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Discussion Starter #1
Some thoughts or comments?
Have you transported your lawn or garden tractor in your pick up truck?
If so, how did you get it up into the bed?
What type of ramps did you use?
Did your deck hang up on the tailgate?
Other issues with this method of transporting lawn or garden tractor?
 

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I have done it frequently..I got the ramps at TSC for about 129 dollars with the deck off it minimizes the possibility of the deck hanging up....but you can also park on a slope ...with truck at a lower point than the tractor...or if you are in an area with curbs ...back the truck up to the curb and drive the tractor on from the lawn...you are decreasing the severity of that angle and making it easier to get the tractor onto the truck....if the deal involves too much to fit into the back of the truck I just rent a 5 x 9 U-Haul if you pick up and drop off at same location it is less than $30 with insurance...I have picked stuff up far away and rented a U-Haul when I got there and then dropped off locally...that is about $80...but it is worth it...that size trailer has a ramp that serves as rear gate too My truck has the 51/2 foot bed....so Lawn Tractors usually fit in...I have had to leave tail gate open and strap everything down with GTs...anything with a loader I needed the trailer...and the bucket usually sits on top of that rear gate
 

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I welded a two inch receiver hitch on the back of my 265 so I could pull my Vermeer 630 A stump grinder around yards I couldn’t get the truck in.I used a set of arched aluminum ramps and would put the tractor on the truck then tow the stump grinder to the job. I didn’t like the arched ramps, they felt unstabel at the top. I figured I had a 48” deck and a sheet of plywood would slide between the wheel wells, so I was good to go. Wrong. The cut is 48”, the deck wouldn’t fit. So I had to build a platform between the wheel wells so I could drive on. This was a 95 GMC Sonoma, like an S10. What size truck and what deck are you looking at? For the occasional user ramps are ok, but then again, the occasional user is less likely to get them set perfect. Lots of YouTube videos of tractors and 4X4’s falling off ramps. I have an eight foot dump trailer I bought 15 years ago, and a 2018, F150 with the 2.7 twin turbo. I get 20-21 miles per gallon without the trailer, and it drops to 12 with the trailer. I wouldn’t dream of using ramps, and I still have them, to save the gas mileage. I just take the trailer. Drop the five foot drive on tailgate and pull on in ten seconds, lots of tie downs, no shakey ramps. Your truck will squat when you pull on, I don’t like that movement. If it’s a once or twice a year thing, and that’s all you have, that’s all you have. If you are going to mess with buying and selling, get one of the Tractor Supply expanded metal trailers, the safety factor is worth the $900. And, you can pull that trailer around your yard with a tractor and two inch ball. I welded the two inch receiver hitch on my 265 so I could raise the ball. My X540 came with a heavey plate bolted to the back to pull a Cyclone leaf vac. That plate has a hole a ball will bolt to that does not interfere with the vac and is high enough none of my trailers drag.
 

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The tractors I own/use/transport, won't fit in the bed of my truck. That, and I drive a 98 Dodge Ram 2500, so, the load height is pretty high, so the ramps would have to be quite long to have any reasonable kind of angle..... I have one of the TSC trailers. I MUCH prefer using that, as opposed to trying to put anything in the bed. If you plan on hauling something on a regular basis. Buy a trailer. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rarefish, I have a Ram1500 and the only mower I planned to haul in it is my old Craftsman with a 46 inch deck. Careful measurement shows it will just fit between the wheel wells with the hinged plastic grass chute raised up. I will have to go forward in, and leave the rear tires on the tailgate in its down position. My ramps are flat 6 ft steel, so my plan was to find a low spot in the yard for the truck rear tires to sit in and maybe set the down side ramps on top of a 6x6x8 timber to reduce the angle up top. I was even wondering about digging a couple of temporary "ditches" maybe 8 inches deep for the truck's rear tires to drop into, to lower the tailgate some. I learned a long time ago that the most important thing is the use of tie down straps, both for holding ramps stable, (yes, I've seen the YouTube videos too) and for securing the load. Just wondering if anyone had any special tricks for this type of tractor hauling.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HeyYou,
Yep, I've considered a trailer but this might be only a once or twice haul. I rented a UHaul as mentioned by Mark, to pick up my X500 from the dealer and that was as easy as it gets. If I get some extra bucks, there is probably a trailer in my future but for now, I think I will employ the ramps I have combined with finding a low spot for the truck tires and raising the ramp ends as much as possible, unless someone has more tricks. I've got a couple more weeks before this haul so thought I'd ask for ideas.
 

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I hauled my 1000lb Cub 3240 with 44" deck in my 2017 Tacoma 6.5ft bed.

I didnt trust the gate to take the weight so I removed it to load and unload. Ramps are flat and I had no problems nosing over the top. Drove it up on steel auto ramps in the bed to let me leave the deck on and drive it over the top of the wheelwell arches.

Let the air out of the rear tires to let me close the tailgate while smashing them in. Tie down straps to secure it.
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That's what I did too. Had to drive three hours to pick up my "New to me" tractor, and it wouldn't fit on my trailer, so, I just rented one. Less than 30 bucks. If it's only occasional use, renting is definitely the better option.
 

