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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks I will look online for those shim washers and I will also send pictures soon now that help free
 

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OK, you answered the question as I was asking it. That makes sense now.

I have always just replaced the spindle shafts if I had issues, but again McMaster Carr has what you may need.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Also two of the three are new spindles and of course bearings and races are all new
 

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OK, on the bottom, the two washers that make up the grease seal work like this:
The thin washer goes against the bearing, the blade cradle will clamp that in place and lock the bearing inner race to the shaft. So obviously that washer spins with the shaft.

The other washer must be driven into the spindle housing set far enough in to not rub the "top" of the blade cradle, but also not be touching the other washer.



It is much easier to assemble these spindles off the deck housing, then partly disassemble them to reassemble the deck.

This way you can have the top side assembled, and have the whole assemble up side down to properly drive in the seal ring. Then install the blade cradle, tighten it up, and check the rotation and possible end play.

If it feels good, remove the pulley, mount the spindle in the deck, reinstall the pulley. Then remove the lower nut and install the blade.

If it is too tight, remove the pulley and bearing, add a shim on the shaft and reassemble.

Hope this makes sense.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks have to wait till Monday to check on those shims have had all three together multiple times and they are all too tight.
 

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Did you replace the outer races in the housing? Be sure they are really seated, I have seen that problem before.

Another reason to remove the housing from the deck shell to do this work.

Sheldon
 

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If you want to try something, put it all together and tighten the nut properly, it will be locked up and hard to turn correct? So then take a block of wood and a large hammer and strike the shaft on the pulley end a couple of times. See if it turns. If not, strike the shaft on the blade end a couple of times. Then try it again. If something is not quite seated that should loosen it up some. If it's still locked up, then it's shim time.

You can go to harbor freight and get a cheap set of calipers if you need them to measure id and od of the shims you need to buy. I am guessing what thickness you would need. Maybe some .002, some .005 and then you can use combinations of those? You may be able to get a feeling for how much shim you need. If you slowly turn the nut till the shaft gets a little drag on it, and then watch the nut as you tighten it down, if it turns just a little bit you are not going to need very much shimming. If it still turns a lot before it stops you know you are going to need more shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yes replace both races they are seated firmly can always tell this by the sound they make when seated. We'll have to wait to see what shims are available and start from there . Thanks for all the help up until now I will let you know after I Mike the spindle so I will know what size shims to ask for and see what thicknesses are available. If any.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thank you for your help everything is seated. Finding the shim is going to be the problem if anybody has found the shims please let me know.the ID of the shim is not the problem the OD of the shim is where I'm having a problem because it is on the smaller side of the bearing it must not stick out far enough that it touches the cone. I have Miked it already and have the numbers written in the garage will post soon as I spend a little time with my wife on mother's day first. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Called McMaster-Carr today and they do not have a shim that they can help me with. The ID of the shim is 1 in but the OD of the shim cannot be any larger than 1.350 or the cage of the bearing Will eat them because it protrudes .070"the smallest 1"ID shim that they carry has an OD of 1.50 so no luck there. I Miked the spindle from shoulder to shoulder and it measured 1.379 then I placed bearings on spindle and assembled and marked were they sit on spindle. Then disassembled and Miked distance between two faces of bearings it was1.575 a difference of .196 which is over 3/16 of an inch. Remember I mentioned earlier that there was a quarter inch I was a little off. Nonetheless that's a lot of shims! Doesn't make sense to me never did. My original question was should I tighten the blade not to a preload and then back off till I achieve the correct end play and then rely on the lock nut to keep everything in place. So I also called timken today. Their advice was to do the ladder went into great detail with me how to first preload the bearings and then set them . sorry guys but I'm going to go with what they recommend. I will be honest and let everyone know if the blades fly off and take a leg off of one of my horses. But thanks for the advice.
 

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Go to www.gravelyparts.com, see the phone number and give them a call. I'll bet a dollar to a donut they have what you need.
 

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You did say earlier that at least some of these are new spindle shafts, correct? Do they match the old ones?

Agreed, there is no way you should have that much gap/difference in the length of that assembly.

Almost seems like a spacer is missing somewhere?

