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Discussion Starter #21
on the spline coupler for the pump drive ? was it a dry fit
steel to steel will not play well with each other with out lube

john
Im not sure what you mean but I was thinking of using piece of the mower deck driveshaft the part with the female spline for the pto. cut the ears off and machine to fit into the end of a love joy then mount the other half to the 1/2 inch shaft on the pump that should be good as long as its all true ofcourse. Should end up similar to what another forum member cvans did with his years ago.

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Does that put you out of a job, Kevin?
 

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Dang!! That sucks!

Hope you found a new place of employment.
 

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How come everyone else can score those Ransoms? They always make big bucks around here! That steering valve has an additional function block mounted on it. Its a load sensing, priority flow control. Cool! You run your aux pump straight through it, first inline, and it bypasses all the flow (like power beyond) until you turn the wheel, then it uses just what you need and the return flow goes to tank through the steering valve. What flow you don't need for steering is still available at the bypass port. Great for a loader!!!! Nice score!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
How come everyone else can score those Ransoms? They always make big bucks around here! That steering valve has an additional function block mounted on it. Its a load sensing, priority flow control. Cool! You run your aux pump straight through it, first inline, and it bypasses all the flow (like power beyond) until you turn the wheel, then it uses just what you need and the return flow goes to tank through the steering valve. What flow you don't need for steering is still available at the bypass port. Great for a loader!!!! Nice score!
Yeah the ransomes was a score. The steering valve is pretty awesome aswell as the double ended cylinder. Funny how it only is connected to one end of the ram but I guess it's better than a single ended ram because it takes the same amount of fluid either way making the steering even from side to side. There's a bunch of other neat hydraulic bits on it :)

Started building the subframe it's turning out good so far will post pics soon
 

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Discussion Starter #28
got some more work done on the subframe its mostly done still some gusseting I want to do. welded it airtight so I can use it as a res if I want. made the mounts for the uprights similar in design to the originals but beefier! its sortof a quick connect but there would be hydraulics to disconect. got the uprights almost finished today everything is coming together.
 

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got some more work done on the subframe its mostly done still some gusseting I want to do. welded it airtight so I can use it as a res if I want. made the mounts for the uprights similar in design to the originals but beefier! its sortof a quick connect but there would be hydraulics to disconect. got the uprights almost finished today everything is coming together.
Looks like you're doing a helluva job! Can't wait to see it finished!


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Discussion Starter #30
Got a bit more done on the loader made the angle braces and front mount. Its turning out nice. Almost ready to weld the lift cylinder mounts and was wondering how much shaft on the cyl should be showing with the bucket flat on the ground. Or how high off the ground the bucket mounts on the lift arms are supposed to be when the cyls are All the way down?

Anyways a heres a pic showing the new mounts
 

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Got a bit more done on the loader made the angle braces and front mount. Its turning out nice. Almost ready to weld the lift cylinder mounts and was wondering how much shaft on the cyl should be showing with the bucket flat on the ground. Or how high off the ground the bucket mounts on the lift arms are supposed to be when the cyls are All the way down?

Anyways a heres a pic showing the new mounts
With the bucket all the way down and flat you should have a digging depth of a couple inches.

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Digging depth - bucket bottom level and cutting edge 2-3" below grade.

Park the tractor on 2x8's with the bucket heel and the cutting edge sitting on the floor. When the bucket is curled to level the bottom, the cutting edge will fall in that range and the front tires should almost lift off the planks.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well back at it again after putting the tractor in the barn for the last few months, I decided to pull it out and get back at it. I just got the old yoke for the mower deck drive shaft turned down to fit into a 1 3/8 bore lovejoy type connector just gonna slide a bolt through and call it good. the machine shop said welding to the sintered metal was not very strong. now getting ready to fab a mount and then ill be onto the plumbing. really need this thing for my yard work and gardening :)

ill post some pics up soon
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I got the pump mount built its a tight fit but looks like it will work good. also scored a set of tires and wheels from a kubota bx 24x12x12 rears and 16x7.50x8 fronts. gonna be sweet with these tires but im going to have to do a spindle upgrade or swap rims on the front beacuse there 4 bolt. but for 250$ i couldnt go wrong!

