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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I found a loader the other day!! I think its a wright way loader it is in nice shape and came with pump, control valve and a subframe that I need to rebuild or modify to fit my kubota g3200. I know its only a 10hp and not hydro but its what I have and I think its stronger then some other garden tractors that had loaders available. And I've seen the kind of stuff russian guys are doing on youtube with there china diesel rototillers so anything is possible. I've also read about a guy from the forum having axle issues but I think his loader was hanging too far off the front of the tractor needing more ballast and duals might have had something to do with it. gonna mount mine further back. I look at lots of tractors and even bigger ones and some of the axles stick out even more.

I plan on building a hydraulic three point hitch and also adding an orbital valve and steering cylinder for power steering. Is my pump gonna be enough? all I know is its a haldex not to sure of the psi or gpm sticker is half missing but I think it can run either way which is handy for mounting. the control valve looks in great shape still has stickers on the fittings don't know much about it other then it was made in italy and i think it has float on the lift side. I picked some 75lb jd wheel weights of cl for 75 bucks what a score and might get the rear tires filled aswell for more weight

anyways I started a thread over in the kubota section but man is it ever dead overthere! lol

http://www.mytractorforum.com/17-kubota-forum/872450-kubota-g3200-loader-project.html

Did some mocking up last night looks like it should be pretty easy to mount. going to make new bracing to the front area. I also removed the deck lift mechanism to make more room. looks like I'm gonna need to bend the brake and clutch pedals in a little. but this loader is really a nice size for the tractor. I think its a wright way loader and I like the way the arms are tapered. the guy had it on a case 400 series tractor but i think it might have been on a jd because i noticed some green paint on the hydraulic pump mount and some yellow on the subframe crossmember

Im also thinking about the hydraulic reservoir and wondering if i should rebuild the the uprights and make the right one a reservoir. what do you think?
 

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You are going to be a happy camper with that loader! :thThumbsU

It doesn't take a lot of horsepower to use a loader. More power gives better tractor acceleration, not more lift capability. Weight is much more critical.

Your valve does have a float position on the left spool. The long cover at the back of the spool is the giveaway. The pump will also handle steering and a 3PH. I suggest that you install a system pressure relief right after the pump that will satisfy the needs of the power steering. The loader valve set has a built in relief that can be set at a lower pressure commensurate with the tractor's ability to handle the desired payload. Likewise, an auxiliary valve set for the 3PH and any additional tasks can be had with a built in relief to handle those tasks.

I also have a Wright Way loader on my MF1655, but it has been heavily modified. It was originally installed on a GE Electrac. When I purchased it, I installed it on a MF12H and then on my 1655. The only original parts now are the hydraulics and the arms. Both posts serve as the reservoir with a 3/4" hydraulic hose connecting them at the bottom.

Clearance between the hood and the arm crossmember when raising and lowering the arms is one of the two critical dimensions. The other is the space required to get your boots between the rear fender and the loader post when getting on and off the tractor.

This is mine right after doing its last lift before being temporarily retired (9 years and counting). The lift was the 1250 lb crate at the entrance to the garage.



This is how the subframe is connected to the rear axle and the front of the frame, just behind the front axle. There is no connection to the frame between those 2 points.



 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Well haven't got a whole lot done. I think I'm going to re build new uprights out of 2x3 rectangle tubing. Also want to make a new subframe because the original one is a bit bent and really doesn't seem that beefy. I need to have the oil reservoir somewhere and the uprights seem like the best place.

Also I need to find a splined coupler for the kubotas mower deck pto. The one right below the engine going through the axle pivot but its an oddball size with 10 splines just cant seem to find anywhere. Need help with this. I was almost thinking of just sliding a tight fitting thick pipe over the splines and using the little bolt to hold it on then weld to a lovejoy and the rest is simple. I think this is a good place for the pump because its down low and would ensure pump always has oil. i know pumps dont like to starve of oil.