The IPL that Franklin linked to originally is dated 10-88, deck model #46002, and shows the two grease seal washers on the top as well as the bottom like other GRAVELY spindles. Yet you have explained yours is not like that and has a shoulder on the pulleys.

What year/model # is your 24G? What model # is your deck? Are you sure the spindle shafts are correct?

The earliest version of the 24G had a number of features carried over from the 8000-G tractors but was quickly upgraded in late 88 to match the features of the Pro G tractors. So I am wondering if the earliest decks also had some differences which might explain why your top sides do not have grease seal washers and possibly why this thing is not going together correctly.

The GRAVELY parts radar only shows two 24G 72" decks, both show the top side grease seal washers and both date from 10-88 and newer.

I don't have a 24G, I have never worked on the 24G 72" deck, but as someone who has made major upgrades to a Pro G series tractor, including the individual wheel brakes that are standard on the 24G, I am well acquainted with most of the features and differences between the 24G and other G series tractors.

If you assemble these spindles as you have just said, the blade cradle will not be locked on its top side, its motion will compress the bearing and it will bounce on the nut - the nut will fail.

And/or, the inner race of the bearing will spin with the bearing cage and destroy the spindle.

It is not normal to have to set a preload every time you change blades.

How long have you owned this tractor? Have you ever changed the blades? You most likely did not adjust any preload when you installed the new or sharpened blades in the past? When you take that nut off you would loose this preload you are planning on adjusting.

Something else is wrong here.

And again I would recommend removing the spindle housing from the deck shell to do this work.

Unless some guy at Timken is familiar with this specific 32 year old application, he is going to approach your question like the front wheel bearings on a 65 Chevy, having done both lots of traditional wheel bearings and my share of GRAVELY spindles, they may be the same bearings, but it is a totally different application.

I would be very interested to see the front page of your mower deck IPL that you posted the diagram blow up from.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Mike thank you so much for the phone number gravely.com talked to these guys today they told me to tighten down the nut and then back it back off until the correct tension is on the blades. Just as I thought. But anyways thanks for all the help from all of you. Sheldon when you call them tell him it's a 24g with a 72 inch deck they'll tell you the same thing.
 

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Well, I do trust the people at Richards, so that makes that deck spindle different than every other spindle GRAVELY has ever made.

I still have the question as to the top grease seals vs the no top grease seals.

Do you have a model number for your deck? or the info from the Operator's Manual you posted the drawing of the spindle from?

I would also think that this is very important information when changing the blades. So the operator's manual for the model 46002 72" deck for the 24 G (the one that shows the top grease seal washers) makes no mention of adjusting the spindle preload when replacing the blades.

Check out page 4

https://www.gravelymanuals.com/pdf/72_Inch_Center_Mount_Mower_OM_19881000.pdf

In fact it is like every other GRAVELY mower owners manual simply describing the removal and reverse installation with no mention of any special measures or adjustments.

This suggests that your mower deck is not a model 46002 or the later 887005 deck and is in fact as I suggested earlier, a unique version offered only of the first run of 24G tractors.

I would be interested to know.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #38
the spindle in that exploded view is not the same it is spline on both sides mine is keyed on the top and splined on the bottom when I spoke to Richard's today he walked me through every part from top to bottom everything is in place and nothing is missing. I think I showed an exploded view earlier in my post of my spindles. I'm also pretty sure that I said that my owners manual shows the same exploded view as you are showing me but mine is not the same I have every factory book to this tractor. I can send you pictures of all of them but I'm not sure what it is you're looking for. Preload on a bearing is only done the first time after installing new bearings and races. I was explained to tightening to a torque setting of 50 ft pounds with a new lock nut.while turning the blade. Then loosen nut one full turn. Then tighten again by hand until the correct tension is on blade said it should spin about two to three times with one hard push. And yes this has to be repeated except for the preload every single time you change the blades for sharpening or replacement. This also enables you to adjust for bearing wear. Again thanks for the help. First time I ever called Richards very impressed with the knowledge he knew exactly what I was talking about. Again if I can send you something from one of my manuals that will help you I will just let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Gravely 44444 72" Deck PM400 MOWER DRIVE. This is how I found my correct spindles by using these numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
This is not what's in my book my book is the same as yours. And it's the one that came with my tractor when we bought it new in 1989 but these are the correct spindle housings.
 
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