also ive been salvaging tons of hydraulic fittings,hoses and components from the ransomes. salvaged a filter mount but not sure if its the right type as it seems to have some sort of bypass valve in it and was on a return line. im want to finish setting up the loader before i add the hydraulic steering because im really itching to try this thing out and thats a whole other can o worms!

now im wondering about the best/simplest way to incorporate the hyd res into the two uprights was thinking about pairing the two tanks at the bottom with jic 10 hydraulic hoses teeing in the middle for the pump feed. will this be enough? also i see alot of ppl running a filter on the suction line between the tank and pump is this the way to do it or should it be on the return to tank from the control valve? also with the two posts connected at the bottom if the return only goes to one side then the side with out will constantly be filling from the lower hose which tees to the pump would this cause flow problems and cavitation?? also then im gonna need to vented filler caps which can be bulky.

had another idea of using the sub frame for a resesvoir and incorporating it with a little box under the transmission with a filler neck coming up by the gear shifter, it would be a tight fit but less hoses and connections because it would be a single tank.

well anyways id better post some pics!!
 

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I suggest the single tank approach. If you use two uprights I don't think #10 is big enough. It should be suction hose. the filter you have is a return line filter and should go from the tank line of valve into the reservoir (on its out port). The steering valve you have has a Load Sense bypass valve. So full pump flow goes into valve and the pressure beyond goes to loader. The bypass valve will only take what it needs when it is steering.
 

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now im wondering about the best/simplest way to incorporate the hyd res into the two uprights was thinking about pairing the two tanks at the bottom with jic 10 hydraulic hoses teeing in the middle for the pump feed. will this be enough? also i see alot of ppl running a filter on the suction line between the tank and pump is this the way to do it or should it be on the return to tank from the control valve? also with the two posts connected at the bottom if the return only goes to one side then the side with out will constantly be filling from the lower hose which tees to the pump would this cause flow problems and cavitation?? also then im gonna need to vented filler caps which can be bulky.
The reservoir system that I've used on my GT's FEL for 22 years is both posts with a 3/4" pressure hose tying them together at the bottom. Return flow goes to the one post with a sealed filler plug and the pump supply comes from the vented second post. The filter is on the suction line right at the pump.

GT's operate in various attitudes, up slope, down slope, and cross slope, so that a shallow flat reservoir runs the risk of the fluid collecting on one side and the outlet to the pump running dry.

The vent on mine is a cross drilled 1/2" pipe plug with a small bit of screen pushed into the bottom of the plug. Compressible air flows easier than non-compressible hydraulic fluid. Hydraulic pumps will typically operate at 3-4 inches of mercury negative pressure without cavitation.

On a GT with it's typically short supply of real estate, filter locations are optional, in the return line or in the pump supply line, wherever space is available. Arguments for either are valid. Many GT aftermarket FELs with independent hydraulic systems had no filter at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
i do like the idea of the posts but its gonna be tricky to plumb it all

but i did some more measuring and i could fit resevoir about 5 inches tall 7 wide and 12 long which is roughly 6.8 litres combined with the subframe crossmember about 3.7 litres im looking at roughly 10l of fluid not including what will be in the filter and hoses etc

i mocked up a carboard box into place seems like i could make it work what do you guys think?
 

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The advantage of a relatively shallow reservoir is that you can make use of some otherwise wasted space under the tractor.

The disadvantages are; the location of the pump supply port, the effect on fluid level at the supply port when operating on slopes, the reservoir surface area for dumping heat, the confined space which allows poor air circulation, and the location of a fill port and vent.

The advantages of using the posts are; they are already there, slope operations have a minimal effect on fluid level at the supply port, large surface area for dumping heat, air circulation is not an issue, and the fill port and vent is easily accessible.

Disadvantages . . . what disadvantages?? Plumbing is done once, heat occurs with every use and must be dealt with, either passively using the larger surface area posts for the reservoir, or with the possible added expense of a fan and oil cooler with the belly reservoir.

Your choice.
 
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