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Discussion Starter #1
After almost 8 years using G3 Gator Blades (4 years on the last set), I purchased a new set of G5 Gator Blades to replace them. The G3 blades were actually off already, as I swapped them with a set of new Cub Cadet high-lift blades last fall for bagging & leaf clean up and never took them off. The Cub high-lift blades bag a little better than the Gators, although the G3 Gators are not bad at bagging. As the G3 blades gave a better cut than either the standard or high lift Cub Cadet blades, I was very pleased with them overall.

The G5 Gators are advertised as a step up from the G3 blades, and they are different in a number of ways. As you can see from the picture below, the G5 blade is quite a bit wider than the G3, making them even more rigid than the already strong G3 blade. There is one less cutting tooth (providing more lift) and a hardened blade edge for longer life.

And they work, with the G5 blades getting the nod over the already nice cutting G3 blades for lawn appearance. The lawn cut looks ever flatter and more uniform than either of the other blades. This is especially impressive considering grass that is longer and more moist than usual this spring. I can’t say if they mulch better or not, as I don’t use mulching attachments and the throw of the clippings seem about the same. Comparison of bagging performance will have to wait until this fall, as I usually don’t bag over the summer.

After multiple mowing’s, I can definitely recommend the G5 Gators, at least on a Cub Cadet 50” deck. Cheers!
 

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I take it you don't have sandy soil like I do. I'm on my 3rd set of OEM high lift blades in just over 100 hrs. Getting about 45 hrs per set. 4 yrs per set is awsome!!!
 

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I agree with Mudyapster, the Gators last about a year before the serrated "wings" are almost completely gone. Other standard blades last roughly 6 months. We do mow year round down here, even around once a month in the winter.
 

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I take it you don't have sandy soil like I do. I'm on my 3rd set of OEM high lift blades in just over 100 hrs. Getting about 45 hrs per set. 4 yrs per set is awsome!!!
you should be cutting only the top 1/3 of the blades of grass, that shouldnt be lifting that much soil?....my neighbor is a groundskeeper on a golf course, they brought in a lot of sandy soils to help in quick drainage, he said they have no problem with wearing out blades?
 

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I take it you don't have sandy soil like I do. I'm on my 3rd set of OEM high lift blades in just over 100 hrs. Getting about 45 hrs per set. 4 yrs per set is awsome!!!
you should be cutting only the top 1/3 of the blades of grass, that shouldnt be lifting that much soil?....my neighbor is a groundskeeper on a golf course, they brought in a lot of sandy soils to help in quick drainage, he said they have no problem with wearing out blades?
I mow on setting #5 now and #6 is max height. In the cooler months I bring it down to #3 so it sucks more sand during the cool months.
 

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you should be cutting only the top 1/3 of the blades of grass, that shouldnt be lifting that much soil?....my neighbor is a groundskeeper on a golf course, they brought in a lot of sandy soils to help in quick drainage, he said they have no problem with wearing out blades?
You should ask your groundskeeper friend if they use tractors similar to what we are using with the rotary blade(s) on the greens and fairways or if they use more specialized equipment like reel mowers. That makes a huge difference.

The soils and conditions are much different in the southern states than the northern ones. Top dressing with a little bit of sand is a far cry from the sandy soils we have down here. Just moving a rotary blade mower over the top of the grass without even cutting anything brings up a huge amount of dust and sand.
 

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Down here in SC, I don't cut grass...it is all weeds and dirt. And then throw in all the fire ant mounds you run over every time, the blades don't stand a chance. I don't even bother trying to sharpen, just easier to replace. I have tried cutting at a higher deck setting, but I still end up in a cloud of dust.

I have wanted to try some Gator blades, but apparently they don't make any to fit the 54" XT2 fab deck. I've looked all over, on the Oregon site, parts stores, etc. with no luck. If I am wrong, please let me know. I would love to try some and see if I can get more use from them than the Cub blades.
 

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BOWHS....

"I would love to try some and see if I can get more use from them than the Cub blades."....I wouldnt think so, lol more cutting edges would just wear faster, sounds like you need a minesweeper with a failing attachachement...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No sand on my property, my problem is bare ground. On two sides of my property I have woods, with the long side also sloping from one end to the other, probably 15-16' end to end. The critters follow along the wood line (mostly deer & turkeys but others as well) on the grass side and trample it down. This is also a natural path for rainwater and that does the rest, with a lot of the erosion done by the very heavy spring melt this year. I have hauled in soil and re-seeded twice in the 17 years we have been here and now it needs to be done again.

So I have a good bit of bare ground, which when mixed with the moisture in the grass coats the deck with a dirt coating that will only come off with heavy scraping. Wet conditions are the easiest, as the dirt is moist and does not get sucked up with the grass. Normal conditions are actually not good, as the ground is dry and there is always enough moisture to paste the soil to the deck, unless the grass is dead.

So I am looking around for ideas on how to put in some natural breaks along this slope, for both water and animal control. It would be nice to knock down my deck cleaning time.
 

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pfreiburger: That is going to take erosion control methods. Use a burlap or jute sheet and staple that to the ground. Then a layer of soil and then another layer of the sheet stapled down and a layer of soil. Mix grass seed with the soil layers and use some flat rocks to disrupt the water flow.

https://www.amazon.com/Mutual-17685-Blanket-Length-Width/dp/B00C1S8RHW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=J4FBI8Y69F2K&keywords=burlap+erosion+control+blanket&qid=1560858847&s=gateway&sprefix=burlap+eros,aps,350&sr=8-4

BowHS: You could try the Cub Cadet mulching blades that they use on another older 54 inch fabricated deck, 742-0677. They are ⅛ inch shorter although quite similar to the Gator blades in design.

https://www.amazon.com/MTD-Cub-Cadet-742-0677-942-0677/dp/B06Y1W2HJT/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?crid=24LWEAHTB2ARG&keywords=cub+cadet+54+inch+fabricated+deck+mulching+kit&qid=1560859900&s=gateway&sprefix=cub+cadet+54+inch+deck+mulch,aps,407&sr=8-1-fkmr2
 

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RAY2: Lol, that might work.

FLAKEN: Thanks for the info and link. But I'd be afraid I'd have to go over everything twice to eliminate the strips left due to the blades being 1/8 inch shorter.
 
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