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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #81
Just for grins I spent 10 minutes searching for the coupling using pn 45045 as listed on the bag. Every hit showed it as superseded by the 62877 assembly. Hey, was worth a shot.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
One half of the axle case has a recessed lip that the HG service manual says is there to catch extra sealer. It was less then fun trying to scrap but the 3m disk knocked it down pretty fast.

Not at all sure I put enough sealant on it but won't find out until later. There is no gasket. The two halves slipped together real easy and torque sequence for the 13 bolts is in the service manual.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
Msg #35 of pg 3 shows the sloped lip cast in to the housing and the thrust washer that the motor pistons ride on. I didn't get a picture but did follow the service manual direction of using a rubber band [around the 5 pistons] to hold them in the motor block bores. One you get the shaft seated in it's recess in the case, there's enough room to sneak a scissors in and cut the rubber band.

I found that putting the center section on and running down a few of the cap screws was the easy way to get the shaft fully seated in the case. I then slipped the center section back off being careful to not disturb that motor and cut the rubber band. Before doing that the motor block kept trying to lean against the side of the case.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
The piston springs keep both motor blocks about an inch higher that they sit when the center section is bolted to the housing. Note that the charge pump is removed from the top side of the center section.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
Put the brake disk and caliper back on.
Put the wheel hub back on.
Take the axle out of the repair stand.
Bolt the pump to the axle.
Put the main drive pulley, torque bracket and filter bracket back on.

A couple more hose clamps and it's a transaxle again.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
One more cut next week and the mowing season should be over. Gonna leave the "donor" axle in my tractor for that and then do the end of season pressure washing. After that I'll yank the donor axle back out and put my repaired original back in. Gonna give the gasket sealer a day or two to cure then pour some oil in while its still on the bench. If that axle case is gonna leak I'd rather it leak on the bench. Which axle I rip open next depends on how that works out. Already decided to separate the pump from the axle on the donor and see how [bad] that coupling looks.
 

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8,978 Posts
Awesome job, thanks for all the pics!

Mike
 

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RWG75,

Thank you for the Step-by-step guide/instructions regarding this repair!

Now I really prefer these Peerless 6-Speed (3-H/3-L).

Only problem is availability/cost on parts...

-Thomas (12)
Port Orchard, Washington

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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368 Posts
RWG75,

Thank you for the Step-by-step guide/instructions regarding this repair!

Now I really prefer these Peerless 6-Speed (3-H/3-L).

Only problem is availability/cost on parts...

-Thomas (12)
Port Orchard, Washington

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
That's funny,, I have 2 of the 3 speed Hi/Lo setting in my shed because I prefer the Hydro's... Just so much easier to change mowing speeds..

djl
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
What he said (except for the shed inventory). I never drove a non-hydro but I can't even imagine how much I'd hate it after years of driving the hydro. Would probably have the same reaction to anything from the last few years as apparently they switched from hand control to foot control. Ok, maybe more car like but still sounds like it would feel strange.

So the seller of my "donor" mentioned that he had to re-glue the magnets for the stator. Just yanked the flywheel off and imagine my surprise when I found them N N N S S S instead of N S N S N S. So that's probably a common mistake as who thinks to check something like that. It's the missing cover hardware, including the regulator ground strap, that bugs me more. At least he did a crap job of glueing the magnets (elmers ??) and I was able to fix that pretty quick.

The real scary part: he's an auto mechanic by trade.
 

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If you run anything that requires your hands to operate with frequent adjustments (FEL, JB Jr, snowblower), once you use a foot-controlled hydro, you'll never want to go back to hand-controlled. Unless, of course, the foot-controlled hydro you're using isn't very robust, but that's not the control input design's fault.

Mike
 

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Minding my P's & Q's
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I agree. Nice write up and plenty of pictures to follow along on the work done. And thanks for posting the pic on MTF rather than a 3rd party site.
Makes me wonder if I should anticipate mine going out and order parts to put on the shelf. Sounds like a common problem in this Hydro-Gear trans.
I have 1250 hours on mine.
Thanks for taking all the time to post it up.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
A few thoughts on that question:

Spend some doing some searches around here. Phrases like "brake shaft" turn up several instances of the same problem I just had. I haven't tried "motor shaft" but might in a few minutes because all the hits I found only showed the brake shaft side of the coupling fail.

The only other instances of drive performance issues I spotted while over researching this thing were easily identifiable external things like broken mounting bolts / brackets, hung up belt tensioners, subtle adjustments of the control linkages and how exactly do I purge ALL the air outta this thing after doing an oil change.

Based on the tear down I just did, I can't imagine any thing else in this trans going bad. That assumes that it wasn't run for a few hundred hours only 1/2 filled with oil or other blatant abuse things like driving down a creek deep enough to let water in through the vent tube. This unit has almost 1200 hours without ever changing the oil and 90% of that time spent pulling (2) tow mowers that are roughly 300 lbs each. As in: spent most of its life [so far] dragging around it's own weight or more. The only thing that showed any kind of wear was the inside face of the center section, maybe some of the charge pump and likely the motor blocks where they meet the center section. I took every thing apart and didn't see anything else that I felt a need to replace.