Anyways what I did do was remake the driveshaft rubber bushing. It was just ripped, sloppy, super loose and rattly from being 30 years old. so i made a new one out of conveyor belt and some misc stuff I had around. Seems a bit better
now although there might be some spline play still making it rattle. And yes I cut it by hand with an olfa knife and some different drill bits haha even sleeved the holes with some metric tube I had from motorbike hardware I had sure beats paying the$$$ kubota wants for the part. Also put a new fan belt on because you have to pull the drivesahft to change it anyways and it was probly the original belt.
 

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That Kubota spline might be proprietary. I know they use a number of non standardized items as I've come to find via my dad's BX1500. If a Google search for a Kubota 10 point spline comes back fruitless it may tell you all you need to know.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

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You can get lovejoy couplings with a small center pilot that are meant to be machined. It shouldn't cost that much for a good machine shop to do it properly, much cheaper than ripping the splines off the shaft.
 

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Use 2x4 rectangular tubing for the posts/reservoirs. The 2x3 doesn't hold quite enough fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
so i found a source for the spline coupler but tried to order it online and no one ships it to canada!! :-( WTF!!! I always have difficulty ordering from the US it drives me nuts

That Kubota spline might be proprietary. I know they use a number of non standardized items as I've come to find via my dad's BX1500. If a Google search for a Kubota 10 point spline comes back fruitless it may tell you all you need to know.
definatley oddball it seems that ihc cub pto is the same dimension as kubota and hub city list a coupler for ihc cub/kubota part number 0332-00340. and the price for it was 70bucks or so

You can get lovejoy couplings with a small center pilot that are meant to be machined. It shouldn't cost that much for a good machine shop to do it properly, much cheaper than ripping the splines off the shaft.
I cant see a machine shop cutting internal splines into anything for very cheap its like 100 bucks an hr or so and im not even sure they could do it thought of getting the yoke turned down but that would even cost 100 bucks on its own and i wouldnt be able to use it for the mower again. also with a pipe over the splines and a shear pin holding it not sure how would it rip splines off the shaft? does a hydraulic pump draw that much load. it only has a 1/2 inch input with a teeny key

Use 2x4 rectangular tubing for the posts/reservoirs. The 2x3 doesn't hold quite enough fluid.
good call more is better how about wall thickness 1/8 or 3/16?
 

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The slightest play in a pipe over the splines will wear the shaft. It could also side load the pump. All of it will be aggravated by having the lovejoy coupling ahead of the shaft.
 

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good call more is better how about wall thickness 1/8 or 3/16?
This one uses all 1/8" wall for all of the tubing. Stress points are gusseted with 1/4" plate.

 

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You are going to be a happy camper with that loader! :thThumbsU

It doesn't take a lot of horsepower to use a loader. More power gives better tractor acceleration, not more lift capability. Weight is much more critical.

Your valve does have a float position on the left spool. The long cover at the back of the spool is the giveaway. The pump will also handle steering and a 3PH. I suggest that you install a system pressure relief right after the pump that will satisfy the needs of the power steering. The loader valve set has a built in relief that can be set at a lower pressure commensurate with the tractor's ability to handle the desired payload. Likewise, an auxiliary valve set for the 3PH and any additional tasks can be had with a built in relief to handle those tasks.

I also have a Wright Way loader on my MF1655, but it has been heavily modified. It was originally installed on a GE Electrac. When I purchased it, I installed it on a MF12H and then on my 1655. The only original parts now are the hydraulics and the arms. Both posts serve as the reservoir with a 3/4" hydraulic hose connecting them at the bottom.

Clearance between the hood and the arm crossmember when raising and lowering the arms is one of the two critical dimensions. The other is the space required to get your boots between the rear fender and the loader post when getting on and off the tractor.

This is mine right after doing its last lift before being temporarily retired (9 years and counting). The lift was the 1250 lb crate at the entrance to the garage.



This is how the subframe is connected to the rear axle and the front of the frame, just behind the front axle. There is no connection to the frame between those 2 points.
Hey.... Thats a Grizzly Tool crate.....
 

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greencruiser, that loader is sweet! going to make a nice work rig when done!

