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Discussion Starter #1
I bought the machine late Fall and it pretty much went straight to work clearing snow after adding blade extensions and replacing the wear bar. Its been running warm mowing in the warmer weather so I decided it was time to get some maintenance done. Changing the oil was pretty straightforward but I am a little embarrassed to say how long I spent looking for the radiator petcock where the manual said and showed it on the RH side of the machine. Mine was on the left. Air filters were pretty grungy so did those too. Still have the transaxle and the mower gearbox to do this weekend. Anyway, a couple ?s:

I'm pretty good about keeping the machine clean along with the side screens but I was surprised how much crap there was in the radiator compartment. Is this normal and something that just needs to be done more often than the manual says or is it possible that I am just the first one to do it?

Does the temp gauge look right for warmed up but just at a high idle with no load on it and about 70 degrees out? Where should I expect it if its hot and I've been mowing for a while?

The manual never says anything about needing to change the MFWD oil only keeping it topped off? Is this right or did I miss something?

The dealer gave me SD Polyurea Grease. Is this appropriate for all points on the machine and mower?

The deck belt on the mower is black but the one I got from the dealer is white. I looked up the part number M163991 and it appears right. Did they change materials at some point or maybe the PO just used another belt? There is no need to change it right now just curious.

Are there any service frequencies in the manual you think are too long or any items that should be on the list that aren't?

Thanks!
 

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I'm not at all familiar with the X595, but a few comments on any tractor:

Before you start it, do a walk around for tires (low on air), any liquid level site gauges, spots on the floor, debris in cooling screens (do you have a belly screen?). Then open hood, check engine oil level, coolant level & radiator fins, signs of leaks. These are just quick things to look at, costs you nothing but time, and can save you MUCH frustration and $$$ in the future!

Finally, start tractor and look around for any leaks. If none, have fun.

I wouldn't worry about belt color, but I WOULD use JD belts. They're a few $$ more but they're slightly different than other "off the shelf belts"...different angle.

Hmm, I see you've got quite a herd so I may be preaching to the choir! Bob
 

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The temp gauge is not a real good indicator of temperature. The movement of the need is not linear. I have no idea what the range is but it is meant to please and appease end users.

For example, a fully warmed engine (180-190f) may only move the needle 15% of the way, while 240f moves the needle 50% and 280f moves to 90% or red zone.
 

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The temp gauge is not a real good indicator of temperature. The movement of the need is not linear. I have no idea what the range is but it is meant to please and appease end users.

For example, a fully warmed engine (180-190f) may only move the needle 15% of the way, while 240f moves the needle 50% and 280f moves to 90% or red zone.
these gauges are just like the ones in your car with no numbers, useless
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The temp gauge is not a real good indicator of temperature. The movement of the need is not linear. I have no idea what the range is but it is meant to please and appease end users.

For example, a fully warmed engine (180-190f) may only move the needle 15% of the way, while 240f moves the needle 50% and 280f moves to 90% or red zone.
The 4410 is the same way. Just looking for general guidance on where the yo check radiator compartment point is vs its a hot day and its just running warmer than usual. Hopefully, the flush/new coolant/cleanout/oil change makes it a non issue. It is running much lower warmed up at idle now than it was but I havent put a load on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hmm, I see you've got quite a herd so I may be preaching to the choir! Bob
No worries Bob, I often miss choir practice.
 

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I am not sure if this applies to the X595 or not but on my X485 there is an oil cooler between the radiator and the removable cleanout screen that is found after removing the side screens. This smaller oil cooler is supported with the same style clips that hold on the side screens that you can undo and move that to clean between the cooler and the radiator. If you had grass against your radiator you likely have grass between the cooler and the radiator if the cooler is there. I wasn't able to see it on the new John Deere parts page.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am not sure if this applies to the X595 or not but on my X485 there is an oil cooler between the radiator and the removable cleanout screen that is found after removing the side screens. This smaller oil cooler is supported with the same style clips that hold on the side screens that you can undo and move that to clean between the cooler and the radiator. If you had grass against your radiator you likely have grass between the cooler and the radiator if the cooler is there. I wasn't able to see it on the new John Deere parts page.
Yep, it was caked in there pretty good. Thats what kind of makes me think I am the first to go after that area. Could have grown potatoes in the bottom of the radiator compartment. It was well beyond blowing out so I was very careful with my little electric power washer on its lightest setting. They dont make it easy to clean out and all the electrical stuff in the direct vicinity just ups the ante.
 

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The radiator on my X748 gets a blow out just about every or every other mow... and if the machine stays outside or cuts wet grass it needs to be done after the mow. If you wait a couple months the grass just builds up at the base of the radiator behind the dash.

