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A Proud MF'er
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Well, the "get-the-tractor" adventure is behind me. Around 3000km (1800mi) and all worth it. I could have used a shipper, but then would not have had the chance to find the handful of items not up to snuff, and the purchase discount I negotiated that essentially paid for the trip expenses.

The first thing was the charging light was on in the dash display. That was solved with a new alternator ($500 @ dealer, $100 online, $260 local parts store..) and then, a bit of backhoe work, only to bring out a shudder in the machine during any operation. Dismounted the backhoe and noticed no hydro oil visible in the window. Also, fuel filter looked like mud (literally) and the air filter was very dark and sooty. OK, time for a new-to-me maintenance round (at 400 hrs).

Regional dealer had reasonable pricing on the filters and some Kubota UDT hydro oil. Did the filters, changed out the oil...

I should mention, by way of asking, that when I discovered the lack of hydro oil showing in the window, I used some of the "generic" hydro oil that came with the machine to bring the level up to the window. I needed to add a couple of liters (2-3) and then saw the oil appear in the window. When I did the refresh for all the filters/fluids, I added the manual-specified 11 liters to the transmission and once again, no oil showing in the window! Last time, I did not know how much was in the transmission, so added until I saw the level show. This time, I know I added the specified 11 liters and it's not showing.

The question for experienced owners: How much more should I consider adding to get it to show in the window? This oil (unlike the generic fluid) is very light in color. I have already added one extra liter and nothing in the window yet.

The machine is running far better after the service. I would like to get the fluid level in the transmission correct before re-mounting the backhoe, so any guidance on this issue is much appreciated. I'm excited to begin working the machine - and getting a snowblower before winter - but want to make sure I'm not hurting my investment before I get started.

Pic is of the machine elevated to get my oil catch container under the machine and make being under it more workable...

PS: I know this is off topic for this thread, but an 8-year-old thread has little claim to purity...:tango_face_devil:
 

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Well, the "get-the-tractor" adventure is behind me. Around 3000km (1800mi) and all worth it. I could have used a shipper, but then would not have had the chance to find the handful of items not up to snuff, and the purchase discount I negotiated that essentially paid for the trip expenses.



The first thing was the charging light was on in the dash display. That was solved with a new alternator ($500 @ dealer, $100 online, $260 local parts store..) and then, a bit of backhoe work, only to bring out a shudder in the machine during any operation. Dismounted the backhoe and noticed no hydro oil visible in the window. Also, fuel filter looked like mud (literally) and the air filter was very dark and sooty. OK, time for a new-to-me maintenance round (at 400 hrs).



Regional dealer had reasonable pricing on the filters and some Kubota UDT hydro oil. Did the filters, changed out the oil...



I should mention, by way of asking, that when I discovered the lack of hydro oil showing in the window, I used some of the "generic" hydro oil that came with the machine to bring the level up to the window. I needed to add a couple of liters (2-3) and then saw the oil appear in the window. When I did the refresh for all the filters/fluids, I added the manual-specified 11 liters to the transmission and once again, no oil showing in the window! Last time, I did not know how much was in the transmission, so added until I saw the level show. This time, I know I added the specified 11 liters and it's not showing.



The question for experienced owners: How much more should I consider adding to get it to show in the window? This oil (unlike the generic fluid) is very light in color. I have already added one extra liter and nothing in the window yet.



The machine is running far better after the service. I would like to get the fluid level in the transmission correct before re-mounting the backhoe, so any guidance on this issue is much appreciated. I'm excited to begin working the machine - and getting a snowblower before winter - but want to make sure I'm not hurting my investment before I get started.



Pic is of the machine elevated to get my oil catch container under the machine and make being under it more workable...



PS: I know this is off topic for this thread, but an 8-year-old thread has little claim to purity...:tango_face_devil:
I honestly don't even count/measure fluid. I make sure that the loader/attachments are in proper place, the tractor is on a level surface and fill until fluids present themselves in the sight glass as specified. The Kubota udt or permatran 821xl are both very light colored fluids so watch very carefully to see it in the sight.

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I know that JD has a red dye, I think you could find something on Amazon. It works great I only use part of the bottle and it makes it easy to see the level of fluid.

Doug

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Use a bent piece of wire to sound for the fluid level through the fill port to give you an idea of where the level is in relation to the sight glass. It's easy to miss the lighter coloured fluid in the sight glass if it gets overfilled. There is not that much change in colour in the sight glass. The glass only works well if the fluid level is showing, not if it's higher or lower.

I once had to drain 3 quarts from mine. With an operational leak, the amount of fluid lost is unknown. I got suspicious while pouring the second 5 liter jug into the hydro and decided to do a sounding for the actual level. I drained the excess by removing the return line from the loader valve and installing one of my spare loader hoses and placing the end into the empty jug. The jugs that I use have a clear line on the back edge to tell how much fluid is present. Started the engine and ran at low idle while the return flow ran into the jug. I shut off the engine and sounded the fluid level with the makeshift dipstick until the level showed in the sight glass.

