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According to the chart on Small Engine Suppliers it's a 3/4" X 2 21/32 shaft. The Predator has a 1" 3.48". You can get a different collar/cage to mount. Additional shaft length shouldn't be problem space wise. I considered the 8HP for my splitter but being the frugal old fart that I am went with the $99 6HP and it's been splitting just fine for quite a few years. Generally starts first pull. Also use one to power my hydraulic lift trailer that I haul dirt with. They have been working fine. Now problem power wise with the splitter.
MikeC

ON Edit: Tried to find specs on your model. Didn't see that model on CLS site but they had a number of them w/ 24 in nomenclature, standard splitter, no lift powered by 5.5 and 6HP engines. Didn't see 8 hp till 25's and higher. So think 6 would work for you.
 

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According to the Briggs dealer portal the direct replacement is model 20S232-0036 which has a 1" crank so the Predator should be a direct bolt up. Some do well with them, I prefer to spend the extra coin and go with Briggs for after sales support.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks!

Can you guys please post links to the sources of your info? I'm seeing different info online myself for the original engine.

I would just pull the pump and take measurements, but I was hoping to pick up the engine and just swap it in, once this storm quits.

BTW, I have the same general concerns about the HF parts support down the road, but I don't own this splitter (belongs to my MIL, FIL passed away but apparently didn't specify that we could have it, even though it's been here for the past 5+ years). My wife told me that the MIL has asked for us to return it so it can be sold.

I'll post more info later, but here's a pic of the damage...

Mike
 

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The old engine needs to come off, why not pull it and confirm the shaft size? It is a ten horsepower, highly unlikely the shaft is 3/4". At worst you would only need to change the coupling spider.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Like I said, I was hoping to grab a HF engine while I was out last night, and in the area. No big deal, not driving or going outside today (other than storm cleanup at some point), so I won't be fixing it immediately.

I have no manual or parts diagram for the splitter, so I need to wait until tomorrow to get ahold of American CLS (hopefully they aren't closed for the holiday). I don't want to destroy the pump in the process of guessing how to remove it.

As promised, here's the full story and some pics...


This splitter was purchased new by my FIL (about 10+ years ago). He heated his house with wood, and was in the process of building another before he got sick and died a few years later. At one point, he was heating both places with wood, as he was working on finishing the new house so they could move in.

I used it here occasionally as well over the years (I used to get free wood from his new lot), and it landed here last, as we were using it after he got too sick. The new house was sold, so my access to free wood went away, other than cutting some trees here, finding dead stuff in the woods behind my house here.

I assumed that the splitter would just be given to my wife, but apparently my MIL was asking for it back so she could sell it. I was on the fence about just buying it from her (mostly because my family wouldn't do that and it just surprised me).

But, my FIL was always complaining about the Briggs. He'd bent pushrods at least twice, requiring expensive repairs. He'd always said that the next time it broke down, he'd swap it out for a HF Chonda clone.

Fast forward to last weekend, I looked at it before splitting, saw evidence of an obvious mouse nest, and a lot of leaked oil on the base of the engine, and the engine mount on the tiller. Checked the oil, it looked very low.

So yesterday, I pulled the blower housing, which requires removing the carb (I've dealt with this before on this engine, what an assinine design.). Cleaned out the nest, but managed to tear the breather tube in the process. Wrapped that in electrical tape, and moved on to the oil.

Running out of daylight, I decided to just top off the oil, split the wood, and change it later. Unfortunately, it took almost a quart of oil! I was concerned that it was overfilled, but there's no dipstick, so I filled it to the top of the filler threads.

In hindsight, this is probably where I should have stopped, drained the oil, and put in the exact amount needed per a manual. I'm not sure that I overfilled it, but it would have given me peace of mind.

Anyway, filled the gas, opened the valve and it started on the second pull, and ran perfectly!

...For 10 minutes...

I noticed that there was a thin, oily mess under the engine, then I was seeing puffs of smoke coming from the exhaust. Within a minute, the engine slowed, then exploded...

I saw a smoking piece of metal fly about 8 feet, landing in the tractor cart, about a foot away from my 8-year-old son, who had just enjoyed a ride in the cart before helping me and my 12-year-old son split and stack. I told him that was hot and not to touch it, and that we were done working for the day (they'd already helped clean up leaves in the working area earlier in the day).

That piece looks like the bottom end of the aluminum connecting rod (bolt still intact), and the aluminum crankcase is now ventilated with a pretty big hole. I found some, but not all, of the shrapnel from the case.

I'm puzzled on what caused this, whether I overfilled the oil, or it leaked out from the pre-existing leak, or if gas mixed in and diluted the oil while running if the needle/seat were bad from age (I rarely run this anymore). I think I can rule out the carb, as it was running so well.

Pics below...

