAg&feat=directlink

A friend of mine stopped over and am sure glad he did because it made it much easier engaging the tensioners while applying the belts. Really no hiccups overall on this stage. I did have to drill out the hole for the rear bar support in the tractor frame, no big deal really. Belts went on fine - there was 2 of us - and everything felt and sounded right upon engagement. NOTE: The manual stated to engage in half throttle. It was also nice to have another set of eyes so one could sit on the seat, not to disengage the safety, while the other inspected the belts, pulley's, brackets, etc... I also was missing the hair pin used to keep the winch hook in place on the snowblower. I could've lost it though : )

We did find one issue that I'm still stumped on. I took 3 pictures of a guide bar from the main pulley system. The bar was inside the tractor frame and rubbing against the main pulley causing sparks. I pried it down and onto a steel ledge of the tractor but can't imagine this is what was intended. The pics are in the album. Please let me know your thoughts on this one.

I also took a few pics of the switch they supplied and where I though an "appropriate" place would be on the left side. The wires would be exposed to the elements and be pinched between the hood and dash if installed here. I took a picture of where I plan on installing an new toggle switch once I find one. There's plenty of power cord to go to the right side of the dash.

Ok, I think thats it for this portion. Next is the cab which has not arrived... I might do a youtube commentary in the meantime : )

Onward!
:trink39:
 

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Was that a guide that was part of the snowblower kit? I'll check out the new 2000s at work tomorrow and get a look at what that should look like. Appears to be a belt guide for the bottom belt.
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #11
yes, its the belt assembly kit for the snowblower. It comes with the snowblower.

Even if I cut it down a bit, there's still too much pressure pushing up, that I'm afraid it would still continue to rub against the large pulley. In this current position, I'm afraid there's unnecessary pressure pulling down and to the right of the cylinder that the pulley's are welded too. I can see it over time, bending and pulling the fixture out of alignment, then snapping belts, etc... yowsa!

I think the only way to completely free the awkwardness of this design and relieve the pressure is to cut just above the first 90 deg curve from the bottom - easily seen in the pictures - leaving only the bottom pulley protected.

To buy time, I actually folded up electrical tape to an approx. thickness of 1/4" and wedged it between the top of the bar and the steel ledge of the frame : ) At least it wont rub and theres certainly enough tension to prevent it from going anywhere.
 

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I had a thought on the belt keeper bar. Could it be out of position in terms of it's angular (clock face) position?

In other words, in photo 24 of 30, if you looked at the lower pulley from below where the keeper bar is currently at a 9:00 position, maybe it wants to be at 12:00 or 1:00? Then the top end wouldn't interfere with the frame, and both the upper and lower portions of the bar would act as belt keepers for the two pulleys, respectively.

As it is right now with the lower portion running inside the lower belt, it's really only "keeping" the top belt instead of both belts. And even so, it would do better at a circumferencial position on the pulley where the belt is fully in the pulley groove, not where it's starting to leave the groove as it is right now. Having the bar at a position where the belt is fully seated will let it trap the belt effectively without having to get too close to the belt to do so.

I mocked up the photo here to show what I'm thinking.
 

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That electric lift I didn't trust yet.Working as maintance in a ice cream plant I know first hand what water does to electric.I didn't like that the switch was on the fender.I would have thought they should of had it on the dash.

Just my 2 cents,
Dennis
Well during series 5 IH used a electric actuator for Lift But during series 6 they went Back to Hydraulic lift on the Hydro Models But did keep electric lift for the Gear models I have a 40 year old electric actuator on my 106 which I got off a 147 Hasn't been rebuilt and It's doing what it supposed to do But it’s slow I just Hope the newer actuators are a Bit faster on the Current 2000 series Most of the Modern electric actuators are faster. In My case if the actuator Goes on my 106 I’ll replace it with a Good heavy duty Warner actuator. I agree they should Have Put the switch on the dash Wish they Had stayed with there one 2000 series design with Hydraulic lift and electronic Power steering But cub had good Luck with the actuator they used for the electric lift sleeve hitch so The figured using a electric actuator would Be fine for Lifting the deck and dozer Blade. It one of the Reasons the sub contracted out the snow blower to Bercomac instead of Making it internally even the 46inch front blade for the Cub 2000 series is made by Bercomac for Cub :thThumbsU
 

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Yes, I was going to suggest to you that it was only guiding one belt - if you clock it around I think it'd be in the proper location.

