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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a clean GC2310 TLB (287 hours) recently and am overall very pleased especially at the general speed of the hydraulics.
However I have this intermittent backhoe, dead in the water problem. I never know whether it will work or not when I start the machine. When it works I can use it for 3 or 4 hours until I am tired. In other words, when it works, it keeps working. The front loader always works perfectly but you never know about the backhoe. When it is dead, I can still lower stabilizers (gravity?) and the boom will move left but that is all it will do. I have no leaks anywhere and since the machine is new to me, I changed all fluids and filters. The hydraulic level is mid-sight glass. I have good couplers tightly attached and have no pinched hoses.
I must emphasize that the problem, while intermittent, existed before and still exists after I changed filter and fluids.
If it is air in the system why does it not self-purge and if it does not, how do I manually purge it?
Also I notice that the previous owner has a jumper on the wire leads to the seat switch. I would like to know what the seat safety switch controls on this. I am guessing – starting?
I would greatly appreciate any input from anyone that has walked this mile.
 

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curiousbob

I do not know the exact answer to your problem; have you talked with a dealer yet? The only problem I have had with my BH (twice dead in the water) is inadvertently hitting the hydro connection lines with my foot climbing on and off resulting in breaking the connection. You cannot look and tell that it is broken; it is only after you cut the machine off and relieve the pressure to the hoses, completely unhook the connection, then reseat them does it work perfectly again. Good luck and :MTF_wel2: We are glad to have you. There are many friendly and knowledgeable folks here at MTF, so enjoy all the different forums. Click on ”Active Topics” near the top left of the page for all the latest activity. You can also register with other members from your state by clicking here:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Ya-Ya but I am thinking that what you accomplished by opening and reseating the connectors, was burping the line of a small amount of air. I have tried this a couple of times and went so far as to test the spring loaded 'balls' in the bottom of each coupling to insure they were not stuck. Yes, I talked to one dealer and his mechanic and they are both still scratching their heads. I think (based on my infinite ignorance)that I need a major air purge. Thanks again for your input.
 

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If you have that much air in your lines i would be worried about getting the air in your pump and it burning out. If there is no oil in the pump there is no lubrication. Once the air gets to your pump its like kicking your system in N. Then the oil flow stops, so does the lubrication. Why i bring this up is I would hate to see you burn your pump up using your tractor. It sounds like its in need of a purge to me also. Sorry i am no help in advising you on how to do that on your machine.
 

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Well, good thought there. I have consoled myself with the thought that the machine runs very well and that the bucket loader works 100% which I assume operates off of the same pump. Last but not least, the fact that I cannot go far with the stabilizers down and the bucket refusing to come up off of the garage floor. Talk about dragging anchor. Thanks for your thoughtful input. I think I am looking at a solution here that will make me feel really stupid. At least I hope so.
 

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curiousbob

I have the same machine and encountered a similar problem and I'm racking my brain for the solution my dealer suggested. If I remember correctly,it had something to do with the supply line from the loader valve set being pinched by something under the right fender and right beside the frame directly behind the tire. I think, but I'm not positive , that it was the parking brake linkage. That particular line tends to creep forward while you are using the tractor and throws a loop which can get caught in the works. It's a slow process, but when I'm using the backblade in the winter, I have to remember to pull the hose and coupler back to the rear of the tractor every 20 hours or so or the coupler will disconnect when it encounters some part of the linkage. Same thing happens with the backhoe installed, just takes longer.

If you have used the backhoe for 3 to 4 hours between these incidences, air in the system is not an issue. It has long since been purged. The longer I work on this, the more I'm convinced the solution is in the area initially described. It is the ONLY area that I have worked on the hydraulics except for changing out a couple of leaky hoses, and fluid and filter changes of course.

