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I'm getting ready to remove the fender pan to do some wiring/mods and am wondering if anyone here has done this before.

I figured out the obvious stuff: ROPS and seat off, bolts at the deck, and most likely remove the 3PTH drop rate knob and mower height adjuster.

I do have a couple questions that leave me scratching my head though. How do I remove the plastic handles on the controls? These things are still on there TIGHT after 4 years (which actually makes me quite happy) and don't want to give at all when I pull and twist on them. The other thing that has me baffled is how the rear of the pan is attached. It sorta seems like it is somewhere above the fuel tank near the rear of the grab handles, but I tried to get my inspection cam up there and really couldn't see much of anything.

IF anybody has done this and happened to take pictures, I'd really appreciate seeing them!
 

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Nope, nobody has.

You have to remove the ROPS and the dash tower. W-a-a-y too much work for my liking.

I had to remove the screens on the dash tower when I pulled my engine last year. I looked really hard to find an easier way to do it when I put it back together. Putting those screens back in was an exercise that I have no interest in repeating.
 

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****, I thought the pan was 2 pieces...I somehow will have to get to the rate of lower valve to pull it out and put a new one in or fix the old....previous owner broke the screw that comes out of it
 

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I took mine at least loose a few months back to change out the hydro fan. I think two years ago I took it loose the first time to install the block for the loader. I don't recall it being too bad, but then again I don't really recall taking the handles off either. I would think that a little bit of heat might be the trick. Treadle pedal, hydraulic drop adjustment knob, etc in the front was pretty much all I had to remove to do what I needed to do.
 

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good to know...will tackle that over winter. thanks! Kind of dumb design for massey, put the control right where you heal will hit it a lot and gave it no extra support
 

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Mavrik take some pictures and keep us posted on the handles . I have to do the same thing to my 2600 this winter . My dealer suggested a heat gun to heat things up . Good luck .
 

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DOH!:duh: I forgot to come back and mark this SOLVED. It wasn't all that difficult once I removed the ROPs and figured out a technique for the handles, the rest was pretty obvious. I remember I even took pictures, but they aren't on the card that is in the camera now. I'll be back after I find it so I can post up the cool part of the project too.
 

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So Digginit what was the technique you used to remove the handles ? I need to change my 3PH drop rate knob. Would like to get it done this winter when I have time and not using the tractor much . Thanks .
 

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Re: GC2410 fender pan removal? SOLVED

OK OK, I didn't take nearly as many pics as I thought, but at least I got the handle removal. I can't believe I didn't even get one with it naked. :duh:

For completeness' sake, I'll make a text list of all that needs to be done for removal, mostly a just checklist as the items are pretty easy to figure out. The order you do them doesn't much matter. It has been >6 months since I did this and I'm just going from memory sitting here at my desk, so if I forgot something please add it.

1) Remove the seat, I took off the whole mechanism (it's only 4 bolts), but you might get away with just pulling the hinge pin if you are in a hurry.

2) Remove the knob from the mower height adjuster (unscrews after you loosen the jam nut). I also recall removing the indicator scale as well.

3) Remove the 3PTH drop rate knob, if memory serves, it is held on by a nut deep down in the center.

4) Unplug the taillights and pull the wires up and out. Undo the line from the bendover clips next to the ROPS on each side.

5) Remove the ROPS.

6) Remove the control handles:

This is the height at which they sit:

DSCN2529.JPG

The handles are not glued, but there is a fair bit of adhesion of the handle to the tang as you can see by the residue here:

DSCN2533.JPG

And finally we get to the secret! Grab the handles with channel-locks at about the height shown(top of the tang) and twist back and forth *somewhat* forcefully while also pulling upward. I used many thicknesses of rags to avoid damaging the handles when I did this for real.

DSCN2530.JPG DSCN2531.JPG

Some came off after 10-15 seconds, but others put up more of a fight and took substantially longer to break free, but they are all the same configuration and will come off eventually. You might have to move the channel-locks progressively lower if you get a really stubborn one.

7) Remove the 4 bolts that attach the fender and floor pans.

8) Finagle it free of the adjusters and control levers.

9) Crack open your accomplishment beer.
 

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seat pan removed and rate of drop changed....sorry a month later but been a **** month. Then after doing that the 3-point would still not work, the wrong hyrdro line was capped by the dealer so the return just dumped back into the pump instead of going thru the 3-point valve...figured that out and all set. Biggest PITA was getting the seat pan out from under the front pan
 

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Did you change the whole 3Pt rate of drop valve?Was it difficult?I have to change mine,knob stem broke off where the valve stem comes out of the 3Pt control housing.I could try to weld the valve stem back on but would melt the stem seal and I think an o-ring.
 

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I have to do this, hydraulic line got wrap around fan, my mistake I had to replace the line because it got pinched between the 3pt and backhoe attachment bracket. Uggh
 
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