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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spent the majority of the afternoon working on this little contraption. 3/4" of steel is bending before the flywheel will come off. Am I doing something wrong? The idea being that when I loosed the flywheel nut it applies upward pressure on the bolts which are screwed into the pre-tapped flywheel.

ARGHHHH :banghead3
 

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For rusted-on applications like this, slow-steady force is not the answer. shock / vibration is what you want. Break the rust. Then pull it, using your contraption
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For rusted-on applications like this, slow-steady force is not the answer. shock / vibration is what you want. Break the rust. Then pull it, using your contraption
Any suggestions on how to break the rust? I've tried hammering, prying, heating. I'm fresh out of ideas...
 

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If you have an air hammer try buzzing it in opposing spots on the flywheel, with pressure on it from your puller.

If no air hammer then try smacking it in a criss cross pattern, with pressure on from the puller.

But, usually a healthy whack to the center bolt will do the trick.

Good luck with it.
 

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If you have an air hammer try buzzing it in opposing spots on the flywheel, with pressure on it from your puller.

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+1 to that. You'll want to minimize blunt-force to the crankshaft if you want to salvage that engine. I know air hammers / air chisels with a blunt tip have freed rusted on brake rotors and drums with ease for me.

Joel
 

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put a couple pry bars behind it have some one hold pressure then wack the center with a hammer or get a puller that bolts in then the center bolt of the puller you tighten with an impact
 

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When you have pressure on the flywheel. RAP! straight down ( In your case it looks like it may be "In") on top of the puller on top of the crank shaft. Not as hard as you can hit it but a good strong rap
 

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Have you tried PB Blaster? With your puller attached, saturate the area with it and tap as you go, allowing the PB Blaster to penetrate the rust. You might have to let it set overnight and if so, saturate it again before you call it a day.
I'd suggest liquid nitrogen, but, I'm pretty sure it's not readily available.
Have you tried a small engine shop?

Bob
 

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I would suggest getting the right puller. The simple fact that is bending shows that it's not what you want for the job. You need "Harmonic Balance Puller" to remove that stuck flywheel. Sometimes your method will work, but this tool will remove that before you break something. I think part of the problem is that it's very hard to pull it straight with that set up. You load one side and then the other. Tapered shafts don't pull well side to side, they like to come straight off.

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-AST-7846-Harmonic-Balancer/dp/B000WZSAG4




PS, I would suggest not hitting it too hard, there is a chance you can knock a magnet off the inside of the flywheel. You should be able to reattach it, but I am not a fan of putting stress (IE a puller, loaded with tension) and hitting cast iron. That's a fast way to break cast iron. :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you have an air hammer try buzzing it in opposing spots on the flywheel, with pressure on it from your puller.

If no air hammer then try smacking it in a criss cross pattern, with pressure on from the puller.

But, usually a healthy whack to the center bolt will do the trick.

Good luck with it.
What are you referring to me hitting when you say a "criss cross pattern"?
I have done light taps on the center bolt and even smashed the ___ out of it and it hasn't budged.
 

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Have you tried PB Blaster? With your puller attached, saturate the area with it and tap as you go, allowing the PB Blaster to penetrate the rust. You might have to let it set overnight and if so, saturate it again before you call it a day.
I second the PB Blaster recommendation. Apply liberally, tap the area, apply some more. Later, apply some more. may take a few applications and some time. It hurts to wait when you need it done today, but it's better than damaging parts and having to start from scratch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Harbor Freight, NAPA, Autozone, Pep Boys, pretty much any brand name tool or automotive store!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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j-willard, Firefyter provided the link to Amazon.
It looks like a nice kit for $36.25, I think I'm ordering one just in case...

A tool not at hand isn't very helpful, that's why they make toolboxes.
Randy
 

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I mean hit one side of the face of the flywheel near the outer edge, then go across from that and do the same, kinda like tightening lug nuts on a wheel.

I am not suggesting a very hard hit, just a good tap. You are trying to find any play in the flywheel to crank connection and get it to shift (shear) the rust bonding them together.

A good penetrating oil like PB is always a good idea too.

Vinegar will dissolve rust as well, if you soak parts in it.
 

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True, that can help... but the main problem is he has a very stuck flywheel and the wrong tool for the job. Many flywheels have been broken off while trying to use the wrong tool and method for removal. The first hit to try to break the bond would be on the center shaft of the puller. This will direct the shock right to the hardened steel crankshaft and most of the time will shock the bond and let it loose. I am not a fan of hitting cast iron, any weak spots in the casting can be found easy with the right tap of a hammer. :fing20:

PB Blaster is also a very good idea to let it soak.:fing32:
 
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