On the subject of the seat safety switch. Yes, it is a safety interlock to prevent the engine from being started without someone in the seat. The answer is -- get yourself a 2'x3' piece of the plushest carpet you can find, keep it in the house or heated garage until you're ready to sit on that block of ice they call a seat this winter. First time your butt hits the seat, you will have complete and total understanding of "Why?". I did.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bob, after reading your generous note I jacked the machine and removed the right rear tire. I again followed both the supply and return lines from the BH. In fact this time and with a view towards the future, I put different color coded electrical tape on each hose at various intervals. I checked every inch of each hose carefully for kinks, crushing, freedom of movement or any other irregularities. I found zilch. Additionally I scoured the tractor underside for any sign of trauma whatsoever and again to no avail.
This takes me back to the possibility of a floating air pocket although as with you, I have my own arguments against same. The only other thing I can imagine is that one of the QD couplers has a ball periodically stuck in its seat. I would imagine that to be on the return/suction line if it exists. I will buy one or two sets and replace them one at a time.
On the issue of the seat: thanks for the confirmation that the seat safety only prohibits starting from off machine. With that in mind I will leave the jumper in place.
Regarding cold seats: I subscribe to the rug scrap solution but my plan for the past few winters has been to haul my butt somewhere where God keeps the seats very warm.
Any other ideas and I am listening. Likewise if I have any success I will be sure to report same here. Bob
 

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Bob

One more possibility my creaky memory spit out. The 3pt hitch flow control and lock-out knob is located just below the right front corner of the seat. Make sure it is turned all the way in.

The problem you are having sounds exactly like the one that I had 2 years ago. Unfortunately, while I now remember the problem after puzzling over yours, the correct solution still escapes me. You are right about the stabilizers, gravity works. That was another of my symptoms along with the rest of yours. Should pour some of that hydraulic fluid in my left ear, maybe it would lubricate the gears a little and the old memory could spit out the correct answer. I still keep coming back to the linkages behind the wheel. Possibly a positional situation, parking brake on or off, hose slack or tight, any other pivots or levers in the neighborhood. I recall thinking at the time that I should replace the hose with steel tubing. I would check mine, but it's been in the neighbor's back yard for the last 3 days with 2 flat tires (nail in a board). All fixed now, but he had a driveway full of cars and it's now the middle of the night.

Regarding the couplers, the balls and seats are check valves to keep oil from pouring out when they are disconnected. Coupling them together forces them off their seats against their springs. Thats why it takes so much effort to hook them up. Sun warmed cylinders add to the problem which is why I keep a 1/2" bolt on the tractor so I can pop the check to bleed off a few drops of oil in order to hook them up. The balls can not return to their seats while the couplers are connected. Ya-ya stated the rest of that story.

From comments you made about God keeping the seats very warm, I surmise that you are of an age to have grandkids with busy fingers to turn knobs, or neighborhood 'assisstants' to do the same? I'm thinking of that 3pt hitch control. I'm running out of options and grabbing straws. That corner of the tractor holds the answer. All I have to do is remember it. And all you have to do is find it.

Good luck. I'm off to find a brick wall.

Bob
 

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Bob

On rereading your post, I noticed that you missed the point about the frozen seat which will not compress to activate the safety switch, thus nesesitating it being disconnected. Also I really like the colour coding trick, especially since I've done exactly that for our jam session sound equipment and never thought of it for the tractor.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bob, so this morning I got up and read your latest post. I was elated! I have had the flow speed adjustment all the way out to 80% out. I then marched upstairs to my wife and announced that someone made me feel stupid as I had anticipated would happen. I told her that as soon as I was dressed I would go out to the garage, turn the flow speed clockwise, to the stop and we would be ‘tractoring’ once again. Alas, in the final analysis, it made no difference whatsoever. I did so want to feel stupid this one time.
I am pulling my hair out. Tonight I will be studying the online hydraulic parts pictures.
Do you know for a fact that turned all the way CC that it would prohibit the BH from operating? If I understand the book completely, the speed range lever has to be on the rabbit. Any other prerequisites to the BH operation? My hydraulic level is mid-sight glass.
Yes Bob, in response to your query, I am a senior indeed that has recently developed an adversity to winter and we try to escape as much of it as we can.
Regarding my machine: as I told my friend today, I am not going to shoot myself just yet but I am going to buy the bullet.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Interesting thing I saw while examining the the hydraulic schematic: there is a retrofit, hydraulic filter, shield kit available. Apparently later tractors came with one installed. I'm on it next week.
 

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Bob
Well the brick wall didn't work so I'll try a hammer next. Since I've had the exact same problem, then I must have the solution buried somewhere in RAM. Just have to shake it loose. Don't want to try the hydraulic fluid yet, it makes an awful mess on the pillow. Left myself a post-it-note to remind myself to try to replicate the problem this afternoon if the rain lets up.

