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Discussion Starter #21
was that motor straight gased to do that to the crank? looks like it got hot. I have a a briggs 12 horse that's survived inhaling its carb throttle shaft screw 2x and still runs
I don't know if it was straight gassed. It definitely got very hot, there is all kinds of slop in the crank bearings and the connecting rod. The piston is scored but not that bad. The piston in the replacement motor is scored really bad. That Briggs must be one tough little engine.


i wouldn't worry much about the bags on these . these mowers are lousey baggers. I NEVER bag with mine. I I need to bag I use an ariens or snapper. that's interesting about the bags being diff, explains why the sp bag has a decal saying power bagger
I'll probably mulch with this most of the time, the bags are just nice to have around. It does explain the decal, I thought maybe the other was missing the decal but it apparently never had one. There are a couple NOS baggers on Craigslist right now. Might be nice to pick one up. The old grass that is caked inside of these bags triggers my allergies.
 

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Fletcher's isn't bad in my opinion. I liked it better when they had an online ordering option, though. I'd pick up in store and save like $10+ in shipping fees. Fletcher's also isn't far from Exton Mower so you can hit 2 shops in a trip if needed.
 

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if you’re headed out to fletchers and/or Exton you might as well check out that Suzuki toro out in the boneyard at Exton. Maybe it’ll be a good motor and you can sell the one you have on Craigslist as is and fix up the commercial for yourself. I don’t know when I will be up there again, don’t think it will be this weekend but I will pull it over and pull the exhaust to see the piston if you don’t make it up there first.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
my old boss who made us bag everything used to remove the bags from their frame and put them in the washing machine
I was actually considering doing exactly that but I don't want to clog up the washing machine either. I love to mow the grass but I hate the allergies.

if you’re headed out to fletchers and/or Exton you might as well check out that Suzuki toro out in the boneyard at Exton. Maybe it’ll be a good motor and you can sell the one you have on Craigslist as is and fix up the commercial for yourself. I don’t know when I will be up there again, don’t think it will be this weekend but I will pull it over and pull the exhaust to see the piston if you don’t make it up there first.
I didn't have any real plans to head out that way but it may be worth checking out. I'm waiting to hear back from Ben about the one he has but the one at Exton is my next choice. I've got basically everything except a good short block (I have five of these and only one is on a mower). I do want to fix the commercial up nice, not sure if I'm going to paint the deck, but I'll probably paint the handle, the shroud and the recoil and I think I'm going to get replacement decals for the shroud and recoil.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well I tinkered with these a little today and I think I may be on to something.

I took the engine off of the 16585 and put it aside, then took the engine with the scored piston and put in on the 16585. I brushed it off quickly and sprayed a shot of carb cleaner in the intake and it actually popped off. So I checked the compression and it is right at 90 psi. The Suzuki service manual says 93 psi and higher is normal. 3 psi is within the margin of error, so I think I'm going to be able to get two running mowers out of this.

After that I put the engine that was originally on the 16585 onto the commercial 22035 and swapped over the commercial specific pieces.

I haven't torqued anything to spec or cleaned anything yet, I'm just using a 1/4" impact to assemble and disassemble everything for now. Once I get the two mowers together and running I'll go back through them and torque things to spec and put thread locker and antiseize where it belongs. Right now it's just a big parts mix and match :ROFLMAO:

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Discussion Starter #27
I worked on both of these today and I was able to wire wheel the underside of the deck on the 22035 and replace some of the hardware. I also put a new fuel line and fuel filter on it and was able to get it running. I didn't have a blade on it because the blade adapter is FUBAR and needs replaced. It ran pretty good for not having a blade on it, though it was pretty tough to pull start without the extra rotational mass. But I did want to run it so I could test the transmission, and fortunately all 3 gears work.

I took all the wheels off and cleaned them really well and cleaned all of the nasty old grease out of the rear wheels.

Then I went to remove and clean the carb on the 16585 and when I went to remove the carb studs, one of them snapped off flush inside the block. So that really sucks. I'm not sure what to do with it at this point. I think I'm just going to throw an engine together for it and sell it cheap as parts/not running. I'm getting kind of fed up with it.

I need to order a new blade adapter for the commercial as well as a trailing shield and maybe a few other pieces. Someone rigged the handle end of the drive cable together. It's not really a hack fix but it isn't the correct cable end. So I may replace it. The bearings in the front wheels are pretty bad, the rears are okay. If anyone has a source for cheap(er) bearings let me know.

How much slop should be in the adjusters in the front of the commercials? I can see a couple of the holes are ovalled out pretty bad but even in the holes that aren't ovalled, there is some slop.

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If I recall correctly the drive cables for the com toros are pretty cheap. Like $15. As for height adjuster slop, my 22177 with the same deck has almost none. But your mower is much older than mine and looks to have a lot more hours on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'll probably pick up a drive cable then. The slop may actually be in the little rivet that locks the wheel into place. I'll have to take a closer look. It's not a huge deal because they are still level, but I know it's not supposed to be like that. May have to find a parts mower to because I know those adjusters are probably expensive.
 