Do they all eventually break this piece? I tend to think not based on how hard I had to search for instances of it happening. The same parts were used in a lot of different tractors for a lot of years and while it seems reasonable that many tractors went on to be toasters instead of getting fixed, I only found a small number of these fails around here. If you're remotely curious about it, yank the axle and check it.

This was my first time ever trying something like this and it took me about 2 hrs to get the donor harvested. Was probably 90 minutes to yank the failed one and I can imagine getting one out in an hour. When ya get it on the bench, it's one nut to take the drive pulley off, one nut to get the filter bracket off and (4) bolts to separate the pump from the axle and have the coupling in hand. Should be doable without removing anything else including the hoses or even draining the oil.

Maybe stay tuned for some pics of that because it's my plan before putting the donor axle back in the donor tractor. So far it's been working just fine but it does have one symptom I want to chase. Wheels on the ground, parking brake released, bypass valve in drive position, I can push the thing forward but not reverse. Tending to think its the coupling chewed up enough that it slips in one direction only but not gonna put money on that. Might just be one of the check valves hung up. I'll get back to ya on that. Have mostly been trying to avoid thinking about it while getting my primary back together.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
So I put my repaired original axle back in my tractor yesterday and a weird thing happened. After I purged it and put it back on the wheels I checked to see if I could roll it with the bypass valve in the drive position. Couldn't move it all pushing forward, was able to roll it backwards. As in: exact same symptom but opposite direction of the donor axle. Want to say that symptom wasn't there before the fail and fix but also pretty sure I never tested for it.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #96
Today I tossed the axle from the donor on the bench and poked around. I later drained it for the routine oil and filter change but this little diag was done with it filled and no hoses disconnected. The main objective was separating the pump from the axle to check the brake shaft coupling. The other objective was to look at the check valves and some interesting results there.

The bracket for the oil filter base is held on to one of the bolts that holds the pump to the axle. Remove the lock nut and it slips off then remove the nut and bolt holding the pump to the axle. The main drive pulley has to come out to get the two long bolts holding the pump on. The last one is in the remaining corner and HG put ALOT of lock tite on the bolts. There's no way to get at the bypass valve without doing this but again, I was mostly interested in coupling and it looked fine. As in: not a lot of rusty crusty dust that used to be splines.
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
A few reference pics here.

First one is the bypass valve removed and pulled apart.
Both check valves are under hex drive plugs in the center section. For some reason they're shaped differently and reasonably sure that the one on the direction control lever side is for reverse and the one on the hose coupling side is for forward.
 

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Big and Wide
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Discussion Starter #98
This is where leaving the oil in it came in handy as I wanted to try and figure out the bit about being able to push the tractor in one direction with the bypass valve in the drive position. With the pump separated from the axle and the coupling on the motor output shaft I was able to [try to] rotate the pump the way the [brake] axle shaft would if you were pushing the tractor.

With the bypass valve in the drive position, I was able to rotate the pump in one direction but not the other. My working theory is that corresponds to being to push the tractor in one direction but not the other. Putting the bypass valve in the transport position let me rotate the pump in both directions.

With the bypass valve back in the drive position, I pulled out the check valve on the lever side (reverse?) and I was again able to rotate the pump in both directions. I put that back in and took the other one out and was still only able to rotate it in one direction. Same direction every time. My theory is that the check valve (or seat) on that side (forward?) is leaking.

As the other axle in the other tractor has the same symptom in the opposite direction, I kinda want to do the same test on that one to verify a problem with the opposite check valve. I don't feel the need to satisfy that curiosity strong enough to pull the axle back out. Even with this symptom both axles seem to working fine [enough]. They both get up and down hills and don't try to roll away when parked on a hill. Leaking and likely loosing pressure: sure, enough to notice: not so much.

Ok campers, that's about it for me and this saga.
 

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Ok campers, that's about it for me and this saga.
While you've certainly earned a rest, I'd be lying if I said that I'm not disappointed that you aren't driving this troubleshooting all the way through.

Thanks for all the great info so far!

Mike
 

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Big and Wide
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #100
While you've certainly earned a rest, I'd be lying if I said that I'm not disappointed that you aren't driving this troubleshooting all the way through.
Ya mean check the check valves in the one I just put back together? Yeah that intellectual curiosity might bug me for a while but I think I'll get over it. Maybe not as right now I'm wondering if the pressure leak is from wear on the check valve or wear where it contacts the bore in the center section. That's kinda making me want to take the assumed good one out of the donor and try it in the original.

I could have done without that thought. The suspect one on the original, which is now completely put back together, is the one on the motion control lever side of the pump. I could get that out pretty easily by removing the fender and gas tank (again) and not even loose any oil.

Thanks for all the great info so far!
Probably a lot more than anybody really wants to know about a 20 yr old trans. I'm thinking probably more than I wanted to know about it.
 
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