I'm not a fan of sight gauges on mobile equipment that has a multitude of cylinders. The only time it is accurate is when the cylinders are all retracted and the tractor is on level ground. When the cylinders are all extended on our loaders, the fluid level in the hydro is down a quart and out of the sight glass range. It's down even more when using the back hoe at some points. and the sight glass is not visible with the hoe installed.

These tractors need a dipstick for the hydro fluid, and a fill port for the hydro that is more accessible. The fill port on my 2310 is a real pain to use when the temperature is -20°.
 

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Professional Homeowner
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What you could do is run the tractor and have an assistant slowly raise and dump the loader, while you watch the sight glass. If you have pretty close to the correct amount of fluid in there, you’ll see the level in the glass as the loader raises and dumps if it’s just a little too full. When the level is proper (cylinders retracted and machine level), you might be surprised how far the level drops below the sight glass.

I’ve overfilled my GC2300 by not much, and the fluid found its way out the breather without much consequence.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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78 Posts
So, I tried both the "sounding" with the wire, (not clear I got to the sump, through twists and turns..) and the 'assistant' moving the FEL (no change in the window..) and now I'm thinking that I am over full with 12.5L in the transmission. The window is looking a little 'golden' versus the grey/silver tone of the pre-filled state.

Next step would be to drain a couple of liters into a clean container and see if I can get the right amount. Like TUDOR said: this thing needs a dipstick for the tranny.

If I am a liter (and a half..) over, do I risk hurting anything?
 

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You won't actually hurt anything. It will just cause a little work to clean up the fluid spillage out of the breather.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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78 Posts
So, in the end (of this learning curve..) there was about 25% more hydro fluid in the sump than required. My friendly local small engine mechanic was crystal clear when he heard how much I had in it: Too much!

The prospect of opening a very low drain plug with a small catch basin was an unknown for me, but by using the breather cap tightness as a vacumn regulator, I was able to take out my goal of 2-1/2 liters with virtually no mess. After setting the amount I would remove, my plan was to begin adding it back to get to the right level. I was focused on getting the right amount out and getting the drain plug back in with a minimum of mess. I was not looking at the fill window, but when the drain plug was nice and tight, I looked at the sight glass...

The amount is 10 liters. Good to know. Thanks for the advice.
 

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I once had to drain 3 quarts from mine. With an operational leak, the amount of fluid lost is unknown. I got suspicious while pouring the second 5 liter jug into the hydro and decided to do a sounding for the actual level. I drained the excess by removing the return line from the loader valve and installing one of my spare loader hoses and placing the end into the empty jug. The jugs that I use have a clear line on the back edge to tell how much fluid is present. Started the engine and ran at low idle while the return flow ran into the jug. I shut off the engine and sounded the fluid level with the makeshift dipstick until the level showed in the sight glass.
No muss, no fuss, no crawling around on the floor. . . and then trying to stand up with a bad back.

There are 12 hoses on a loader. If you don't have a spare in inventory, borrow one. I don't get down on the floor if there is an alternative, and standing beside the loader while using wrenches at waist height is about as easy an alternative as you can get.

At idle the flow from the return port is about 2 gpm or a liter every 7-8 seconds.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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78 Posts
Heh, as if to say: Not so fast... Now I have the main Hydro drain plug leaking. Although the manual suggests, less than clearly, that sealant be applied to drain plugs, mine had an "o" ring which looked good so I reinstalled it without sealant. Now, after opening it yet again, the lack of sealant is definitely an issue.

Hopefully, I can open it, yet again, and use the tight breather cap to limit the amount draining while I wipe the threads of the plug, apply sealant and put it back into a hole that's bleeding hydro oil.

I'm not sure if sealant will do its job in that circumstance, or if I need to drain it completely.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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78 Posts
I was looking back on this thread, and to follow up, the hydro fluid leaks were just insufficiently tightened main drain and suction filter nuts.

Now that I have had time to spruce up and sell my Bolens HT-20 for decent money, I can look at buying the 2360 snowblower (wasn't this thread about that at some point..?)

I have been scanning the web for any signs of a used one, but to no avail. Even looking at orange ones, but even the used price for them is more than the new price of the 2360. So I have called a second dealer, farther away, and one with accessible product knowledge, and asked for a blower-w/o-quick-hitch price, and even what they would offer for a trade in on the 2330 rotary broom I will never need/use. I'm hoping it will give me an idea of how to approach my regional dealer on a final deal for the blower. Weird to be thinking snowblower with these temps - well, out here we've had a wet, cool summer so far, but that is changing as of today...

So who knows, maybe this thread can get back on its snowy track.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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Well, time flies.. Just this morning the new 2360 arrived in the driveway, having been shipped from the next province over, for an almost 15% discount. I cleaned, greased and painted the Quick-hitch/sub-frame a month ago and can now get to putting this all together for the first time. Weather has been wonderfully mild for a few weeks, but snow could now begin any day, purely by the calendar.

I've put a total of 35 hours on the 2410 since summer started and the amount of work done in that machine time is amazing. Over 50 yards of numerous kinds of material placed, landscapes changed, materials relocated, driveways graded, fall cleanup, and it's just getting started. Now to switch into winter mode...
 