I hear you on it being dead in the forums too- Maybe the nice weather has some outside instead of sharing on the forum LOL. I did notice a lot of long time members seem to have not logged in in years too though. weird.

Me, I get to post lots of pictures and stuff because I have short work periods on stuff with long time in between due to work, and kids. I'm trying to rebuild 3 tractors at the same time, keep my house up, spend time with my family, auto repairs, work... it never ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Right, Kevin, and this was inside the crate.

ooohh sweet can I borrow it?? jk. wish I had a lathe and milling machine to make some of those small custom pieces that either dont exist or are unobtanium! one day for now my torches, drill press and mig/ark welder will have to do!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you tried ordering from the source Japan instead of the US?
i havent found a source in japan but im looking at a site called reship they give you a US address to ship to then they re ship it direct to your door. im a bit skeptical but hey its worth a try.

The slightest play in a pipe over the splines will wear the shaft. It could also side load the pump. All of it will be aggravated by having the lovejoy coupling ahead of the shaft.
good point but even the original splines have some play with the yoke attached, im not too worried about side loading on the pump as it was belt driven before and is rated for 150lbs of side load. but anyways i think im going to try to stick with spline connection rather then pipe and shear pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
greencruiser, that loader is sweet! going to make a nice work rig when done!

I hear you on it being dead in the forums too- Maybe the nice weather has some outside instead of sharing on the forum LOL. I did notice a lot of long time members seem to have not logged in in years too though. weird.

Me, I get to post lots of pictures and stuff because I have short work periods on stuff with long time in between due to work, and kids. I'm trying to rebuild 3 tractors at the same time, keep my house up, spend time with my family, auto repairs, work... it never ends.
Im excited to get it going even if it isnt the best loader platform one day I might move the loader to a better machine but for now I can use what I have around to make it better.

and your right it never ends! I have a bunch of tractors on the go a g14 bolens with tiller and 38mower un restored working machine, h16bolens with a front grader its rough but still works hard. even have an old 2wheel simplicty vc7 which needs a new engine but man was that thing fun to drive with a rigged up sulky trailer also have cultivator, moldboard plow and some discs for it. Oh and almost forgot about my gfs dixon ztr its not really a tractor but I keep it running good for her lawn mowing buisness.
 

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ooohh sweet can I borrow it?? jk. wish I had a lathe and milling machine to make some of those small custom pieces that either dont exist or are unobtanium! one day for now my torches, drill press and mig/ark welder will have to do!
Unfortunately, not mine. I did a friend a favour and picked it up for him at the shipping receiver's with my float. At 1250 lb, it was a max lift for the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Havent done much as far as fabricating goes, but I have scored old ransomes golf course mower with a kubota diesel 4cyl v1902. I havent been able to get it to run but theres a few of the components I will need for power steering and a bunch of other little bits like hoses, valves, hyd filter mounts, and lots of nice fittings. Everything is hydraulic on it. might end up building a hydraulic powered tractor one day with the parts if i can get it to run. It has a double ended ram for steering and a hyd steering valve that seems to be able to steer the wheels regardless of the pump running bonus! I removed the front bumper to salvage the metal some nice 1x2 1/8 wall box tube, that will come in handy for some of sub frame and bracing, also I purchased a lenght of 2x4 1/8 box for the two uprights and crossmember also some 1/4 x 4 flat bar for making brakets and stuff. Also has a rops made from 2.5 x 3/16 square tube mmmm more salvageable metal lol, I love recycling!

Im still on the fence about ordering the spline coupler for the pump drive setup now im leaning towards just turning the mower deck yoke down and welding it to a love joy seems like the simplest thing to do seeing as I have the piece already just need a lathe.

also did a bit of driveway work with the old h16 man what a work horse! kindof think it would be a good loader tractor but it is quite small, narrow and short I feel like it would be tipsy. also its been worked pretty hard already lol!

anyways a few pics of the ransomes and the h16
 

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on the spline coupler for the pump drive ? was it a dry fit
steel to steel will not play well with each other with out lube

john
 
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