Mike

PS: After seeing the oil leak last week, I told my wife that we should give this back to my MIL, and I'd buy my own splitter. Several benefits of this: Gets the MIL monkey off my back, gets any sad memories of my FIL out of the way, and I could upgrade to a vertical/horizontal unit.

Since then, I've been researching splitters, and it turns out that American CLS splitters are expensive, much better built than the box store variety, and really hold their value.

So, I might repower and offer my MIL to buy it, then add a log lift to it.
 

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More pics...

Mike
 

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If using a Lovejoy setup you can even shorten the crankshaft if needed so can use the current setup. I recently did this on a Yard Machines splitter that replacing an old Briggs 5 hp L-head with a new Briggs 6.5 hp OHV. Just once the crankshaft is cut squarely it will need a small bevel done the end of the crankshaft to make installing the coupler easier. I only had to shorten by 5/8" but it can be different depending how the engine mount is setup.
 

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Thanks guys.

I did spend some time online this morning, hoping for some wisdom on YouTube. While I didn't see a repower of this splitter make/model, there was a pretty good one for a Craftsman splitter. Granted, he was replacing a Tecumseh, but the guy mentioned that the 6.5 HP engine's shaft was shorter and narrower. Narrower was solved by changing the Lovejoy coupler on the engine side. The different length caused him to have to buy a new bracket.

I'd prefer to avoid both of those problems. We'll see. It does look like a Lovejoy setup, but the weather was certainly not ideal for playing with it today.

After running my Honda snowblower today, if I owned this splitter, I'd definitely put a Honda on it.

Mike
 

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Why not just ship it back to her to sell as-is. Might not get enough to cover your replacing the engine.
It died while in my care. Yes, it was probably well on its way to happening anyway, and I should have sent it back sooner, but it's my responsibility as I was technically "borrowing" it at the time.

Even if it wasn't family that I'll have to live with, I wouldn't return something borrowed without fixing it.

Mike
 

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It died while in my care. Yes, it was probably well on its way to happening anyway, and I should have sent it back sooner, but it's my responsibility as I was technically "borrowing" it at the time.

Even if it wasn't family that I'll have to live with, I wouldn't return something borrowed without fixing it.

Mike
Mike, You are in rare company then. I hate loaning stuff out and getting it back broke even I can easily fix it most times. What is worst to me is when they bring it back and say nothing about tearing it up and I find when I need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I emailed American CLS today, no response yet.

I called Briggs, they say the shaft is 1" x 2.844".

When I try to look for replacement Briggs engines, I'm seeing a variety of shaft lengths, all supposedly for the 202432 series engines.

I'd have to look again, but I swore this engine says it's 8 HP on the front, FWIW. It often groaned with big nasty logs on the splitter.

Looks like the 6.5 Predator is out, as it will need too much customization.

I'd love to try a 13 HP Honda or Predator on there.

Mike
 

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I could be wrong but I believe that if you put a larger engine on , that it won't do much of anything unless you also change the pump to a higher gpm
I have a dirty hands 22 ton I bought at lowes with a kohler on it and it is a vertical / horizontal and I get big rounds to split so the vertical is a must have,,if you have not tried one, I don't think you would do without it
 

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Current Briggs replacement is the 19N132-0055-F1 unless you want to go with the Vanguard 19L232-0036-F1 both of which are 10 hp gross or 14.5 ft-lb torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I could be wrong but I believe that if you put a larger engine on , that it won't do much of anything unless you also change the pump to a higher gpm
I have a dirty hands 22 ton I bought at lowes with a kohler on it and it is a vertical / horizontal and I get big rounds to split so the vertical is a must have,,if you have not tried one, I don't think you would do without it
I'm not a hydraulics guy, either; but was hoping that more HP would mean less stress on the engine (less likely to slow down when the splitting gets tough).

Mike
 

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Current Briggs replacement is the 19N132-0055-F1 unless you want to go with the Vanguard 19L232-0036-F1 both of which are 10 hp gross or 14.5 ft-lb torque.
What's your source of this info? I'm dizzy from all the options I'm finding in various places.

Mike
 

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I'm not a hydraulics guy, either; but was hoping that more HP would mean less stress on the engine (less likely to slow down when the splitting gets tough).

Mike
Particularly large or still "wet" pieces slow it down, but I don't notice any signs from the engine that it is struggling
 

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The two replacement Briggs engines for this is the Vanguard 19L232-0036-F1 and the Professional 1450 19N132-0055-F1. Both are 10 gross hp rated. Not cheap even with them being Promos.

Mentioning not splitting some tuff stuff. I had seen where a 30 ton couldn't even split a chuck of wood yet I can with simple wedges and sledge hammer. Wasn't my splitter just someone trying show me up because I at the time couldn't afford a hydraulic splitter. He was so ashamed of his new splitter he left without even getting a load of wood. Now of what I was splitting might have been a bit large too since it was 60" diameter blocks.
 
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