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I have a 2008 150XLT 4x4 with the 6.5 foot bed that I use occasionally to transport mowers I get. Now I did mount a plate in the rear middle of the truck to mount a winch as usually the mowers don't work and have to be winched up. Did make up a set of ramps, at first, which although heavy had no bend to them. Used PT 2x8x10 with 2x4x8 screwed & glued lengthwise under and a 1x6x8 on the sides. The transition plate was from HF. Covered everything except the plate with rustoleum deck restore to provide a non-slip surface.
Also have a HF tri-fold ramp where I placed ¼ inch plywood screwed into the two edge panels that is painted and had 3m non-slip tape glued & stapled in a diagonal pattern for smaller stuff like tillers.
 

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I wore for renting the trailer unless you need to move more than a couple times a year or have other uses for the trailer. The trailer you will be willing to purchase will not be as good as the one from U-Haul and then you have to license, maintain, and store the trailer. Those probably make up for the inconvenience of having to pick up the trailer. But, if you use the trailer once a month, buy a nice one probably makes more sense, especially if you have a place to store it when you are not using it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Steve, thanks, that idea of the steel ramps in the bed to raise the front and "tuck in" the rear, I might try that.
Flaken, I thought about non skid, but the ramps I have are made with expanded steel plate on the surface, so it grips pretty well. My current truck is leased so any alterations are out of the question. Apparently these lease companies think no one really USES their trucks. I do, and have had to pay for "damages" that aren't really damages, but that's another story. When this one is up, I think I'm going to go back to buying used.

Ideally, a decent 6x10 trailer will simply appear in my driveway over night, but barring that, I already have the truck, ramps, and tie downs. Just a matter of combining all for a successful haul.

Thanks!!
 

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Alien5044, you do what you have to do, just as I. Just barely above poverty level, so I have to make stuff cheap. That deck restore works great especially when wet, which happens sometimes around here. I've had all 800 pounds of a Cub Gt2544 on it with no bending.
 

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Arched ramps prevent the deck from bottoming out when it reaches the end of the truck bed..
I made my own ramps out of some steel decking used in metal buildings for an upper floor,I cut the sides and bent them so they had two angles instead of being flat,and welded them back up and added angle iron to reinforce the area..

Ramps can be scary though,I have had a few tractors get almost all the way up into the truck bed and the deck dragged on it,which make the back tire spin and spit the ramp out,allowing the tractor to crash,with me on it...one that did that,broke the transaxle right in two,and worst of all,it was not MY tractor,it was one I was repairing for someone..(luckily I had a transaxle the same as that one I knew was good,but had to put it in for free,then explain what happened,the fender was also damaged and I had none to replace it with)..

I was lucky the tractors didn't land on top of me or bust my legs or arms..I added angle iron to the end of the ramp so it could be placed in between the tail gate and bed,to prevent the ramp from being "spit out" again..

In my own yard,I have a retaining wall almost the same height as my truck bed,and I can back up to it and drive a tractor right into the bed from the lawn...getting it OFF at another location where nothing exists like this,nor a ditch you could back down into,is another problem,your stuck using ramps..

When I was picking up "dead" tractors people were giving away,or ones I was going to fix for someone,I put a crane on my truck and use a lifting strap to lift the tractor up,so I can swing it into the bed..
This too can be tricky,you must fine the point to pick it up from where it'll be balanced and not let one end droop,and when you go to swing it into the bed you must be careful,600+ lbs of tractor can easily swing in the opposite direction you wanted it to go in,and pin you between it and the truck..but I prefer having the tractor in the truck,I do not like towing trailers and don't have one..
I'm not good at backing up a trailer and you cant see whats going on behind you ,people who cut you off when pulling out of a side street often don't see your trailer too,and I see a lot of them involved in accidents around here..

The crane is also very handy for picking up other heavy items like engines,and it works great to hoist up a tractor so you can safely work under it ,with a post to prop it up as a safety..
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When I first got my zero turn, I got curved steel folding ramp, and manually lifted the deck (mine had a foot lever to do this) when going on/off. It was semi-dangerous, as it's easy to not go exactly straight and then overcompensate and it turns into a train wreck. I was lucky several times to not get injured. I quickly saved up some money to get a trailer for it, much better.
 

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The ramp kicking out story makes me happy to have bought my tri-fold. With it strapped to the truck it ain't going nowhere.
 

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I don't transport anything Bigger Than a Medium Garden tractor(basically Deere X590/ Cub Cadet XT3 size) In My Full size Titan XD Pick Up and I use these Ramps MAD-RAMPS - MAD-RAMPS with Pivot stops and Ramp extensions. Don't ever half to worry about the Ramps falling off as there attached to You Truck Hitch There Perfect ramps for Garden Tractors and fold Out of the way for Transport but stay connected The Pivot stops allow your to drive the Tractor all the way in the bed. anything Bigger Like a X700 series I use a trailer for (y)
Screenshot_2020-06-28 Home - MAD-RAMPS - Truck Bed Extender for ATV, UTV and Snowmobile.png
Screenshot_2020-06-28 MAD-RAMPS Pivot Stops - ATV Loading Solutions.png
 

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...just to follow up, if I had thought of it, I would have fabbed up a folding ramp setup that would go in place of the tailgate, so it's attached to the truck and you just raise/lower it by hand as needed. I made a pair of ramps that I could mount on my current truck (a '04 Sierra 3500 flatbed), and it is SO much better than using regular ramps (much safer and faster to deploy).
 
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