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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i have a 917.255914 GT 18 44" tractor the ammeter is broken does anyone have an original ammeter that the tractor came with i think the part number is 121111x the replacement is totally different the original has the wire just wrapped around the gauge and the replacement has terminals do i cut the wire havent ordered the new yet as i would like to find an original
THANKS!!!!
 

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The voice of reason !
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Whoa there young man !

Dont cut a thing until you post some pictures most of the ammeters just have the wire slip thru a metal holder on the back so you don't need to cut anything.

When you said its broke what is the gauge, the glass or the mount, Ive had and seen some that were thought to be broken and once I got inside it was just fouled with dirt and spiderwebs once it was cleaned up they worked perfectly.
 

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The Magnificent
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Ron has a good point - the thing may just be dirty.

Also you can retrofit many modern ammeters with a home made shunt across the two terminals, then wrap the charge wire around your new shunt. 3 or so turns is normally adequate.

A picture of your original ammeter would be helpful.
 

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. . .home made shunt across the two terminals, then wrap the charge wire around your new shunt. 3 or so turns is normally adequate. . .
I'm not sure I understand the concept of wrapping the charge wire around the shunt. Is that a means of connecting the two or is that supposed to be inductive coupling?

Please explain. Thanks!
 

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The voice of reason !
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If you can post a some pictures front and back we can probably help you better, D-Dogg is a master with this stuff I'm sure he can come up with some fix for you.

But I will post a few pictures of two common types of ammeters used on the low to mid range LT/GT's

The larger one with the metal clip is a Prime brand ammeter, the other is Faria Corp the smaller of the two.

Both work on inductive principle i.e. current flowing thru the wire causes the needle which has a magnet to move the direction depends on whether it's charging or discharging.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok mine or whats left of it looks like the Farina type, the sears part number is 121111x and this is what sears sent me for a replacement part number 122822x notice there are 2 terminals on the back where mine just had the wire wrapped around in a loop so i would really like an original one if anyone has one to sell
 

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The voice of reason !
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ok mine or whats left of it looks like the Farina type, the sears part number is 121111x and this is what sears sent me for a replacement part number 122822x notice there are 2 terminals on the back where mine just had the wire wrapped around in a loop so i would really like an original one if anyone has one to sell
Actually It looks more similar the the Prime brand one, whats wrong with yours?

The face display really doesn't matter but wrapping the wire around it is the standard for most of the ones I've seen.

If Sears has the proper one in stock you may want to go that way so you know it's correct and from what I can gather they aren't to expensive.

Did they tell you if it was in stock and how much ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the meter in the picture i posted is the replacement meter, the one my tractor has is the farina brand, mine i have is only the case, the needle and face are gone i ordered the replacement and they sent me the one i pictured notice it has 2 terminals on the back my original meter has the wire wrapped around it just like you showed in the farina brand
 

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The voice of reason !
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The replacement one you got does it have quick connect terminals or are they screw type ?
 

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The voice of reason !
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Well like D-Dogg said you can make your own shunt or cut the wire and put connectors on, either way it will work.
 

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I am bringing up an old post to thank the poster about looping the wires to make the ammeter work. I have a 1995 Murray with an ammeter that has never worked. I searched and found your post and then followed the procedure of making about 3 loops through the metal tube at the rear of the meter. I also had to cut the wire and splice in an additional foot of wire. Now my ammeter works just fine. Originally there were no loops, the wire just ran through the tube once. That is how it came from the factory.

It has no affect on how the mower runs, but it always bothered me why it did not work. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
was wondering if anyone has the aluminum button that is on the lift lever i have a plastic replacement but really would like one of the aluminum ones please let me know
 
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