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I put the oregon gator blades on my husq 2254 gt and the cut is nice but it leaves a 2 inch strip in higher grass if I'm in second gear. Do I really need to slow down in thicker grass about 6 inches. I have three blades on the deck and it just seems to be doing this between the left blade and the middle blade? I would have thought the new blades would've went right through with no problem. In the lower grass there's no problem. My other blades didn't really do this but then again they weren't mulchers either. I am mowing with the mulching plug off. Any idea if this is how they cut and I just need to mow a little slower with them?
Other then this they leave a nice lookin yard and when I go over an area that the grass was discharged a little heavy they just pulvurize the clippings...pretty cool.
 

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Check that you have them on the correct way. You'd be surprised how often people put blades on upside down. And I would say yes, slow down. Make sure you didn't build up a bunch of grass clippings under the deck in that area.

You know, the grass down in Orlando is so tough and hard, you cannot walk on it. At least the native stuff is like that. If your grass is as thick and tough and hard to walk barefooted on as it is south of you, I can understand why you are having trouble. Grass that tough don't like to be cut.
 

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Were they the same size as the old ones?? Could the belt be miss adjusted from when you had the deck off? I normaly get that effect with my mowers when the drive belt or clutch starts slipping in the tall grass.
 

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You bring up a good point about the belt. It is the original belt and probably close to needing replaced. I haven't checked for build up under the deck yet but that's another good point since I'm not used to the mulching blades it'll probably stick more to the deck. They are on correctly, and cut fine except one little strip. I thought for sure with all the great reviews on the gators they would really chew it up on the first cut. I'll check the above 2 ideas and see how it does in the back.
thanks for the advice
 

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I have an exmark 60" deck, and it also leaves strips in tall
grass, i have tried gators also to no effect, it is not so bad
on thick grass, mostlly noticable on the thinner grass with
seed tips, i do a lot of jobs with tall grass and i have to
double mow sometimes, it is really frustrating because i
bought the ztr to save time over the tractor with land pride
5' cut, (brush hog), no strips with the brush hog so time
savings is negated by the double mowing..

I guess it is something we just have to live with in tall grass..

Bob..
 

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I put the oregon gator blades on my husq 2254 gt and the cut is nice but it leaves a 2 inch strip in higher grass if I'm in second gear. Do I really need to slow down in thicker grass about 6 inches. I have three blades on the deck and it just seems to be doing this between the left blade and the middle blade? I would have thought the new blades would've went right through with no problem. In the lower grass there's no problem. My other blades didn't really do this but then again they weren't mulchers either. I am mowing with the mulching plug off. Any idea if this is how they cut and I just need to mow a little slower with them?
Other then this they leave a nice lookin yard and when I go over an area that the grass was discharged a little heavy they just pulvurize the clippings...pretty cool.
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Try mowing until everything gets warmed up to normal operating temp., then shut it down and feel of each of the three pulleys to see if you can detect any temperature difference.
 

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It sounds like your deck is out of alignment or the tractor has a bit of a dog-walk to it. Check that the tractor drives true with no wheel alignment issues and that you didn't bend the deck hangers.
 

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I also suggest you check the sharpness and balance of the new blades. I found that on the new gators I put on my mower there was such a thick layer of paint on the blade edge they felt dull. A few passes of a wire wheel took of the paint and got them down to the sharp edge on the front.

I have also seen a few post that some of the new blades were out of balance and they needed to grind a little off the backside of some sets to get them to balance out.
 

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have 54" front deck jd725,and use 3 sets of gators,swapping them out every 25 hrs.get same results you describe with all 3 sets.wish i knew the answer.slowing down sucks.
 

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Based on multiple people seeing this same issue I would say that rules out an adjustment issue (unless all these people have adjustment issues which would seem quite a coincidence).

I would guess it's an airflow issue. Gators push the air around in a different pattern than standard or hi lift blades. For shorter grass this probably doesn't make much difference since it wants to stand erect, but in higher, heavier grass the different airflow might actually be blowing the grass flat in some places instead of lifting it into the path of the blades.

