[Oilingas]

The 8240 started losing RPMs again recently. After several unsuccessful attempts to rectify the problem by reaching under the shroud and turning the spring collar counterclockwise I finally pulled the carb only to find the spring was mangled. The air vane seemed a bit flimsy so I purchased a new one, as well as, a new spring. There's no screw on top of the vane, how do you remove it?

 

[Yard Nazi]

Hi! Looks like you remove the throttle disc and disconnect the old spring and pull the governor assembly straight out. Here is a link to the procedure. Bill

https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball21.pdf

 

[Oilingas]

Yep, that oughta help! Thanks, Bill.

You guys ever dry out? I remember the last time we talked you were preparing to build an ark........

 

[Yard Nazi]

Yep, that oughta help! Thanks, Bill.

You guys ever dry out? I remember the last time we talked you were preparing to build an ark........

Hi! I don't know if we set a record for the number of times the river crested here or not. The Mississippi flooded four times so far this year. The city put up and took down the Hesco sand barriors every time. I'm sure they were getting tired of fighting the flood waters. Bill

 

[Oilingas]

Bill,

Had the manual pulled up on my iPad while changing the vane and spring. Made all the difference in the world. Changing those parts solved the RPM problem but it seems like this old Boy is getting tired. I've replaced the muffler, completely re-built the carb, air vane, governor spring, fuel and primer lines, primer bulb, new plug, new air filter, new blade.... I even bought the little plastic plugs that cover the screws in the carb assembly. It runs wonderfully in low or thin grass, but yesterday, I went through some high, thick, somewhat wet grass, and it just doesn't seem to have the power it once had. Any suggestions?

 

[Lawnboy77]

I'm assuming you cleaned the exhaust ports? Is the compression still up around 120 psi? Maybe crankcase compression to...might need to replace the crank seals and flip the reeds over.

 

[Oilingas]

Lawnboy77,

Yep, the ports weren't too bad but I cleaned them well, anyway. Haven't checked compression, that sounds like a good idea. This thing has the dreaded BBC. How difficult would it be to change the seals? Also, "flip the reeds"?

Oil

 

[Yard Nazi]

Hi! 77 covered pretty much everything I could think of. The only other thing is to make sure the governor is working as it should and not binding or catching on anything. You didn't say whether it ran okay before the problem with the governor spring. Also, minimum compression on an F series is 80. Operating range hot is 90-105 and cold is 100-115. Bill

Here is a link to the specs page.

https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball64.pdf

 

[Lawnboy77]

Lawnboy77,

"flip the reeds"?

Oil

Yes, over time those reeds tend to bend in away from the sealing surface of the cylinder cover, so sometimes if they aren't too bad you can just flip the reeds over to take out that excessive gap between the cylinder cover and reeds. If you need to replace them they are not real expensive and are still readily available. These 2 strokes really need to breath good, and good sealing reeds and crank seals will go along way to help out that crankcase compression to help get that charge of fuel mix into the combustion chamber and efficiently get those exhaust gasses out of the cylinder to. You have already replaced the muffler and cleaned the ports so you are a good way toward making it breath good.:fing32:

 

[Oilingas]

Bill,

Tell ya the truth, I think I've been chasing this problem for sometime now. I've tried addressing all the usual and easily correctable problems, like the primer bulb, and don't get me wrong, every little change has had a positive impact but there's still something the matter. I think you and '77 are onto something with checking compression.

'77

I definitely have not looked at the reeds. Something else to think about. I'm gonna start with a compression gauge and go from there.

Oil