When using the backhoe my control positions are: all PTOs---off, dif lock---released, loader joystick ---centered (naturally, unless you broke a scewball), four wheel drive selector---two wheel drive, 3pt hitch---centered, drive control---neutral, 3pt hitch flow control all the way in (off). The flow control and the loader joystick are the only controls which might affect the backhoe, but 2-wheel drive and neutral will allow you to push the unit ahead with the hoe when digging a trench without climbing down, repositioning the seat so that you can drive ahead a couple of feet and then reversing the process to go back to digging (when we resolve this other issue).

Just had a thought!! Make sure the 3pt hitch control is centred and look behind the wheel to see that it actually moves the lever on the case and the shaft that goes into the case (engine off of course). Also check the relationship of the hoses to this linkage. Start her up and try the hoe.

No luck? Open up the flow control and raise the 3pt hitch. Close the flow control. NOW try it. I FEEL GOOD!!!!

Remember that 'creep' I wrote about? It caused the hose coupler to hook that linkage on my machine and move it off centre, thereby restricting and redirecting oil flow to the backhoe. THAT'S why the book says to raise the 3pt hitch and to close the flow control when you have the backhoe hooked up. Or it should, anyway. I really didn't want to use that oil.

Scewball? That's what it is called in the description on my receipt from my dealer. Otherwise known as 'Ball/scew' or 'Pivot". There are three of them under the rubber boot on the joystick for the loader. Get a spare (about $20) and keep it with the manual. I've broken 2 in 385 hours, and I put 90 hours on this puppy last winter moving snow flakes. It's a 64 mile round trip to the dealer and I don't want to break one on a Saturday evening in a snowstorm if I don't have a spare. I clear 7 driveways in the neighborhood including 2 for seniors and one for a family with handicapped kids.

Thanks for the heads up about the filter shield. I'll check it out. I was going to make one.

Happy tractoring.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK Bob! I have five grown kids and I will let you pick any two.
I got your post this morning and studied it with a highlighter in hand. Finally I trudged out to the garage with anything but optimism. I moved the 3 point hitch control to the mid position but was afraid to start with it there, figuring the hitch would move outward against the BH. So I moved it back up, started the machine and then moved the 3 pt control to its center. Immediately I could see the BH feed line charge (twitch). I knew then and there that success was upon me. Of course the BH came to life.
You are my man. I never would have guessed that the 3 pt. Control had squat to do with the BH. In fact this is how the BH book reads: “Position tractor shift lever in neutral and firmly set parking brake. Set tractor speed selection lever to high...(then goes on to discuss throttle speed settings)”.
Again, my hoses run totally clear of any impediments. I am however ordering a filter bash plate tomorrow and while at it I will order one of “screwballs” just to have on hand as per your suggestion.
I am going to try to email you directly so that you will have our email. I would like to know where you live. It seems that you are stuck in the same rain warp that VT and the northeast US are stuck in this year. Also my wife says I owe you dinner or something (I thought it would be cheaper to offer you the kids). Simple fix that it was, I can honestly say that without your input it would have been awhile before I would have dared touch the 3 pt control. I am back to digging locust stumps.
I hope this post lives on to serve others. THANKS AGAIN
Do you suppose the store will take the bullet back?
 

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Bob
I'll pass on the kids. I've got two fully grown of my own. Dinner sounds great. Get the campfire going for the hot dogs, I'll bring the sticks.

The book is sort of ambiguous. The way it is written, I interpret "shift lever" and "speed selection lever" as the same lever since it "shifts" from low "speed" to neutral to high "speed". The only other levers which control speed are the treadle pedal (can't reach it from the backhoe seat) and the throttle. The parking brake doesn't do much good with four wheels in the air. Putting the cutting edge of the loader bucket straight into the ground and lifting the front wheels into the air is all the parking brake I need for using the hoe, then I lift the back wheels up with the stabilizers. The hoe is strong enough to move the tractor even with all that iron in the ground. I've carved 3" deep furrows in a well packed gravel driveway set up like that. For a nice lawn, I put the bucket down flat with the cutting edge rotated just slighly up and short lengths of 2x8 under the stabilizers. Just run the engine a little slower to give me time to stop if I start to move the tractor with the hoe. Set the throtle speed for your comfort with the controls. I don't go much over half, slower if I have tight quarters.

We haven't had much rain this spring. I'm putting in fence posts and the ground is powder down to the hardpan (about 2 - 2 1/2 feet). We could actualy do with a little more rain and higher temperatures. The two week weather forcast averages about 9 F. below normal and has been pretty consistant at 4-11 F. below normal for the past 18 months. Global warming my frozen a**.

Have fun digging.

Bob
 
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