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A Proud MF'er
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Well, here is the latest pic. A brand-new, pre-use MF2360.

Like everything else, I need to get past a safety switch issue to get it all running smooth, but there it is, almost ready to defeat the snow.

I say almost because the manual rotator-rod mount seems to have no place to attach. I thought it would be on the FEL bracket arm, but I can only find one possible angle where the mount would work, but no holes exist at that spot.

I will get dealer support in the morning, and hopefully that will supply a solution. I saw that years back someone in this thread was saying the same thing about the rotation rod mount. I don't think the solution was ever mentioned.

If anyone has an idea, let me know.
 

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Nice nice

That should tame some white stuff!
 

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Bolt a stand-off for the rod to the post. Use the hole for the pin that attaches the loader.

If you use a 1/2" bolt and a big heavy washer, you can apply enough torque that the stand-off won't turn on you since it only serves to guide the rod and should not be subject to any great force.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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I'm working on getting dealer support. In the end it will probably be they included the wrong bracket, and hopefully there is a good match. But I could also see making a transition bracket, likely using the existing two holes in the FEL mount, to get me to a good place for the bracket supplied. The reason to go OEM should be a well-designed fit. I'll hold out for that if possible.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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And so it was... They included the wrong bracket and fortunately had the right one on hand, couriered to me within two days. All is ready, no snow yet. If my preparations mean my area gets no snow, so be it..
 

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Not many posts recently on the GC’s. Everybody must be out working with them.

I thought if I want to see more photos of other tractors I’d better stir the pot a little and put up some pictures of my own. Here are some of my Massey Ferguson 2360 Snow Blower, its mounting bracket and the PTO shaft for everyone’s viewing pleasure.

The blower is 50 inches wide and mine has an electronic chute rotator. I have been able to survive without the electronic chute deflector so far. Seeing as the price for the one from Massey is hundreds of dollars I’ll either continue to do without or kludge together a home-brew version. There have been some nice homemade designs floating around to copy from.

The mounting bracket for the blower is pretty straight forward. It hangs over the front of the frame and is tightened/loosened at a single point. It is heavy but manageable to lift off and on. I would not want to carry it any distance however. It has a single hydraulic cylinder that is attached to the loader joystick. Depending on your preference you can attach it so you can raise/lower it with an up/down motion or side to side motion of the joystick.

The chute rotator has a little wire harness that plugs in a runs back to a switch mounted under the dash.

The blower itself slides over and onto the mounting bracket as pictured. It is then fastened with a retaining pin. At the same time that is happening the drive shaft need to be inserted into the blower. Massey has a little flip up bracket that holds the coupler on the blower in place but unless you are on a flat surface with everything perfectly aligned it takes a little futzing. The mounting bracket is universal and will also work for the plow blade and rotary broom made by Massey.

The Blower is driven from the Mid-PTO that also drives the mid-mount mower deck. There is a drive shaft that is installed from the Mid-PTO up to the backside of the mounting bracket. The drive shaft has a coupler that firmly attaches to the Mid-PTO but where it attaches to the blower bracket it has a sliding coupler (Anyone know the proper name for that?)

Overall the install is very straight forward.

I have used the snow blower for 2 seasons now and it has performed like a champ. It has cut down the amount of time I need to be outside clearing the driveway considerably. Not to mention that since it has a hydraulic lift I do not come in with a sore arm like I did after using the manual lift on the old Simplicity. I broke one shear bolt last year during the clean out from the 24” snowpocolypse. I just pushed it a little too fast in the deep snow. I realized it was broken when the snow started piling up on one side of the blower as there are two augers and each has a shear bolt. Fortunately I had thought ahead for once and the previous fall I had ordered 4 auger shear bolts and 2 shear bolts for the second stage impeller. It took more time to get the tractor to the garage then it did to install the new bolt. Nice to have a repair go smoothly for once.

I will be getting it out of storage soon and mounting it as soon as the grass quits for the season.

hello I have a gc2410 and I would like to put a blower before do you have a link or I could get the kit with blower
 

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hello I have a gc2410 and I would like to put a blower before do you have a link or I could get the kit with blower
It's 2 different components. There's a mounting bracket subframe system that attaches to the the front of the tractor that handles lifting and attachment of the blower (or plow blade, etc) and then the blower itself. You can try and locate it used or order both through an certified AGCO dealer.

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A Proud MF'er
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MF sells, as mentioned, two parts for the snowblower to work. The "quick-hitch/subframe" which brings the mid-PTO power to the front of the machine, and then you can get three attachments for that quick-hitch unit: MF2360 Snowblower, 2330 Rotary Broom and a snowplow blade. The attachments are about $3-4K new and the quick-hitch/subframe between $1500-2000 depending on the country and dealer. My experience, already having the QH/SF and the Rotary Broom, was that there were no used snowblowers anywhere near me, so I had to buy new.

The price was painful, but I'm loving the snowblower. Particularly after over 3 feet of snow in the past 2 weeks.
 
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