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Discussion Starter #1
i have a Briggs and Stratton 15.5 engine model number 28n707 type 12101. it has been sitting for years, took carb off and cleaned. float seemed to be good.. i added gas to engine and pulled spark plug to change it and gas started pouring out of hole.. called local repair shop they advised needs new carb ($156.00).. just wondering why carb rebuilt kit wont work and what is going wrong in carb to allow fuel to pass right through..
 

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Is the float tight,will it float in water,if not replace it.is the needle sticking in the seat even though float moves.A good cleaning and kit should fix for less than dealer price.
 

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Sounds like the float needle is sticking in the down position, letting fuel overflow up into the jet, and flood the engine.

You can try a new needle and seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks ill check that.. i did notice that the float needle would not come out..i say it is stuck open.. i take it back apart and see about getting that needle out...it should just pull straigt out once i get the float pin out, right???
 

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It could have a small crumb of something stuck in there. Pull it out and inspect it. Then clean it all again, it really doesn't take much to stick the needle valve open..:fing32:

Oh, then put in a fuel shutoff so the motor does not have the "chance" to hydrolock again, and to save you some money on oil changes .

Lucky you had the plug out to let the gas just pour through the intake to the plug hole.
 

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I'd change the oil in that engine and be sure there is no gas left in the cylinder before trying to start it.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone. havnt thought of changing oil, so i guess thats why i refer to the professionals.. going to take apart in the morning will let you all know the out come. thanks again for the promptness from everyone..
 

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Thanks everyone. havnt thought of changing oil, so i guess thats why i refer to the professionals.. going to take apart in the morning will let you all know the out come. thanks again for the promptness from everyone..
The reasoning behind changing the oil is because if the gas made it to the cylinder you are liable to have a full gas tank of gas that managed to seep past the piston and into the crankcase oil. You end up with way too much oil that is too diluted to lubricate anything and the possibility of the crankcase exploding.
 

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Using a set of torch tip cleaners really does the job for small jets and channels in a carb. I cleaned many a jet out with a little piece of crud stuck in it that chemicals wouldnt get out.

Just a thought.
 

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Rokie, let us know how it goes, and thanks Mike and Sryrp for being more clear on changing that oil.

Just for the sake of sharing, my pops had a Briggs that did something very similar as yours did, pretty common ( as I later found out) on engines with a gravity feed gas tank. My first thought was "Hmmm, I know I didn't put an extra quart or so of oil in that crankcase..."

After doing the carb rebuild ( twice ) and adding a fuel shutoff, oil changes , it was ( and still is) fine a year or so later.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well i guess im going to need a new float needle.. took it out and cleaned the rubber tip seem a little loose... put back together and gas still pouring out of carb...looking for parts online right now... briggs website showing two different numbers for needles with two different prices how do i know which one i need...or is one just better than the other??
 

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You need the numbers on the engine.Can you get parts locally to you,easier to compare parts.are you changing the seat to match the needle.
 

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repair shop told me changing the needle won't stop the flooding, you have to do seat as well. Briggs may show 2 different ones , one for gravity fed and one for pump fed.
 

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If your needle has a rubber tip, dont worry about the seat, just swab it with a Q-Tip til its clean and put in a new needle.

If its a metal tipped needle, then it has a rubber seat...replace both.
 

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Carb jets should only be cleaned with soft wire, such as from stranded copper wire, or fine wire from a tag. The jets are very soft, and are damaged easily, ruining the air/fuel ratio.
I use brake cleaner aerosol, putting the tube in each passage and blowing it out. The stuff goes everywhere, so safety glasses are a must! This way, you know each passage is clean when the cleaner passes through.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
got new float needle, new fuel filter, new sparkplug and added fuel shutoff valve. tried to start it and it fired then died and now nothing...any suggestions??
and happens when the electrical device on bottom of float bowl fails (sorry dont know proper name) will the engine just not start or just backfire when turning off??
 

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The goodie on the bottom of the float bowl is an anti-afterfire solenoid. When it is de-energized, it shuts the fuel flow off to the main jet only, which prevents after-firing when you shut down. It does not stop the fuel flow into the carb itself. When it goes bad, or doesn't get energized, the engine will not run. You should hear it click when you turn the key on and off. If you don't hear it, check for voltage going to it, and make sure the carb/engine is grounded. If you have voltage, remove the solenoid, ground it, and apply voltage (12vdc), and it should retract. You may have to help it get started, but it should pull itself in. If not, it's stuck or dead. You can clip the tip off, or replace the solenoid with a bolt.
You may not be getting fuel past the needle now. I'd suspect that first, since that is the last work done before the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i suspect that im probably getting crud from the tank what would be a good way to flush the tank??
 
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