I'm going to check at work today too. :)
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Toolin and jsoluna... keep me posted. I'm pretty certain the main nut on the bottom is welded in place supporting a bushing the pulley spindle rests on. I am 100% certain the belt assembly is in the proper position because of the tensioners and mounting bracket locations.

I see what you guys are saying though and it makes sense the bar would be in that 1-3o'clock position. I'll double check everything when I get home.

Thanks again
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #16
Happy Saturday! I doubled checked the bottom nut and it is welded in place. I did notice that there is another nut on top of the spindles that could be loosened, but I would need to drop the whole belt assembly to do it. I might just keep an eye on it and have it on the list for next end of season switchover.
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Saturday
The cab came in yesterday and I was so excited I left work early to drive across town to get it! Brought it home and it was on within 2 hours! Woohoo!

I've uploaded 6 pics to the project folder: https://picasaweb.google.com/thegog...&authkey=Gv1sRgCIT-gvH36OSAAg&feat=directlink

After assembling it yesterday and then working out all the details this morning, I would say the Bercomac 700271-2 Universal Cab is a B+ fit. $344 inc. taxes.

NOTE: I did not have to make any modifications to the tractor frame like drilling holes in the foot rests, because the factory Cub snowblower came with "Cab Mounts." If I would have had a blade, I would have had to drill the holes and install the plates that came with the Bercomac cab. This saved a ton of time and apprehension of putting her under the knife.

I say B+ fit because of 3 issues:
1 - I had to remove the transmission disengagement lever in order to mount the rear support bracket. Hope I don't have to get towed : (
2 - I had to remove the hand crank chute rotate handle... there is not enough room in the cab to turn it completely and it causes the actual cab fabric to become misaligned from the corner supports. Might have to move an electric chute rotater(sp?) up the priority list!
3 - The fabric that covers both rear fenders hangs down just afew inches too low and will rub on the wheels.. I tried to adjust the whole system up, but it put the rigidity at risk.

All this being said, I believe I got a great deal and I'm in good shape for the first snowfall.

Whats left:
Custom winch toggle switch mount
 

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Coupla things:

1. Congrats! The Cab looks sweet!

2. I looked at work and I didn't find any 2000 Series with snowblower setup, so to comment on that belt guide further....how is it secured to the nut at the spindle? Welded? How is it secured up top? Just resting on the frame? If the belt is set up to keep constant tension, then that belt guide become less necessary. *wink wink*

3. Could you drill a hole for the trans release in the bracket for the Cab?

Happy Sunday. :)
 

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lawn/farm hobbiest
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Discussion Starter #19
Gotcha,
I'll keep an eye on the guide post... like I said if I can't get it to do what I want it to... it just might meet the sawzall : )

Good point on the transmission hole.... I thought of it but can't really see a good way to do it without bending and reshaping the bar itself. I'll have to keep this in the back of my head for creative engineering!
 

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I had a thought on the belt keeper bar. Could it be out of position in terms of it's angular (clock face) position?

In other words, in photo 24 of 30, if you looked at the lower pulley from below where the keeper bar is currently at a 9:00 position, maybe it wants to be at 12:00 or 1:00? Then the top end wouldn't interfere with the frame, and both the upper and lower portions of the bar would act as belt keepers for the two pulleys, respectively.

As it is right now with the lower portion running inside the lower belt, it's really only "keeping" the top belt instead of both belts. And even so, it would do better at a circumferencial position on the pulley where the belt is fully in the pulley groove, not where it's starting to leave the groove as it is right now. Having the bar at a position where the belt is fully seated will let it trap the belt effectively without having to get too close to the belt to do so.

I mocked up the photo here to show what I'm thinking.
While this sounds like a good idea, trust me, you will never get the lower belt on in the orientation you suggest. As far as the belt keeper interfering with the frame, I'd take a big pair of pliers and bend the keeper just enough to clear.
 
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