The front axle oil I just change when I change the transaxle fluid.

I've always thought the oil change interval was a bit long... but a lot of people call me crazy.... I change the oil in my X748 every 50-60 hrs but that is 5-6 months most of the time and oil is cheap and it gives me a reason to go through the whole machine. Lift the hood, inspect everything, grease it all while the oil it draining, inspect the tie rod, check the hubs on the front axle, look for any leaks, cracked lines, loose wires etc etc. 25 mins and the machine has a full look over and fresh oil. If I am really in a hurry I can do it in about 12 mins. :ROF

Polyurea grease is fine for most components. I cannot remember off the top of my head but you might want to check for high speed bearings, like those on the deck. Personally, I use a moly-grease on the steering linkages... creates a nice buttery feel to the steering. :) For the deck spindles I use Lucas HD Green Grease... I just really like the stuff and I have had good luck with it.
 

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AKA Moses Lawnagan
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I'm pretty good about keeping the machine clean along with the side screens but I was surprised how much crap there was in the radiator compartment. Is this normal and something that just needs to be done more often than the manual says or is it possible that I am just the first one to do it?
The side screens are more forgiving than the one directly in front of the radiator. The side screens can get really nasty and you won't notice the engine temp rise much, but if the one in front of the radiator clogs up, you'll see your temp gauge rise, and the tranny will run hotter, too. Whenever I remove the side screens to clean them, I always check the radiator screen too. I frequently wipe the side screens with my hands while mowing, but thoroughly clean them whenever I shut down, or when I see my temp gauge higher than usual. When you clean the radiator and oil cooler fins, blow from the fan side towards the rear of the tractor, since most of the junk gets stuck on the back side. I sometimes use a water hose and spray head and it does a good job as well.

Does the temp gauge look right for warmed up but just at a high idle with no load on it and about 70 degrees out? Where should I expect it if its hot and I've been mowing for a while?
My gauge usually runs in the first third of the green area until outside temps get into the upper 80's, then it runs in the middle third. If it's in the low to mid 90's, it may run in the last third just before the red zone. Up to a point, a diesel's efficiency increases as the engine heats up. I wouldn't worry about running it in the middle third of the gauge most of the time, but once you get into the last third, slow down a bit, or take breaks.

The manual never says anything about needing to change the MFWD oil only keeping it topped off? Is this right or did I miss something?
I have almost 1500 hours on my X748, and the front axle lube (mine is MFWD) looks new, almost. Same goes for my deck's gearbox. I just keep the levels at the correct place. On the gearbox, remove the side plug and fill until it starts running out the hole, then replace the plug (with the deck in operating position).

The dealer gave me SD Polyurea Grease. Is this appropriate for all points on the machine and mower?
Yes, wherever there is a grease zerk. I also use it on the balls of my 3-point hitch.

The deck belt on the mower is black but the one I got from the dealer is white. I looked up the part number M163991 and it appears right. Did they change materials at some point or maybe the PO just used another belt? There is no need to change it right now just curious.
My new one is the same way (white, where the previous ones were black). It also had a different part number, but otherwise it's identical. I think it 's a matter of where they source the belts.

Are there any service frequencies in the manual you think are too long or any items that should be on the list that aren't?
If you maintain the tractor by the manual, you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks gents...and mrbeef cant say it surprises me that you have an individual grease preference for nearly every point on the machine.
 

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As the others said,mine to runs in the first third of the green in the temp gauge. I you have the 62c deck get the anti blowout kit for it, it'll save grass being blown out on top of the deck and then getting sucked up in the rad. I clean my screens maybe once a month instead of every mow. They're 2 metal pieces that mount on the front lop underneath.
IMG_1690.jpg

IMG_1689.jpg
 

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I am not sure if this applies to the X595 or not but on my X485 there is an oil cooler between the radiator and the removable cleanout screen that is found after removing the side screens. This smaller oil cooler is supported with the same style clips that hold on the side screens that you can undo and move that to clean between the cooler and the radiator. If you had grass against your radiator you likely have grass between the cooler and the radiator if the cooler is there. I wasn't able to see it on the new John Deere parts page.
I pull the screens pretty much daily and blow out the radiator with compressed air. This is the one thing about the 485 (other than not having split brakes. :)) that I don't like. That design is horrid. It clogs up all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As the others said,mine to runs in the first third of the green in the temp gauge. I you have the 62c deck get the anti blowout kit for it, it'll save grass being blown out on top of the deck and then getting sucked up in the rad. I clean my screens maybe once a month instead of every mow. They're 2 metal pieces that mount on the front lop underneath.
Thanks for the tip on the kit mine doesn't have it. Is there any downside to it?
 

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