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Proud Wheel Horse Owner
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3,212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a 1986/87 180 a few weeks ago and have been bringing it back to life. I love this silly little thing! Actually logged 6hrs on.....4 of those, non-stop.....mowing a really [email protected] field area inside a big paved parking lot.

Last on the list of "needs" is a new PTO. I was putting it off since they're $180ish on ebay and $50-$80 more than that from other sources. Found out it's a Warner 5215-9 which has been superceded to a 5215-34. It's got a 1-1/8" inside diameter, where most versions are only 1".

Decided I'd give repairing it a try. Took it apart and cleaned and repacked the bearing on the pulley, and then removed and replaced the bearing (NACHI 6007DS $32) in the base.

Now, we'll see if it holds up.
 

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1,908 Posts
Nice job refurbishing your 180. Keep us informed with how the PTO repair holds up.
 

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Proud Wheel Horse Owner
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3,212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll update if I do more mowing with it. It logged all 6hrs with the bad bearing and the dry rough bearing....which kinda blew my mind.....so hopefully this will be a nice little save.

I've replaced that headlight assembly, the seat, and had the rear fender pan powder coated because it was peeling paint like crazy. I put back the original decals on the area below the seat and I've got a leaping deer decal and "John Deere" decal coming for the back of the seat. Also, a new deck chute is coming.

Love the clutch pedal. Really made the mowing I was doing much easier because I was able to creep around as needed, and bounce between 1st and Reverse quickly.
 

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Proud Wheel Horse Owner
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3,212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Did you take pictures of the PTO rebuilt.?
Nice 180 BTW. :fing32:
No, because it was pretty straightforward.

-Remove the 3 nuts and tap the assembly apart.
-Use a die grinder to grind the pressed tabs off the housing so the bearing can be pressed or pounded out.
-Press or pound in a new bearing. Use Loctite 290 if there's concern the bearing might migrate back out. My bearing fit extremely tight, so I didn't loctite it.
-Slide the assemblies back together putting the springs on the 3 studs first.
-Tighten the 3 nuts to the same position they were in or slightly tighter to compensate for wear between the clutch plate faces.
-Reinstall

To clean and regrease a sealed bearing (if you think it's not actually damaged), use a dental pick tool to pick the outer edge of the grease seal and then lift the seal off. This won't damage the seal. Clean the bearing with whatever solvent you like......WD-40, Carb Cleaner, etc. Blast out with compressed air. Give it a shot of spray lube of some sort, even WD-40 is okay for this, and then test spin. If you like how it feels, wipe some bearing grease down into it, roll it a bunch to work the grease in, wipe away the excess, and press the seal back in.
 

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199 Posts
i will tell you one thing the old school smaller LT's are tanks . i have a 111 that i got as a free bee plowed snow a few times with it and also use a snow blower on it as well ...i just cant believe how powerful it is for a 11hp tractor :trink39:



BTW find yourself a snow blower .....:thThumbsU
 

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Proud Wheel Horse Owner
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3,212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's what I thought when mowing with it the other day.....it was a tank. Love the 15hp Kawasaki, that thing is all torque. I was mowing stuff that have killed most other engines, this thing barely hit the governor most of the time.

Paid $100 for it. It'd been on a horse ranch all it's life and was just sorry looking. But I knew that being a JD, it had a heart of gold. It had a ton of little problems. I just picked away at the laundry list and bam, it became a tractor again. Heck, the plastic hood even polished up, and since that photo was taken I've touched up all of the chips so they are hardly visible.
 
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