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when you get the new blade adaptor use lots of anti seize on it and also the fasteners for the big round crank shaft protector. seen many with these parts seized on and makes maintance like a belt change tough.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
when you get the new blade adaptor use lots of anti seize on it and also the fasteners for the big round crank shaft protector. seen many with these parts seized on and makes maintance like a belt change tough.
I'm way ahead of you, I get pretty generous with the antiseize. I've already got the crankshaft protector bolts wire wheeled and slathered in antiseize, and I've got the drive pulley covered in antiseize too. I ordered the new blade adapter today as well as a new trailing shield.

I took advantage of the relatively warm weather today and pressure washed the whole thing. I usually don't like pressure washing around oil seals and bearings but this mower was just so filthy with old dry grease and grass. I kept the pressure directed away from the engine.
It's much cleaner now, especially underneath. You can see some of the hardware I replaced too.

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good job- mine don't stay clean for long s they get pretty serious commercial use. these do a job no other in the fleet does. climb very steep hills and ditches. certain yards a toro with real rubber tires and low first gear are mandatory. the 2 cycle so the engine dosnt starve for oil also mandatory
 

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Discussion Starter #33
good job- mine don't stay clean for long s they get pretty serious commercial use. these do a job no other in the fleet does. climb very steep hills and ditches. certain yards a toro with real rubber tires and low first gear are mandatory. the 2 cycle so the engine dosnt starve for oil also mandatory
Thanks. This one probably won't stay spotless but I'll try to keep it as nice as I can. Really I just find it easier to work on a clean piece of equipment. I should do the same thing to my Honda HRR216 before spring.

I've always been partial to rear drive and two strokes as my yard has some steep hills.

I went ahead and ordered a new drive cable too. I bought aftermarket, I think Oregon, or maybe it was Rotary. I've had good luck with both in the past. It was like $16 and change with free shipping. Here is the goofy end on the current cable-

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It's not really a "hack" fix, but it's not the right end, so I want I replaced.

I should have all these parts Friday so in the meantime I'll probably work on painting some pieces. I want to repaint the flywheel shroud and the recoil housing. Maybe the handle too.
 

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my turn for a new toro- found for 50$ on facebook. wanted this model for years but hard to find. 4 cycle Suzuki NON bbc. have a bbc one but hate it and left it out back to rust away. self prop not working but that's no prob as I have tons of toro parts. will play with it tomorrow . it does start and run but surges badly. this pic is not the mower -just one from the internet
2442290
 

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Discussion Starter #35
my turn for a new toro- found for 50$ on facebook. wanted this model for years but hard to find. 4 cycle Suzuki NON bbc. have a bbc one but hate it and left it out back to rust away. self prop not working but that's no prob as I have tons of toro parts. will play with it tomorrow . it does start and run but surges badly. this pic is not the mower -just one from the internet View attachment 2442290
Nice! I'm waiting on parts. I was going to paint today because it was supposed to be 50°F today but it didn't get anywhere close to that. So I stayed in.
 

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spent entire day trouble shooting the new toro Suzuki 4 stroke. the carb was dirty and it surged badly. the big issue is the trans is totally shot. no biggie as I have 2 spares. that will be next project . the carb- its a mikuni and finicky as usual . gave it a quick on the engine clean out. no go ran better but still surging and occasional back fire. removed carb and gas tank. cleaned out tank and striped the mikuni down and into the harbor freight ultra sonic cleaner . reassemble and installed . and after a low speed jet adjustment -she runs perfect-like a swiss watch
 

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Discussion Starter #37
spent entire day trouble shooting the new toro Suzuki 4 stroke. the carb was dirty and it surged badly. the big issue is the trans is totally shot. no biggie as I have 2 spares. that will be next project . the carb- its a mikuni and finicky as usual . gave it a quick on the engine clean out. no go ran better but still surging and occasional back fire. removed carb and gas tank. cleaned out tank and striped the mikuni down and into the harbor freight ultra sonic cleaner . reassemble and installed . and after a low speed jet adjustment -she runs perfect-like a swiss watch
Nice deal! Having spare parts around pays off!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I worked on my 22035 for a little bit today. I cleaned, sharpened and painted the blade. It is a Toro blade, I'd be surprised if it's the original as it's in pretty good shape.

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The plastic caps on the front height adjusters were broken or missing so I took two off of my 16585 and swapped them over.

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I also removed the remains of the old trailing shield. And unfortunately while trying to get the wire out, I broke part of the cast aluminum. Fortunately I didn't break the whole corner off, only part of it. Since I don't have the equipment to weld aluminum, I'll either take it down to my buddy who runs a welding shop, or if he is too busy I'll just use some JB Steelstik to reform it.

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And my parts I ordered came a day early. So I've got my blade adapter, the new drive cable and the new trailing shield. I was able to salvage the key square and the crank spacer from the old blade adapter so now I've just got to assemble. Then on to the next thing that needs fixed!

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Discussion Starter #39
Dropped by my welding buddy's shop today to see if he could weld up that deck and he said he could but couldn't get to it today. He looks really busy so I'm just going to JB Steelstik it. It worked great on my Cub Cadet deck spindles. This isn't a high stress area and it's not even completely broken so I think it'll be fine. I also picked up an 1/8" steel rod to replace the old one. It's a little bit thinner but I think it'll work fine. 3/16" was a little too big. 5/32" is probably the right size but good luck finding it at a hardware store.

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Discussion Starter #40
Today I installed the whole blade and adapter assembly and replaced the drive cable. I started it up, adjusted the drive cable and got a video of it running. It runs great now that there is a blade on it.

 
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