If slowing down helps, then I would say airflow is the likely culprit (misaligned steering or bent deck hangers would probably not produce different effects at different ground speeds). You say you're mowing without the mulching plug... Have you tried it with the plug in? Gators are mulchers so I would think they are designed expecting a closed deck.

FYI my gator blades *almost* touch eachother on my deck. Maybe 1/16" or less between blade tips. If yours have a bigger gap between them this might let tall stiff grass through but probably only in gradual turns so I doubt that's the issue.

Edit: one other thought is are you running at the manufacturer-recommended RPM? Since the gators are already at a disadvantage for ability to lift grass blades up, if you're running at below max RPM on the deck that's a double whammy. Edit2: looks like Ingersoll444 beat me to this one.. didn't notice his reply at first.
 

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I use them on my Craftsman 42" deck and run wide open no problem and Ive always used the on the last two moweres with no problem even got them on a wheel horse no problem there eigthor
 

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One crucial thing about mounting Gator blades is TIGHTNESS and POWDER COAT PAINT! You can crank them new blades tight as you want but when the powder coat under the washers and spindle surface breaks down the blade can SLIP in tough conditions. There should be a notice on all powder coated blades to remove all paint from the spindle/bolt washer contact surface before mounting.

Might not be the problem here, but it sounds to me like one or more blades is "clutching" and slipping under heavy conditions. Buzz off that paint on both sides of the mounting surfaces and try it again..
 

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One crucial thing about mounting Gator blades is TIGHTNESS and POWDER COAT PAINT! You can crank them new blades tight as you want but when the powder coat under the washers and spindle surface breaks down the blade can SLIP in tough conditions. There should be a notice on all powder coated blades to remove all paint from the spindle/bolt washer contact surface before mounting.

Might not be the problem here, but it sounds to me like one or more blades is "clutching" and slipping under heavy conditions. Buzz off that paint on both sides of the mounting surfaces and try it again..
Good tip there HH. Mine had a nice "powercoat washer" under them the first time I took them off. The Case/Ingersoll decks use two bolts per blade, so I did not get any slipping, but I could see how it could have effected a single bolt blade.
 

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The Case/Ingersoll decks use two bolts per blade, so I did not get any slipping, but I could see how it could have effected a single bolt blade.
Just another example of Case/Ingersoll superiority. :hide: :bannana:

MU will come to regret trying to live the "Simple" life. :sidelaugh
 

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The Case/Ingersoll decks use two bolts per blade, so I did not get any slipping, but I could see how it could have effected a single bolt blade.
In my case my spindles have the 6-pt star shoulder (single hole) so no slipping either. But I did remove the paint from my gator blades in the mounting area (both sides) just in case, based on HH's same suggestion to me over in another thread on a related topic. Even if the blade doesn't slip, that doesn't mean the nut can't work loose...
 

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I haven't read any of the replies yet. But from my experiences the Gator blades have a lot less "lift" or "vacuum" effect to pull the grass straight up vertical when mowing. The grass clippings coming out of the mower deck when using those blades seem to be about 1/2 the length or less compared to regular blades. So if your not in a hurry and hate looking at clippings on the lawn they are perfect for you. I am not a huge fan of them.
 

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Gator blades are designed for discharging. They do create differnt airflow under the deck. I think that trying to mow 6 inches of grass in one pass is going to create a lot of work under that deck for those blades to cut and then process the grass by re-cutting it and sending it away back to the grass. By slowing doen, you are giving the blades time to do their work. I would suggest that you raise the deck, mow the lawn, then lower the deck and mow the lawn again. Plus your wheels may be pressing down the grass too. I think you have enough power too. I just yanked off my Gator Mulcher Magnums, which are supposed to have a higher lift then the standard gators, and I installed my regular high-lift blades, which seem to give me a better cut. Gators are great when mowing fields of high grass because they chew up the grass better and after several passes over an area there are less clumps.
 
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